How do I adjust the triggering position of the automatic switch off and tone arm return on a Harksound (by CEC) HS 210 Semi Automatic turntable?

check drive belt

Inside the turntable, find the point where the base of the tone arm goes through the top and inside. There is often an adjustment that controls the range of the tonearm. If it is an older TT, it likely got out of alignment. Adjust it so the arm moves freely, from the tonearm rest, to the end of the record, and picks up where it should (if it's semi-automatic at least). Best to use an old record you don't mind scratching as you do the adjustments. Every time it sticks you are damaging your records slightly.

It is due to fault with its timing. A mechanical fault. Contact any service technician. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

The adjustment for auto return position is normally at the tone arm base on the left side under a rubber grommet. Use a flat blade screw driver to move adjustment screw, then test. Keep fine tuning until arm lifts at desired position. Cheers John. Stylus City NZ

It sounds like there might be an issue with your turntable. The behavior you described suggests that there could be a problem with the power supply, the motor, or some other component. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:

1. Power Supply:
   • MakSsure the power supply is working properly. Check the power cable and the outlet.
   • If the turntable has a power switch, ensure it is in the correct position.
2. Belt or Drive System:
   • If your turntable has a belt drive, check if the belt is properly placed and not damaged. If it's a direct-drive turntable, ensure there are no issues with the motor.
3. Auto-Stop Feature:
   • Some turntables have an auto-stop feature that turns off the motor after a set amount of time. Check the user manual to see if your turntable has this feature and how to adjust or disable it.
4. Platter Alignment:
   • Make sure the platter is properly seated on the spindle. If it's misaligned, it could trigger an automatic shut-off.
5. Automatic Tonearm Return:
   • If the tonearm is moving over and causing the turntable to shut off, there might be an issue with the automatic tonearm return mechanism. Check if there's any obstruction in the tonearm's path.
6. Internal Components:
   • If the issue persists, there could be a problem with internal components such as the motor or electronics. In this case, it might be best to contact the manufacturer's customer support or seek professional assistance.

At the end of play, the tone arm moves a small piece into the revolving gear that operates the shutoff process. If the tone arm remains in the completely played position, this mechanical connection is not working.

Hi, with the tone arm sitting on its mount rotate the platter manually approx. 12 times. That should reset all the auto functions. Cheers john.

Most modern day turntables are semi-automatic. You move the tonearm from the rest post
over to the record and the platter will start turning. There is a small microswitch inside
either below the arm base or near. There should be a flat bar connected to the base of the arm
and this will actuate the microswitch. The switch is wired in series to the rotation motor.

Solution: 1. Obviously verify the belt is on. Take off the rubber mat and rotate the platter.
The rotation motor is on the left and it has a small brass spindle. The belt should
be visable through the holes in the platter. If not pull the platter gently up, there will
be some resistance. The belt wraps around a smaller inner ring on the underside
of the platter and the rotation motor spindle. If it is degraded it will be stuck to the
platter or fall apart. Generally there 3 common sizes. ( 21.4 / 23.6 / 25 inch) they
readily available on E-Bay, search term "turntable belt".
2. Obviously check power.
3. Check the microswitch, it should "click", verify with ohm meter.
4. Some turntables have a "cut" or stop function. The arm must return first to rest before
starting again, again the microswitch is the trigger.

This is a tough one. There is usually a series of gears that function in unison to make all the magic happens. These gears are usually set in motion by a smaller belt located inside the unit. If this belt has come off or is damaged, your unit will not work. Or, if the gears have cracked, or dried up, same issue.

Suggest taking it to a service center for repair.


- OPTiC
Turntable Technician
www.1200s.com

This very much depends on the type (and vintage) of the
turntable.

Very old turntables used a system of mechanical CAMs,
slaved to the main plater. Once engaged (usually through
a hinged/retracted gear-tooth), the platter would spin the cam,
which in turn would lift the tone arm, move it back home,
shut off the power and disengage itself after one complete
revolution.

This system could be mechanically triggered with the power off,
just by swinging the tone arm towards the center, and spinning
the platter manually by hand. To fix it you had to make internal
mechanical adjustments, or replace worn out levers, wheels,
bearings, springs, etc...

A more modern turntable will use electrical sensors,
such as a micro-switch under the tonearm gimbals,
which is triggered as the tonearm swings towards the center.
A second switch is coupled to the stop/ return button.

Once the mech. is triggered, it can derive its power from the
plater (as before) or use a separate servo motor to lift
and return the tone-arm. The viscously damped cueing
mechanism can also be involved in lifting the arm during
the return cycle.

At the hi-tech extreme, a microprocessor can control the
whole works through the use of selenoids and stepping
motors with optical or magnetic sensors to trigger it,
position it and disengage it.

0) Note:
During all testing, remove the record and cover the
stylus with its protective gate to prevent damage.

If the stylus slides out of the cartridge, like it did on the
Shure cartridges, remove the stylus gently and put it in
a safe place to avoid damaging it. You do NOT want to
ever drop the stylus on the spinning rubber platter surface.

But leave the main head and cartridge in place for normal
tone-arm balance.

Turn off your amplifier, or turn down the volume to zero, to
prevent damage to your ears and the speakers if the needle
does fall when it shouldn't

1) Assuming that this is a fairly modern turntable, with
a gimbal mounted tone arm (the large double hung ring
bearing at the back for swinging both ways) and a
counter weight for setting the stylus pressure...

and possibly an anti-skating adjustment as well...

It is fair to assume that the cuing lever is what lifts
the arm vertically, regardless of the swing return mechanics.

2) The premature stylus drop (during return) is therefore
caused either by a cuing defect, or by lift timing,
either mechanical or electronic.

The stylus weigh setting is NOT an issue here, that
is determined by the stylus and cartridge specifications,
and must be set correctly to prevent record and stylus
damage.

Note that both too much and to little weight is BAD.
Too much weigh is obvious, but too little will cause
mis-tracking, distortion and premature record wear.

Similarly, and incorrect tracking pitch or yaw will also
cause early damage, as will incorrect anti-skating for
a particular stylus pressure.

3) First of all, test the cuing lever at several different tone-
arm angles, to see if it stays up, or droops down with time.

If there is a problem, check the springs, viscous damping..

Take the ****** apart from below, and see what gives.
Is it mechanical, hydraulic, or electronic ?

4) If it is electronic, you have a control/ timing problem,
which requires a service manual and a qualified electronic
tech to fix it.

You should be able to check any sensors, switches
or motor yourself, though.

5) If the cuing lift system is mechanical, check the levers
and cams:
What is driving it ?
Is it broken ?
Is worn out ?
Is it out of adjustment ?
Is it slipping ?
Is it stuck ?
Is one of the springs all stretched or missing ?

6) If the lift is hydraulic or pneumatic, check for leaks.

7) If the manual lift seems to work, but the automatic return
drops it...

why?
what is controlling it ?
how is it linked it to the arm return mech ?
Is there a coordination/timing problem ?

Have fun.
Please rate my answers.

Martin.