I have power supply card psa218-417 -r capacitors c 503 and c 507 are missing

SAMSUNG BN44-00775A L60H1_EHS BN4400775A POWER SUPPLY FOR UN60H6203AFXZA https://www.abctay.com/samsung-bn4400775a-l60h1ehs-bn4400775a-power-supply-for-un60h6203afxza-p-2572.html

To me from the indications given it looks like a Power Supply problem.
At first LED lights light, and fans spin.
Then you plug a PCI Express card in, and NO fans spin.

PCI Express graphics card took all the power there was available.

[ A PCI Express x16 slot can deliver Up To 75 Watts ]

1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is.

You don't have enough power to turn the Processor on.
Fans were spinning, you plugged a graphics card in, fans do not spin now.

Power Supply has a weak voltage power rail.
(There are three; 3.3 Volt, 5 Volt, and 12 Volt)

HOWEVER, the method is to diagnose; not parts changing.
Do you have a multimeter to test the three voltage power rails?
I can guide you. An economical multimeter ranges about $5 to $12 around here.

No?
How about a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; that you could borrow from a working computer, for a test unit?

How could a Power Supply go bad from just sitting?
There are Electrolytic Capacitors inside the Power Supply. These have a chemical paste inside. Electrolytic Paste. The paste breaks down over time. Especially if the Power Supply is not plugged into power.
(When an SMPS (Power Supply) is plugged into power, there is a constant 5 Volts present. (5 Volts DC) This is the 5 Volt Standby power )

[The Electrolytic Capacitors used are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors ]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

Click on the second photo down on the right. The Bottom example is a Radial design. The example is actually a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.


Just so I do not miss anything in the diagnoses, I would also like you to look CLOSE at the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard, too,

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

Long 'story', I'll try to make it short;
General Electrolytic Capacitor construction,

1) Case: The outside case is an aluminum cylindrical shell.
Think of a 'Coca-Cola' can with the top and bottom open.

2) The top 'lid' is a thin aluminum flat disk.
It has either a lK or X shape cut into the flat disk, partway
It is sealed around it's outer edge to the Case.
This is the Vent Cover.

3) The bottom 'lid' is a synthetic rubber flat disk.
It is called the Bung.

4) Inside are three strips. (There are many layers of these strips in actuality)

A) One strip is metal, and is the Conducting Strip.
It has the Positive lead connected to it. (Lead; Think stiff wire)

B) One strip is also metal, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it. It is the Non-Conducting strip, and the Negative lead connects to it.

C) The last strip is paper-like, and soaked with Electrolytic Paste.
The Electrolytic Paste soaked strip is laid in-between the two metal strips, and all three are rolled up tightly.
The two leads (Positive and Negative) poke down through the Bung.

(Again, there are several layers of this construction, inside the capacitor's case)

When an Electrolytic capacitor goes bad, the Electrolytic paste inside chemically breaks down. It either dries up, or turns into a gas.
Hydrogen Gas.
The gas expands inside the Case, and pushes against the top seal, (Vent Cover), and bottom seal. (Bung)

The X or lK shape etched partway into the Vent Cover pops open, and/or one side of the synthetic rubber Bung pushes down.
The gas begins pushing Electrolytic paste out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor can operate at a weakened state.
Too much paste loos, and the capacitor fails.
This is why it can work sometimes, then seem to fail all at once.

This applies to Electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard, and in the Power Supply.

[NOT an invite to open the Power Supply, and attempt a repair!
This = No.
Replace ]

The first thing to do when diagnosing a desktop computer problem, is make SURE it is receiving power, and the correct amount of voltage.

THEN the diagnosis can be continued on.
A Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, cam emulate all sorts of seemingly software problems.

http://www.fic.com.tw/product/motherboard/AMD/K8MC51G.aspx

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

These capacitors are be located at its main power supply regulator section circuit itself.

Hi,
Its sounds like the Back light inverter of your tv is faulty. If any one of the High voltage copper transformer in the backlight inverter is faulty the the tv will go to standby mode to prevent further problems.Also there is a chance of Missing 24V to the back light inverter board is missing from the power supply. If so the you have to check the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply board. Bad electrolytic capacitor in the power supply also leads to these type of complaints.I have added the picture of faulty electrolytic capacitors how they look like.Also you can check the links for the inverter board for your tv.


I

Inverter board
Ajin

Good Day Aligeak!

Looks like the video card you are using is already on its last leg.

It is not a power supply problem but the video card itself.

You mentioned that there are times your screen blacks out and freezes when playing games. You can still fix it. What you need to do is replace all capacitors in the video card with same and exact values.These leaked or blown capacitors tend to draw to much power from the power supply the reason why your PC self restarting.

Just make sure you have the tools and the skill to solder terminals of capacitors in the video card board. If by replacing all capacitors did not fixed it, I do recommend you replace your video card.

On contrary, If you have a multitester, you can check the voltage out from the power supply connector. There are two voltage out 5 volts and 12 volts. It is better to check if there is a load like the CD-rom drive or the hard disk. Disconnect the power supply connector from the motherboard and leave on the hard disk or CD-rom. Make sure power supply is plug in and switch is on.

Set your multitester in DC volts. Insert the black test probe of the multitester in the black wire of the power supply connector. The red test probe on the red and yellow wire of the connector. The reading should be 5 volts and 12 volts. If there is a voltage dropped, then, you will need to replace your power supply.

Good Luck Aligeak!
It would be best to have it check by a certified technician if you do not know how to do it.

hi,
You have to check the power supply of you tv for any voltage missing. also check the back light inverter board for any short circuit in it. Inverter transformers in the back light controlling board can become faulty.Three blink indicate the power supply have some problem. First of all replace all the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply board. If filter capacitors in the power supply is bad then this problem can occur.
ok

Primecoat is correct, it is the capacitors. Follow the instructions here for a simple and cheap way to get it back up and working like new:
http://boredprojects.blogspot.com/2009/09/hpvs19e-monitor-fix.html

sometimes the monitor could of blown or your graphics card has gone bad. first check and see if your graphics card still works. go to another monitor and hook it up if it works then your monitor has blown if it doesn't work then you have a graphics card problem.

the power supply could be going
but first check your drivers in device manager

check all fuses...if they are okay...chances are you have a bad component somewheres I.E. Capacitor or Transistor, or Resistor