Replacement battery availaibility

If under warranty have it repaired/replaced. If not under warranty then some basic troubleshooting. Most likely a battery issue howerver;


To test the fencer output you can power the fencer from either a standard 6V lantern battery (6V fencer) or a standard 12V automobile battery (12V fencer). You need to rig wiring observing polarity.


To test battery, remove and check voltage with digital volt meter.
A fully charged 6V SLA battery should read 6.2V minimum and a 12V should read 12.4V minimum. If a 6V battery measures 4 volts or less then battery has likely failed. Likewise if a 12V battery measures 10 volts or less it has likely failed. Before replacing a suspect failed battery, connect the battery to any standard 6V/12V automobile charger and see if it will take a charge. After the charging period;

• If battery takes a charge, reinstall back in fencer and see if fencer output is hot. If fencer fails output, repair/replace fencer. Else verify the fencer is charging the battery. While battery is installed in fencer measure battery voltage with a digital volt meter. Typical minimum voltage is 13.5V for 12V and 6.7V for 6V. If fencer fails to meet minimum battery charging voltage, likely the fencer solar charging system has failed, repair/replace.

• If battery fails to charge, likely battery is end of life. However fencer could still not work. Test fencer with alternate power source (see previous tests). If fencer ok, replace battery.

Battery is obvious first check. Using a multimeter on 20V DC setting, touch both + and - terminals and not should be very close to 6V. In my case, my battery was 2V but after replacing it, still wouldn't power on. I did notice by main wiring harness from control board to the display was warm, so I repacked the control board and voila! I probably static shocked the control board when i was moving it. See here: https://www.fixya.com/support/t25141832-lifefitness_95xi_wont_turn

There should be a small white ceramic block on the firewall - this component cuts the battery voltage from 12 to 9 volts for the coil and ignition system. It has 4 wires and is called a ballast resistor.
You may need a book with the wiring diagram to be able to test it. You should have battery voltage going in and something like 9 volts coming out.
You can also run a wire with a fuse from the battery to the positive side of the coil to check the system. Disconnect the factory wire from the coil first.

The AT-1 uses a 6V battery, Eveready 544 or Mallory PX28 or equivalent. One online source is here.

The AT-1 uses a 6V battery, type Eveready 544, Mallory PX28, or equivalent. If you can't find one at a local electronics store, you may order online here.

The Canon AT-1 uses a 6V silver-oxide battery, Eveready 544 or Mallory PX28 or equivalent. If you can't find one at a local department or electronics store, one online source is here.

It uses a 6V lithium battery, Panasonic CRP2p, Duracell DL223A, Kodak K223LA, or equivalent.

If you need a manual, you can download one at
http://www.cameramanuals.org/ricoh_pdf/ricoh_rz-105sf.pdf

The AE-1 uses one 6V battery, either a silver-oxide Eveready 544 (or equivalent) or an alkaline-manganese Eveready 537 (or equivalent).

If you need a manual, you can download one from
http://butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_ae-1/canon_ae-1.htm

See:
http://www.battery-house.co.uk/reference.html
for a list of battery equivalents. Looks like the SB-T74 is a CR2340, available online for a couple of UK pounds.