My mids and highs have cut off but my subs still work

This is discussed on page 26 of manual. Press and hold MENU and select USER for EQ. Under EQ you will have options to adjust SUB BASS, BASS, MID BASS, ULTRA HIGH, HIGH, MID HIGH, AND MID

Hi Ethan,

What you're looking for is called a "crossover". A crossover is an electronic filter for an audio or speaker circuit. In an audio circuit, a crossover is used to prevent or pass certain frequencies or a range of frequencies from passing through it. Since your sub will reproduce the bass or low frequencies, you don't want other speakers to reproduce them. A band pass filter on your door speakers will do this for you. A band pass filter passes only a range or "band" of frequencies and blocks those that are above and below the range or band of frequencies selected. Installing a band pass filter will prevent the very high & very low frequencies from getting to the door /dash speakers. Likewise, you should consider connecting a low pass filter to your subs, too. The low pass filters work a little differently from of the way band pass filters work - they only allow low frequencies to get to the sub - blocking all the other higher frequencies (your other speakers are better suited to reproduce those). Lastly, you would install a high pass filters on tweeters. Tweeters are designed to reproduce only the high frequencies - sending mid and low frequencies to them is wasting power and can cause damage to them.

You purchase the filters for specific crossover points (the block / unblocked point) as determined by the individual speakers. If a sub has a frequency response of 20Hz - 100Hz, a low pass filter of 100Hz would be ideal. Remaining filters would need to begin at 100Hz - assuming the mid-range speakers have a frequency response beginning at 100Hz. A band pass filter of 100Hz - 3KHz would fit the bill nicely if the mid-range speakers go up to 3Khz Match the high end of the band pass to the high end of the frequency response of the mid-range speakers. Next, a high pass filter at 3KHz would allow only the high frequencies to your tweeters. Basically, you want to have the entire audible range 20Hz - 20KHz covered by the speakers and have the crossover points that match the frequency response ranges of the speakers.

I hope this helps & good luck!

You can use either the front or the rear, it won't make any difference which one you use.

are you sharing the air space or building a divider to give each driver its own air space

these speakers or not made for low end bass these woofer are meant for mid bass high bass

6.5'' High Power Subwoofer

Non-Press paper Cone

Specially Treated Foam Edge Suspension

1.5'' High Temperature Aluminum Voice Coil

Magnet Weight: 40 Oz

Impedance: 4 Ohm

Fs: 80Hz, Qms: 4.05, Qes: 1.3, Qts: 1.2, SPL: 87(dB), Vas: 6.8(Cuft)

Mounting Depth: 3"

Rubber magnet Boot Cover fers are

there is only 3 " of mounting depth needed i would build you door pannel out fiberglass a door pod and mount them on the door if you have a factory speaker there . then run to the amp and turn the x-over on to high pass and them use them as a mid bass driver up front for the front sound stage for get about them as a subwoofer get the lanzar 10's or 12's

i mounted a set of ma audio 8" subs on my 03 s-10 door the speaker fit in the 6.5 location had to trime the door metal and space them out a little cause the 4.75 mounting depth.it worked and then i ran the them in 2 ohm stereo to my 4 channel amp and used the high pass crossover to run them as a mid bass driver works great for me . ma audio 500 watt dual 4 ohms 8" subs each i had 250watts to each sub.

you could build a small enclosure just big enough to fit the 6.5 woofer you could build a dual camber enclosure like 8wx5dx8h internale air space would be 0.18

15 wx5dx8h would give you 0.347 share the air space this is internal air space

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You probably blew out the sub, the larger speakers are more at risk to distortion are high output levels. The amp can no longer maintain its true output and begins passing voltage to the sub and the cone over travels or the winding burns out. You can try gently pushing on the sub membrane to see if it moves in and out easily, it may be stuck and you can free it up. If that doesn't work, remove from system and check the coil with an ohm meter resistance. it should read a low ohm value. If high value, it's blown and you need a replacement. It is also possible you blew the network that sends the lows to the sub and the high to the mid range and tweeters, check the sub first.

Yes and Yes. If bypassing that noise filter, has no effect your subs could have blown.

try to find a the specs for a box for those subs. A box has a great deal to do with highs, mids and lows.

for starters, you need to find out if it's the same speaker cutting out each time. Next time it stops, chuck a bit of tape on it so you know which one it is.

Also, try to eliminate the obvious problems, like the cables. The easiest way to do this is buy all new cables, but that's expensive! If you're running all 4 in mono, daisy chaining the signal between each, then you can work out dependant on where the faulty speaker is in the chain. The signal will go in this order; Sub - spk1 - spk2 - spk3 - spk4.

If spk2 stops working, and 3 & 4 keep working, then the signal is obviously getting through, and you can pretty much rule out a cabling problem. If spk4 cuts out, try changing the order so you can eliminate the cable problem.

I've had 415's cut out in the past when they have been too hot. This is because they're being driven too hard, often with too much low-end being driven. A few simple tings to check;

make sure all the 415's are running at the same volume, on the gain pot on the back of the speakers. If you have the volume up high on 1 speaker, it will obviously be working harder than the rest, and is more likely to over-heat!

Check that you're using the HP filtered output from the sub. It's got a built in crossover which removes the bass signal. This means that the sub only works on making the bass sound, and the 415's only have to make the mid-high sound. (sorry if this is all **** you know already!) It basically allows them to work more efficiently. If you're running the full-range output from the sub, it's still sending lots of bass signal to the 415's, which makes them work harder, and they're more likely to overheat. When they do overheat, a thermal switch cuts the power, and the speaker stops working until it cools down sufficiently. That would explain why the speaker goes off, and after you've fiddled with the cables for a while, it comes back on.

It's a while since I've used 415's, but from memory they have a basic eq curve, which is selectable using a switch on the back panel. I'm pretty sure it cuts the mids only, and doesn't actually bost the bass, but it might be worth checking to see if the problematic speaker has this switch pressed, and the others dont.


Hopefully there's something in there which might help!

i tried disconnecting everything from the amps and re-connecting it and it worked

sounds like you have a problem with your grounding on you amplifier. check for shorts on your amplifier and the place where you have it grounded. (or check the power wire also.)