1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT Logo
Anonymous Posted on Sep 09, 2012

Need wire schematics that goes too spark plug coils

I have 3 female hook up on base plate were the 3 coil pack i hve two plug end cant find the 3 male end

1 Answer

Stephen

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  • Pontiac Master 21,873 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 09, 2012
 Stephen
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Joined: Jun 22, 2012
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I don't know if this will help or not. It shows the wire colors but not the actual connectors.

need wire schematics that goes too spark plug coil - wo9vzmvvddnugaaaabjru5erkjggg==

5 Related Answers

c17hydro

Greg Bernett

  • 2993 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 13, 2009

SOURCE: 1969 pontiac firebird 350 has no spark new

Check this out....it will help you.


http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/icar_resourcecenter_encyclopedia_ignition.asp

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Anonymous

  • 73 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 24, 2009

SOURCE: 1994 pontiac transport se not firing in first coil pack at idle

ARE YOU CHEKING SPARK OFF THE COIL TOWER OR AT THE SPARK PLUG END OF THE WIRE SOUNDS LIKE YO HAVE A BAD WIRE

honeymokey

honeymokey

  • 3113 Answers
  • Posted on May 16, 2009

SOURCE: No spark from new coil pack

Crank sensor!

Anonymous

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2009

SOURCE: spark plug wiring diagram for gm 3.4 liter v6

http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/Engine_Firing_Orders.htm

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Grand Am 3.4l V-6. I have replaced

check the plug where the air intake connects to the engine. i had a loose connection in mine, it cost me an alternator that i didn't need. the wire also caused rough shifting.

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I have a 2005 Grand caravan 3.3 with 236.000 miles it came up with a code P2308 ignition coil C secondary circuit ? No spark to cylinder 6 & 3 ?

No cylinders fire at same time. 6 & 3 must be from same coil-ignition coil C-that is the one with the problem. And the secondary circuit- that is the spark firing portion of the coil. Coils have a primary winding circuit and a secondary wire winding circuit. The secondary comes out of coil as the tower, or the spark plug wire tower -the business end of the coil leading to the plug.

You could have a bad new coil (happens occasionally) or the connection to that coil may be the problem-the connection where the coil snaps onto the coil pack assembly. Try swapping that coil (coil C) with another one there and see if problem follows the coil. See? Keep your plug wires the same, just swap coils with another and see if the new position for suspect coil causes other cylinders to misfire. If a different coil in that "C" position causes same code, then it is not the coil itself, but probably the base assembly that the coil connects to.

These ignition systems use what is called a waste spark, or exhaust waste spark system. The coil will send spark to 6 & 3 simultaneously, but since one is always on the exhaust stroke while the other is on the compression (firing) stroke, the exhaust spark is very weak, and all the energy from coil is directed to the compression stroke cylinder. It sounds crazy but it works great.

Since you say it runs bad just as before, that indicates the coil is not the problem, but something wrong with the base of the coil pack . This is where the wiring is directed to the coils.
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you can search your particular vehicle schematic or find it in a chiltons or haynes book look for the engine schematic and the wire will be connected to your #1 coil + wire on separate coils if you have coil packs for 3-4 plugs each there should be 3 wires 2+ones 1-return find the + associated with the #1plug
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Remove the plugs from the head. Insert into the coil wires. Make sure they are properly earthed on the engine. Crank the motor and check for spark at each of the plugs.
Refer to the diagram. Cylinders are connected as shown on the diagram in blue. 1 goes to cylinder 1(sparkplug furthest from coil pack), 2 to 2, 3 to 3 and 4 to 4(closets to coil pack).
To test the coil pack use a digital volt meter. Measure resistance between coil towers for coil 1(marked 1 in red on diagram) Value should be between 12000 and 14500 ohm. Do the same for coil towers 2.
Measure resistance between I and C1. If the measurement is more than 5 ohm the coil is defective. Do the same for I to C2.
Measuring voltage at I(Ignition start/run) to ground should be 10V.
I is connected to the 15A engine fuse. The radio interference capacitor is connected between this line and earth at the coil. Disconnect it to see if it cures the problem.
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Reading number 3 cyl miss fire

Make sure the plug wires are correctly placed on the distributor cap (coil pack). In most cases, (when these are changed) two are accidentally switched.

Simply take two at a time and switch them. (refer to a repair maunal for firing order first). You can look this up online as well at http://www.google.com.

If these are correctly placed, then pull the wires (one at a time) from the plugs, and pull the plugs out and check for oil on the plug. If any one of these has oil, then you may have found your miss fire.

If all there is good (clean these and run truck); pull the distrubutor cap off (if equipped) and make sure the rotor (just under cap in center) is not cracked or warn (check end where small metal end is located). This sparks at each plug point on the distrubutor cap.

That is the next thing to check. On the inside of the cap. look to see that the prongs are not white, grooved, or broken. If any of these are true, replace both cap and rotor. Some rotors pull off, others have a small screw that hold them in palce which is located on the side.

If you're truck has coil pack(s) then have them all (if more than one) tested. These sit on a unit called a modular. Look at the modular after removing the packs and see that it is not bubbling, white, or melted. If any of these are true, it needs replaced as these cannot be tested.

Contact your local automotive parts store for correct parts and pricing. NOTE: some parts (seldom) may need to be purchased from dealer. This is rare, but sometimes an only option.

Also, if you have a distributor, check to make sure the coil wire (center of cap) is pushed on completely on the cap as well as the coil. (coil may need replaced as well) which also cannot be tested.

If need be, and you have not already, replace all of the following to ensure all is good:

plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, coil, (the coil wire will come with the plug wires, but make sure when purchasing).

If coil packs are present instead of distributor, replace the following:

plugs, plug wires, any coil packs that are tested back, modular if it looks anything like that described above. Also remember to check for oil residue, or blackened powder on the spark plug ends.

If any, replace as necessary. When you replace spark plugs and wires do the following to ensure the firing order remains:

Pull one plug at a time. Take plug wire off the plug only, until new plug is inserted; then replace the appropriate length plug wire. (compare old to new; some may be close in length, but not exact as these are aftermarket plug wires).

Do this for each plug and wire. Save the coil wire for last to know you are finished with all: coil wire is the shortest of all (usually) and only goes on once way at each end: typically. One end will be straight - this goes to the coil. (not coil pack) the other end will be a 90 degree; this goes on the center port on the distributor.

If coil packs are present, there will not be a coil wire, as the coil packs replaced this unit.

My apologies for the lengthy reply, however this is to ensure you save time, money, and are aware of the different options and possibilities.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com
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