The "Preview Area" doesn't show the rest of my problem message so here's the rest. I assume turning it to 520 doesn't actually turn it down, but rather off and it just continues to cook because the oven had gotten so hot when it was turned on at 550. In order to cook, I have to keep going from 520 to 550. A few years ago GE told me the problem would be in the thermostat mechanism which was part of the clock mechanism and that part is no longer available. Now I'm wondering if a new sensor would help.
Good Morning! I would check the oven temperature sensor first. There are a lot tutorial videos that can be found by Googleing, "How to test my oven temperature sensor." If the sensor is good, and reads 1100 ohms at room temperature.. then the issue youre experiencing is likely control board related. Given that the part is no longer available new, the oven board will have to be rebuilt. Fixyourboard does this and offers a 2 year warranty with each remanufacture.
WB27K5073 GE General Electric Oven Control
SOURCE: GE Profile -Installed wall oven - won't heat
brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares
SOURCE: GE P7 Wall oven had bad thermostat????
IF YOUR HEATING ELEMENT IS GETTING ORANGE HOT, AND CYCLING, I WOULD SUSPECT THE THERMOSTAT TO BE THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. YOU MAY FIND IT HARD TO FIND ONE THOUGH DUE TO ITS AGE.
SOURCE: GE True Temp oven won't turn off.
The sensor is a part number WB23T10002 and goes for about $60. The paper inside the control area of the oven will state the normal resistance values of it. (probably about 1080 ohms at room temp, about 2650 at clean temp.) If you cut a lead to it, you would just get a F3 code, and if you cut the other and wire them together, just get a F4 code, so that wouldn't help diagnose the problem, but if you could use an ohm meter on the probe it would. BUT the oven should not come on without it being set to bake, SO I conclude that the ERC is indeed the problem (with the welded electrical contacts), which is a part number WB50T10043 which might go for about $125 or so. If you are careful when you replace it, you can probably peal the faceplate (part # WB27T10125) off and reuse it, so you should just need the ERC.
SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,
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