Timer counts down. Microwave keeps going

William Miller

• 9179 Answers
• Posted on Mar 11, 2007

SOURCE: KitchenAid KCMC155J

Sounds like a classic bad door switch or switch holder. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety info, info on door switch testing and replacement, and oven disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

SOURCE: door indicator prevents microwave from starting

This is usually an indication of a bad door interlock. Take resistance readings with the power turned off on the primary and secondary interlocks. You will need to remove the control panel to access them. There should be a wiring diagram somewhere inside the control panel to assist you in determining if the interlock is normally OPEN, or normally CLOSED. As you open and close the door the interlock should change states. Additionally, double all your connectors to make sure they are plugged in correctly. I had a similar problem once and it turned out to be a loose connection on one of the interlocks. I hope this helps you.

William Miller

• 9179 Answers
• Posted on Mar 06, 2009

SOURCE: TIMER COUNTS DOWN, MICROWAVE DOES NOT TURN ON

To actons2 - This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Note to Austin8181 - Your problem is not quite the same.

Please report as a separate request and of course please include your brand and model number.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

SOURCE: Microwave still runs when door is open

Is this by any chance a combination microwave? It is is-what you are hearing/seeing is the fan running to cool it down. If it is not a combi then indeed you hav a problem-probably linked to the door catch.

Kelly

• 3740 Answers
• Posted on Apr 12, 2010

SOURCE: always on

Most probable failure is this VERY expensive part:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4327040&image=1

This is what controls the Magnetron operation via the relay on the PCB. If the Magnetron is operational without programming it usually is the cause of the problem.

I would recommend that all wiring to the control board be verified before considering replacement of the board. The price of the board to me is off the charts in cost! Not sure what the original purchase cost was but the price of this board would make one consider unit replacement vs component replacement when you add in the cost of the service call.

I am sure this is not what you wanted to hear.

Thanks for using FixYa,

Kelly