North Star 5500/ lost one leg of the 220v

It's very common for the connectors between the alternator and power outlets to come loose on these. Give them a check and tighten as necessary.

Check the connections between the alternator (generator) and the regulator/output connectors.

No this should not be a problem as long as its not jumped from the 220 to the one 110. 1 leg.

The genset power most likely is 220V line to ground power. You utility power is 220V line to line but uses 2ea 110 VAC line inputs to get that 220VAC. The only way to correct this is to reconfigure your generator connection to 220V line to line IF possible. Some generators that only have a 220V output. Re-configuration is not possible

Measure power at the breaker on gen power as the source and again with the utility as the source. You will see the difference in voltages. Utility power.... each side of the Breaker output to ground = 110V across the 2 terminals 220V

Gen power one side of the breaker output = 220V other side = ZERO.

You can make it work but it would take some heavy duty relays in a power sub paenl so that when the generator is running one side of the power is 220V and the other side is Ground. Once utility power is restored the relays would disengage and power would again be 220 VAC line to line.

You will need a licensed electrician and a PERMIT to install a relay panel such as I mentioned above. Improper wiring of the power relay swtitching panel can cause major power problems in any given installation and trip the MAIN PWR breaker.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

wire a 120v 15a to 9vdc or 12vdc battery make sure you have no voltage out of the 240 side. with the unit running plug into the 120v receptacl QUICKLY pull out. check power out put. if it did'nt work check your battery, than do it again twice as long. you must check all component before doing this to make sure you don't have any other fail-er. this is danger-us be careful. good luck

did you wire up the green wire?

Does your generator is single phase generator set or three phase four wire generator? Why your generator set is 110V at full load, it should be 220V or 240V to generator electricity. If it is used for industrial equipment, it should be 380V, 400V, 440V, etc.
Generator technical support: https://www.dieselgeneratortech.com/support/

There was a day and time when generators were simple. There were no capacitors, regulators to control/adjust power to magnet or ground fault outlets. Winding getting hot indicates short, however could be bad capacitors. Rectifiers and capacitors must be removed from circuit to test properly. Here is a simple test that I use to find fault area. I use a small power supply (16v AC 1 amp like doorbell transformer) into the 110v outlet of generator. This should energize the armature magnet and actually produce voltage at commutator with brushes pulled off. You can slowly pull the starter rope to move the armature into a different positon the voltage will vary. If the ac windings are shorted there will be very little or no magnet. There is a seperate 110 v circuit at the 220v outlet to test (there are two 110v windings that make up the 220v outlet, one is also used for the 110v outlet). There is another winding that products voltage for the regulator that powers the magnet thru the brushes but I think that circuit is porbably working because of the heat in the windings. You might even have 110v power at the 220v outlet. As our parents told us over and over, be careful when working with electricity. Enjoy

ok. lets make some assumtions. You must be of some electrical background to take a measurement such as 240v 21v. I will also assume you are measuring to ground (the half U).
I will also assume you are measuring at the wall recepticle(plug on wall / or even in the back of the range itself if no plugin)
1) four colors there. red, black, white, bare. or u-ground, middle-white, either side red/black.
2) measure from ground (U) to either side. should show 110v each.
3) measure from middle blade to either side and it should show 110v each
4) if either of those reads are not that, then you can look for a nail or a sharp edge that has poked through or cut through the range cable between the panel box and the range.
5) when you find the problem call an electrician in to fix it. it shouldn't cost much as you have done all the leg work.
6) one more thing- make sure the power at the panel box is 220v. I'm not sure how you did that this far, but you must use extreem caution as not to get zaped.
CAUTION must be used with cheap meters, as they can fail also.
7) if the break is close to one end, the electrcian will probebley add on some new cable and you will be ok.
call back with more info if you want :)

I have the exact same monitor and it is 220v. But seeing as i bought it in Australia that makes sense. If yours was purchased in North America then it is almost definitively 110v. It is likely that it is written on the actual monitor. If in doubt you could always try it with 110v. If that works then theres your answer. If it doesn't then its probably 220v.