K-15160 trying to replace valve and o-ring set.Cannot get spray house out so I can lift off body. How do you remove-have both ends disassembled but am nowhere-Dont want to force unless I am sure

I guess you have found out how to do this by now, but if not its quite easy. These instructions apply to all the Graco St series II sprayers, so the repair kit (Graco # 244-194) contains all the parts to service these different sprayers and you may not need them all for your pump. The back of the kit shows the order in which the parts are installed. Follow it carefully.

The first thing to do is open the repair kit and squirt engine oil into the blisters that contain the packings so that the leather packings soak it up while you are working. Note that the kit will not use all the parts, as it is good for several different pumps, so you need to keep a careful watch on which parts you need.

You need to repack the pump with it held in a bench vice, so first remove it from the sprayer: Disconnect the pump output hose and the suction assembly, then push out the pin that holds the piston into the gearbox piston, slacken the locking ring and unscrew the pump.

Grip the inlet valve body (the lower tapered part) in the vice on the 2 flats. Unscrew the main body and set it aside, take the inlet valve housing out of the vice and remove the valve parts, noting the order of them; you will be reusing the valve seat and cage.

Put the main body upright in the vice and remove all the parts: Unscrew the brass packing nut and tap the piston out with a suitable tool, taking care to catch it. Remove the top packings and the O-ring on the end that goes into the inlet valve housing, clean the pump body including the outlet connection, and inspect the inside of the cylinder to check that it is not scored; if it is, you will have to replace it otherwise the scores will tear up the new packings.

I always keep the old packings in a stack to check the order and number of them when I install the new ones later.

Now remove the packings from the piston, keeping the parts together to check the right order when you install the new ones. There's a drawing on the back of the kit but having the real ones on the bench is a helpful check.

Clean the piston rod and check that the end that goes through the top packing is not scored and replace it if necessary. Rebuild the packings onto the rod being careful to use the correct spacer that goes on first; the thick one is for the rod that does not have a wiper at the other end. Do this with the flats in the end of the rod gripped in the vice. The packings must be installed so that the outer lips face up towards the end of the rod with the hole for the piston pin. The packings are three plastic and two leather between them supported at both ends by spacers. Before screwing in the outlet valve housing (the stud) that keeps the packings in place, check that the valve seat is OK, then install the wiper ring if there is one on the stud with the lips facing the opposite way from the other packings. Install the outlet ball and apply some Locktite on the screw threads and screw in the stud until it is firmly tight (Graco says 3 ft-lbs if you have a torque wrench).

Install the packings into the pump body, taking care again to get them in the right order with the lips facing down into the pump (this will be against the fluid pressure). Install a new O-ring on the brass nut and screw it in until it just contacts the packings but does not compress them. Turn the body upside down in the vice. grease the top couple of inches of the piston and push it through the packings. You will have to tap the rod through. Now tighten the brass nut; it is tricky to get the torque right so if you have a torque wrench tighten to 5 ft-lbs or an extra 1/2 turn from hand tight. Don't overtighten as this will accelerate wear and under tight leads to leaks. Install a new Teflon O-ring on the body end that screws into the inlet valve housing.

Now service the inlet valve and its housing. Remove the Teflon O-ring that sits under the inlet valve seat and the thick washer inside where the suction assembly goes. Clean all the parts thoroughly including the valve seat and cage. Examine the valve seat land where the ball will sit to ensure that it is not pitted; if it is you can turn it over to the other side if that is OK, otherwise you will need a new inlet valve seat. Install a new O-ring that goes in the groove under the valve seat.

With the inlet valve housing gripped on the 2 flats, in the vice, install the inlet valve parts; first the valve seat, then the new inlet ball and finally the valve cage with the legs downwards around the ball. Grease the threads on the end of the pump body and the O-ring on the end of it. Screw the body into the inlet valve housing and tighten it firmly but not too much (the seal does not depend on it being tight)

Now install the pump section into the gearbox housing. When it is in far enough, the top of the pump body will be about flush with the inside of the hole that it comes through. Now install the piston pin; this is tricky as you need to line up the hole in the crank piston, with the hole in the rod, so you may have to first screw in the body too far and rotate the rod inside it before you can push in the pin which requires that you also lift the retaining spring. Once the pin is in place, rotate the pump body until the top is just flush with the inside of the bottom of the gearbox housing, then tighten the locking ring. Reinstall the outlet hose and inlet suction assembly.

@ David well done & good job....

1 Close the hot and cold water valves in the cabinet beneath the sink to shut the water supply off to the bath faucet.

2 Remove the bath faucet's handle to access the valve cartridge. The faucet handle is removed by first detaching the handle's insert cap using the tip of a screwdriver or utility knife to expose the handle screw. Remove the handle screw with a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the handle off the valve cartridge stem.

3 Loosen and remove the cartridge valve nut with an adjustable wrench. Some faucet models retain the valve cartridge with a snap ring and are removed with snap ring pliers.

4 Pull the old valve cartridge out of the bath faucet base, using pliers.

5 Insert the new replacement valve cartridge into the faucet housing and replace the nut or snap ring removed in Step 3, using an adjustable wrench or snap ring pliers.

6 Reinstall the faucet's handle onto the valve cartridge post, then secure the handle's screw, using a screwdriver.

7 Replace the insert cap into the handle to cover the handle's screw hole.

8 Turn on the hot and cold water valves beneath the sink to restore the water supply.

Sounds like the old style center-control delta type faucet, rubber washers describe older type but still good. The rubber seats have holes in middle, supply water to the cylinder which diverts water to the spout, and has a seal over top of ball allowing stem for handle.

Think they are talking about flex-hose type faucet accessory getting clogged, Maybe: lift the flex-hose faucet housing off the center-control faucet body? Water to it runs directly from center-control faucet and if broken seat gets in narrow line could inhibit spray.

Kitchen faucet spout too has an O-ring under where it connects to the faucet body. Unscrew large nut where meets the faucet body unit (slip-joint pliers), once free of threads, spout should pull straight up, easy or slight tug. I use bent paper clip to remove old one trying to save it in one piece so as to get exact size (that's important) to replace, push on one side then other.

Inspect/Test/Service/Replace Hydraulic lifters can fail for several reasons:

• Dirt lodged in the check valve can allow the lifter to leak. Too much wear between the lifter and the body can cause excessive leak-down. This results in a noisy lifter.
• A lifter might be noisy because of an oil pressure problem.

NOTE An oil pressure problem will be evident on hollow pushrod engines if no oil is reaching the rocker arms.

• A lifter can become stuck because of varnish that accumulates between its plunger and body due to a lack of periodic oil changes.
• A stuck lifter can sometimes be freed up by the addition of an additive to the oil, or by spraying fuel system spray cleaner down a hollow pushrod oil channel.
• Lifters that stick because of varnish buildup can sometimes be loosened up by squirting carburetor spray cleaner down the hollow pushrod lubricating channel, where it contacts the rocker arm.

Hydraulic lifters are not rebuilt because they are relatively inexpensive. It is possible to disassemble and clean lifters but they must be reassembled with their mated parts. Because of the labor time involved, this procedure is usually impractical.
Sometimes a piece of foreign material becomes lodged in the lifter check valve. If the lifter is removed and disassembled before serious wear between the lifter and cam lobe results, it may be cleaned.
Worn mechanical (solid) lifters can be reground.

• The base of the lifter is ground to a radius on a special lifter grinder.
• Roller lifters have a longer service life than standard lifters.
• Wear can occur on the roller pin. Some of these pins are serviceable.

It might occasionally be necessary to disassemble a hydraulic lifter to clean it or to inspect it.

• If this is necessary, disassemble one lifter at a time and pay attention to the order of the check valve assembly.
• Lifter disassembly is done by pressing down on the pushrod seat with your thumb and using a screwdriver to remove the snap ring.
• Remove the plunger from the body; this may require tapping the body.
• Next, remove the check valve assembly.
• After thoroughly cleaning the lifter components in solvent, visually inspect them for signs of wear.
• If the internal components pass inspection, the lifter can be reassembled.
• During reassembly, cleanliness of the parts is of utmost importance.

Ours was purchased in 2002, I called Kohler 800 456 4537, followed the prompts and pressed 2 for technical help, still followed them for kitchen products and stuck with it until I reached a rep. I explained, the problem, they mentioned a O ring and lubrication was needed, I added that the mechanical bind I was feeling couldn't just be from a fouled O ring, they then added all of the valve internals to be sure.
should be here in 2 to 5 days all free of charge. Though it may have been better to replace the entire unit, they mentioned they would if this didn't take care of the problem. It was a pleasure to work with them.

Sounds like you may possibly have some sediments in the screen on the spray head. When you pull the head out you can disconnect it from the flex supply line and see if the water pressure is okay with out the head connected. This will either confirm it is in the spray head or valve body.

under the neck of the faucet is a small cone in the side of the body.this is your spray diverter,it may be clogged,it may be spring loaded or a presure valve you must remove and clean. then it will work right.

In my case when I pulled the trigger on the upholstery hose I barely got a drizzle of water. After looking at the parts online I realized the valve assembly on the spray end of the hose consisted of a black valve housing, with an inner spring and a white plunger part that sprays the water. The white plunger should move noticeably when the trigger is pulled. Since all 3 part of that valve assembly were replaceable I decided to try and take it apart. First I removed the 2 silver screws on the cover of trigger end of the hose and lifted out the valve assemble. The white plunger part was basically frozen in the black valve assembly. Tried pulling the white plunger out by hand wouldn't budge. So I use a pair of plier and pulled the white part out. Sure enough the whole inside was caked with what appeared to be old dried cleaner. I rinsed the spring and the white plunger. There were o-rings on the white plunger, I did not remove them but used an old tooth brush to clean out around them then reassembled. The white plunger now freeing slides a noticeable distance when the trigger is depressed and getting a large V shaped spray pattern. Lesson learned, I will now make sure I run plenty of plain water through the hose to rinse all the cleaner out after using it .