Garage door continues running even though sliding switch contacts end limit switch. Bends running bar. Only when closing- brown wire not broken

are the wires connected to the motor correct
for the limit switch there should be one wire ( normally black or neutral going to the center connection and the other wire ( red or active wires going to either of the other two terminals
that set up means that power is available to the limit switches and the return is the neutral wire
it works like this
on the up direction power is delivered to the motor by the controller box through a closed limit switch
when the up limit is circuit is broken the motor stops
the down button reverses the polarity of the motor in the controller box and so the motor runs in reverse through the the lower limit switch until that circuit is broken In the down action the upper limit switch circuit is completer but the control box has no power to it until the lower switch circuit is brokenis broken
the motor is dc voltage and to getting it to go up or down is done by the control box changing polarity for the motor power according to the button position pressed on the remote

Locate the limit switch on overhead rail.
This will be little piece of metal that hangs down and has 2 wires attached. No risk of shock.
Loosen the screw holding limit switch and slide bit more toward garage door opening to adjust final door position.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You don't say which model you have, however, MOST Genie systems use the switches as temporary contacts. By twisting them together, the computer board is reading it as a short. You need to replace the switch and route the wires properly.

It sounds like you have a broken or missing "upper limit switch". There is one for the down limit and should be one for the upper limit. If it is defective or missing the openers 'brain' will not tell the motor to reverse direction.

The wiring for the limit switch assembly is:

Yellow wire to the up limit contact

Gray wire to the center contact

Brown wire to the down limit contact

I think you need to take the cover off the motor unit and watch the limit switch assembly in operation. Takes only a few seconds to see how it works and see if it is damaged in some way. You need to turn the down limit adjustment in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover to stop the door sooner. I think the down force adjustment on the rear of the motor unit is out of adjustment also. This adjustment affects the safety of the opener and should only be adjusted high enough to consistently close the door.

Loosen the chain enough that you can remove it from the sprocket. Run the opener until the sprocket turns counterclockwise and stops. With the door in the open position replace the chain. You will probably need to adjust your open and close limits per your owners manual.

I have similar jerkiness problem and have gone through all the nine yards of possible causes. The motor stops at random position and at random time. Even when I unhook the door from the carriage, it still showed this symptom. It started when I had one torsion spring broken. I replaced both torsion springs and adjusted for weight balance. Make sure the two cables windup properly along the thread of the pulley; Checked the photo eye sensors; checked/test capacitor; cleaned rpm sensor; adjusted all possible force settings; make sure limit switch at sound; re-programmed my remote just to check if the logic board somehow still work on this side and it did;
One important observation I have is that when I adjusted the carriage chain, I've noticed that the opener unit turns off and on as if there's a loose connection/contact. This I pursued more. The more I investigate, I spotted a "tiny" spark on one logic board soldering at the transformer footing as I **** the back panel (where the board is mounted) back and forth to simulate the on/off due to the loose contact observed earlier. This one solves everything! All I had to do is take the logic board out and re-solder that failed connection and Hooray - it fixed the problem!
Hope this helps someone with similar issues,

Viewful
Canton, Mi

There are three causes for this problem:
1. a remote is sticking or is getting bumped (if the vacation lock is on and it still has phantom operation remotes are not the issue).
2. the logic board could be going bad (if you have the 315Mhz you have a newer operator so this is probably not your issue)
3. the wires to the wall button have a short. Try disconnecting the wall button wires from the operator. If this stopps the phantom operaton you might solve your issue by running new wires to your wall button.

stop adjusting. you are doing right thing. unit will not run down w/o eyes so removing wiring did nothing. you gave clue when yu said they were folloded. buy new set of eyes.