20 Most Recent Hayward Sp2607x10 Super 1 Hp Swimming Pool Pump Questions & Answers

try when off to remove back cover on motor then try to turn motor shaft by hand then try to turn on might be rusted

did you check the wiring is it 120 volt you have to change wiring for 120 volt

It sounds like an overheating issue. You probably need to put or connect some kind of fan and hope it works.

They can vary from year to year. There is a model number and a code number on the motors label.

please follow this steps . God bless you

1. Turn off the pump motor and close the input and output valves.
2. Loosen the fasteners that secure the tube connecting the pump and motor.
3. Move the motor away from the pump housing.
4. Remove fasteners holding the diffuser to the backplate.
5. Inspect the diffuser and O-ring for wear, replacing as needed.
6. As needed, remove fasteners attaching the impeller to the shaft. Alternately, the impeller may be screwed on to the end of the shaft.
7. Remove the impeller and seal from the shaft.
8. Inspect and replace the impeller and seal.
9. Reassemble the pump.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. Turn off the pump motor and close the input and output valves.
2. Loosen the fasteners that secure the tube connecting the pump and motor.
3. Move the motor away from the pump housing.
4. Remove fasteners holding the diffuser to the backplate.
5. Inspect the diffuser and O-ring for wear, replacing as needed.
6. As needed, remove fasteners attaching the impeller to the shaft. Alternately, the impeller may be screwed on to the end of the shaft.
7. Remove the impeller and seal from the shaft.
8. Inspect and replace the impeller and seal.
9. Reassemble the pump.

More than likely, your unit is equipped with a protective device which automatically trips the unit should the internal motor temperature exceed a preset limit. Then, when the temperature decreases, also to a preset limit, the device turns the pump back on. The purpose of the device is to prevent burnout of the motor.Have an electrician use a clamp-on ammeter to measure the current draw of the motor and compare that to the nameplate data. If the meter shows the motor near, at or over the normal Full Load Amps (FLA), investigate that condition. While there are numerous possibilities, the most likely causes are worn/defective motor or pump bearings. Try to determine if the motor is actually running hot. The nameplate lists a Temperature Rise which gives the normal motor operating temperature under expected full load conditions. Quick check:If you cannot place your hand on the motor surface for at least 10 seconds w/o undue discomfort, your motor is running hot. If the motor is tripping but not drawing excessive current nor running hot, it's very possible that the protective device itself is defective and needs replacement. Have the electrician check out whatever is used in the motor starter for overload device. Some overloads trip on overload and reset themselves on decrease in temperature. Others must be manually reset. If the starter overloads are not tripping but the motor is, then the problem is almost assuredly a defective trip installed in the motor itself.Important: If you are not electrically trained yourself, it IS NOT recommended that you attempt any electrical troubleshooting. Hire a pro.

thats the shaft seal must fix asap...impeller screws off to the left. on most motors you can use a 7/16 wrench to hold the rotor still as you unscrew the impeller , go under the thermal limiter switch, its by the ground screw . you will need to wiggle it in to get past the wires ... use back of screwdriver handle to install white portion of seal,. do not touch these shinny parts with you fingers ! or the screw driver ! prime the pump with water after every repair, don't starve the pump for water, if you do watch for the wet spot and replace the shaft seal ASAP ! .. jay the pool pump guy in Florida

If it has an internal centrifugal switch, usually under the cover at the rear of the pump, it might be stuck. Check it got movement. The weights on the switch move out away from the shaft when starting. If that is ok, possible capacitor.

IT TURNS OFF TO THE LEFT, YOU NEED A 7/16 OR A 11 mm WRENCH TO HOLD THE ROTOR AT THE BACK OF THE MOTOR.. LOOK FOR THE NOTCH IN THE SHAFT UNDER THE SYNTRIFICAL SWITCH ASSEMBLY , BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK ANYTHING ON THE BACK OF THE MOTOR. REPLACE THE SEAL ! THERE IS A GUY SELLING SHAFT SEAL HAYWARD SUPER PUMP MOTOR REPAIR KIT & how to
ON EBAY .. HEY YOU .. PRIME THAT PUMP AFTYER ANY PUMP REPAIR !! THERE NOT SELF PRIMING UNTIL THERE INITIALLY PRIMED IN FIRST PLACE !!! AKA PUT WATER IN THE PUMP !.. IF I WAS OF HELP CLICK ON THAT (YES) BUTTON ON THE BOTTOM LEFT OF THE PAGE.. REMEMBER A CLEAN POOL IS A SAFER POOL .. JAY THE POOL PUMP MOTOR REPAIR GUY IN LONGWOOD FLORIDA ..

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

It could be the pump is bound up but it is more likely the motor is failing. It may be a small part such as the capacitor or the starting switch, but could also be more severe such as the winding itself. You will also want to examine the shaft where it passes thru the pump and motor and look for signs of rust from a pump seal leak. Start with the capacitor if one is present. Use a digital multi-meter (DMM), preferably with a capacitor setting, or an analog meter set for Ohms. With an analog, you should see the needle deflect as if testing a closed circuit then it will slowly drop to 0 if the capacitor is good. If it doesn't move or moves and stays to the side showing a closed circuit the capacitor is bad. If you notice a burn hole near the terminals on the end of the capacitor do not bother to test it. If you do not have access to a meter you can try grounding the posts together with a screwdriver to see if they arc although it is not a very reliable test method. Be sure you are holding on to an insulated handle for the tool you use to short the terminals together or you can get a good poke. Next check the internal stationary start switch for continuity thru the contacts. Bent or burned up points and arms can cause a startup failure...you may need a new part if yours is more than bent out of position. Finally check the winding for grounds and shorts...if you find any it is most likely time for a new motor. If you are not familiar with testing these parts your best bet would be a local electric motor repair shop to see if the motor can be repaired or if it would need to be replaced. They should also be able to ensure there is no pump damage. If you wish to continue to try to repair it yourself please comment with any questions you have as you work thru the pump and motor.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details or contact me thru our site at www.arrowpools.net prior to rating the answer; I'll do what I can to help. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

the motor is straining under a load switch back to the other wiring it was set at.

First, separate wet end of pump from motor.If not already off, take diffuser off. Remove back cover of motor and hold center shaft with either a wrench on the flats of the shaft or a large screwdriver on the end of the shaft.(It all depends on which motor you have.) Then just unscrew impeller. (Some larger hp motors have a reverse threaded screw holding impeller also.) You may need a large pair of pliers but be careful not to score the impeller.