Top 20 Xantrex Technology Heart Freedom 20 12 Inverter Questions & Answers

if there is no extraordinary load your breaker may just be worn out. Unless you know what your'e doing don't mess around in the box! Get a electrician.

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Am sorry but I have same problem and have tried manufacturer with no response,Jeremy

The other thing to consider is that auxiliary batteries need charge while sitting, plugged in, which can be accomplished other ways.

Is the inverter configured for correct type of batteries? Did inverter come with temperature sensor what should be connected to battery to prevent overheating? Are batteries in good condition, acid level, clean posts etc?

Check with BR Wholsale, Marshall Mi or Marysville Marine, Marysville, MI they do some service work and may have additonal insight on how to resolve or find parts.

That device is basically an simple UPS - it takes the DC voltage from a big deep-cycle battery that is recharged both by the unit itself (the converter part) and by a separate alternator and inverts it in 110 v AC. The only difference with the small pc units that you should always have in your house is the size and power. Because of that the functioning of the unit is different from that of a normal residential wiring - the final output comes directly from a transformer and because of that there is no actual difference on the contacts = both are hot. In your case it appears that the unit has been incorrectly installed. Here http://www.solarcellsales.com/techinfo/docs/New458Manual.pdf you can find the instruction on the correct install of the unit. If the wiring is done correctly then the unit is shorted internally - it will have to be opened, tested and to short fixed.

There are a couple of possibilities. 1. Fuse, 2. Bad Battery and 3. Damaged Mosfet. Honestly I am not familiar with this model, but as far as I know, inverters having output problem means battery or the mosfets (Transistors).
Check the Fuse and make sure it's still working, I would suggest you to replace it. For more details about compatible fuse, please refer to the user manual (click HERE).
If you have extra battery, you can try with it to verify whether the problem is with the battery or not. But if you don't have a spare battery I wouldn't suggest you to get a new one since these kind of batteries are quite expensive. Well, did you smell burnt plastic or rubber or etc? Did you see smoke came out from the machine? Did you hear any cracking or bursting/exploding sound? Actually, it's important to know how this started, whether without any sign of damage or it just stopped while it was using or one of the things I've asked. If you are not familiar with mosfets and transistors, I won't recommend you to try yourself, instead take it to the service center or take it to a local electronic repair shop and get it fixed.
I don't mean it's should be only with the Mosfet and the battery, but there are other components that could cause the problem, I am only telling you the most likeliest possibilities.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck.
Thanks for using FixYa.

Welcome to FixYa!

The LINK 1000 comes with a feature called "LOCK SETTINGS". This features prevents the user to accidentally make any changes to the unit.

You nee to unlock it first before you can make any changes to the settings.

To unlock: 1. Hold down SET until SEL appears. 2. Press SEL until the LOCK LED comes on. 3. Press SET. The word ON or OFF appears 4. If ON appears, press SET to turn the lock OFF.

Thank you for using Fixya, have a great day.

Jas247

Your unit is asked to supply too big of a load for its design. Some of the appliances you are powering may have large capacitors in them. The capacitors make a big drain on the power supply initially until they are "charged". As they take a big drain, the inverter starts going "haywire" and eventually sees this as an overload situation and shutsdown. When you restart, the capacitors in the appliances are already charged enough so you don't have such a big load on the inverter so it runs normally.

It may take the capacitors in the applicances 10 minutes to several hours to discharge depending on how they are designed. There may even be some capacitors in the inverter that need to be charged and it is causing the drain itself.

You can try to start it with most of your applicances turned off to see if the same thing happens. You can turn appliances on one-by-one after that. You can also do some tests for the next week with one specific appliance left on to see if one particular applicance may be causing the issue. Large electric motors (air conditioners, pumps, whole house fans, ...) have large capacitors and my be causing the issue.

good luck.

-Mark

Sound to me that you has a (N) Diode, a transistor or a capacitor that is open or shorted out. Check the board near the Negative (N) side of the fan where the N wire are connected and check the Diodes, capacitior or transistors in that ares. To check the Diode just unsolder (Float) one end of the Diode get a DMM set it on Diode. First look at the Doide and you will see a sort of a white stripe on one end of the Diode, that end is the Cathode the oposite end is the anode, now get the DMM with it sat on Diode place the red or + probe on the anode then place the black probe on the cathode and you should get a reading depending on the size diode but the reading should be somwhere at 8.79 good reading, now change the prober on the other sides with the red probe on the cathode and the black probe on the anode, you should get no readind at all, if you get any reading the Diode is shorted and should be replaced. Now look on the Diode, get the letter/s and numbers and try to cross it with a NTE, ECG there should be an electronic supplier in you area. Now you can't stop here, you still have to look for the signs of a capacitor with a slight bulge on top, if you see either one with a bulge unsolder one pin of the capacitor look at the capacitor side for the voltage and uf (farad) set the DMM set it on uf or this sign ( -I(- ) check the uf value, it more then 4uf below the rated value change it out, if it read above 10uf change it out. Now we come to the Transistor, there should be two transistors near this area, first look on the bottom on the board whare these transistors are soldered, look for a black or brown spot near the solder pins, look with a magnyfing glass and check to see if the pins don't have cold solder joints (CSJ's) or loose, you has to look at these solder CSJ's real close, sometime these loose solder joints are hard to see, if you come across any CSJ"s clean and resolder the pin, if there are no un-soldered pins unsolder the two outer pins, but before we start the transistor check you have to now there are several types of transistors but the most common is the NPN or PNP, the PNP with the transistor facing you the left pin is (B) or base, center (C) or collector, right pin is (E) emitter, the NPN transistor facing you the right pin will be (E) emitter, center pin (B) base, right pin (C) collector, to realy know which transistor it is you will have to get the number of the transistor then look it up in an NTE cross reference book, just let us say this is a PNP transistor, place the red probe on the center pin and the black probe on the pin on the right side, there should be no reading at all, good, now place the black probe on the center pin and the red probe on the left pin and again there should be no reading, good, now take the red probe and set it on the left pin and the black probe on the right pin there should be no reading, good, now place the red probe on the right pin and the black probe on the left pin and there should be a deading close to 2.725 if you get a reading on more then two legs the transistor is shorted, replace it. Now this sounds like a lot of work, believe me, it's not, I almost sure that when you open the unit, look at all the components on the inside, check to see that there are no burnt or smell burnt components, turn it over you will probably come across a CSJ and if you do, clean and re-solder it then ckeck the unit, sound like an easy fix. Good luck.

First check the voltage, if the voltage is good then check the hertz with a different meter because if the hertz went up to 120 everything onboard should have burnt out. The hertz works on the low voltage side of 120vac. before going to a repair shop first check the hertz meter. Good luck.

Is the water level good?
Perhaps the battery is at the end of it's usable life.

Hi.

Ensure that you have selected the correct battery type in inverter settings. Hold down the invert button for 5 seconds to reset the inverter. A better reset is done removing battery (with inverter not connected). This will reset the inverter completely.

Here a manual.

Regards.

Ginko.

Second Freedom 25 inverter/charger...first one repaired, this one went to fault...started microwave on fire, fried the satillite receiver and possibly other components....installing a Mangnum....."do not let anyone rebuild the Freedom 25" First time about $900.00 to rebuild...this time about $9000.00 with components it fried. Fleetwood LLC Corporate knows of problems and only offer to sell you the conversion kit for about $4200.00....bankruptcy sanctifies previous problems "they" left with us.

yes, there is a fuse on the inside of the inverter that protects the circuit board. open the case and replace the fuse.

c...

Check the in-line fuse on the 12 volt battery positive battery cable to see if it's blown.