Hello, that resolution should be available but only at a refresh rate of 60hz as per the specs pasted below. Can you see this resolution setting on your graphics card? If not then perhaps you need to check you have the latest driver for your graphics card and just make sure that your graphics card does support that setting anyway.
Display
Diagonal Size
15"
Viewable Size
14"
Dot Pitch / Pixel Pitch
0.28 mm
Max Resolution
1024 x 768 / 60 Hz
Max Sync Rate (V x H)
120 Hz x 54 kHz
Video Bandwidth
65 MHz
Factory Preset Resolution Modes1024 x 768 / 60 Hz 800 x 600 / 85 Hz 640 x 400 / 70 Hz 640 x 480 / 75 Hz 640 x 480 / 60 Hz 800 x 600 / 75 Hz
The monitor is "dying". Since it's only 15 inches, and since it's a CRT, it's time to responsibly recycle the monitor, and buy a new, 17" (or larger) LCD screen.
Your monitor appears to have a CRT type picture tube and that means LETHAL VOLTAGES are inside!
"I" would unplug the monitor and remove the back shell. I DO NOT recommend YOU do this...
"I" would NOT go near the HIGH VOLTAGE PICTURE TUBE OR THE POWER SUPPLY!
"I" also KNOW that HIGH VOLTAGE can be stored in ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS for a LONG TIME... even with the cord DISCONNECTED and the Monitor OFF!!
This can be enough voltage to KILL YOU several times over. Even the PICTURE TUBE can store HUGE charges!
*** LOOK at the picture below... EVERYTHING BLACK on that TUBE can KILL ME (or you).***
With the shell removed, using a high-powered flashlight "I" would inspect every part "I" could see ...
Next "I" would "put one hand in my pocket" and start tapping components INSIDE the monitor with a PENCIL ERASER end of a pencil to determine WHICH part or connector is MOST sensitive? This includes the TOPS of ICs too.
Note: My hand in the pocket ASSURES only ONE of MY hands receives a possible unexpected shock!
Most times it's a cold solder join at ANY connection or (electronic) JUNCTION point. And sometimes it's a "almost burnt" component like a resistor... etc. This is especially true for POWER RESISTORS because some get so HOT they actually unsolder the joint at the circuit foil ! "I KNOW".
Sometimes connector PINS get corroded too... so "I" would check connectors too!
AT ALL TIMES "I" would AVOID THE HIGH VOLTAGE POWER SUPPLY AREA.
PS, My out-of-control CLONE made me type this.Anthony
The theft deterrence option is available from the SmartControl software that runs on a Windows PC connected to the 276E monitor. See https://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/276E8VJSB_27/4k-ultra-hd-lcd-monitor/support . Scroll down to the Software & drivers section. Then unzip the file to install it.
Inside the software, the theft deterrence item is under the Options section of the menu. Since a PIN is needed to enable or disable the "feature". It seems unlikely to be enabled accidentally. Did someone else use the monitor for a while? Are you using a different computer with the Philips 276E?
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
There could be a few different issues that could cause the behavior you're describing. Here are a few possibilities:
HDMI connection issue: Make sure the HDMI cable is properly connected to both the TV and the laptop. If you're using a HDMI splitter or HDMI switch, make sure those are also properly connected.
HDMI port issue: If you've tried multiple HDMI cables and still have the issue, there could be an issue with the HDMI port on the TV or laptop. You could try a different HDMI port on the TV or laptop, or use a different device to see if the issue persists.
Display settings: Make sure the display settings on the laptop are set to display on the external monitor (the TV in this case). If the laptop is set to display on the built-in monitor, it may cause the display to flash on and off.
Hardware issue: If none of the above solutions help, there could be a hardware issue with the TV or laptop. It's possible that the display controller or other hardware component is faulty and causing the display to flash on and off. In this case, it may be necessary to have the device repaired or replaced.
I hope this helps! If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
No disc in tray Press Home Scroll to settings input code: 13893108520 The settings will pop up and you will see that the DVD region is now set to 0 (meaning region free). I have checked the hack on a BDP8000 (region 2)and it sets the region to 0 (the 7th. digit from the left) alright, but it does not make the player region free as a message from the disc (MGM) comes and tell that the disc is not supposed to be played in this region. The region on the player can be changed to the region by changing the "x" in 138931x8520 to the actual region you want to play.Try this out. The hack codec for blue ray are not yet published so it is not possible to make Blue Rays totally region free as of now.
NO model toldwell in a shop lacking the $100 service manual what do they do?amazing fact they look inside for any coin cell at alljust look, firstdismantle it look/some have sockets and others are soldered down or , there is no such thing.why not stated what works and does not and ask fordiagnostics help. steps.yes batteries fail, all there not changed out yet?if only remote dead it too has batteriesis UNIT DEAD is screen dead, or stuckis wifi only failing.is it struck in stand by mode?page 33 do the RESET YET?lost AC powerlost AC power pack or using the wrong pACK>water dripped in to the unitlclicker dead.no evidence told so answers will be impossible.Philips NP2500/37 WiFi Internet Radio Network Music Player with Rhapsody my wide guess on real name.did you read trouble page in your lost manual.?but only covers wifi. https://www.download.p4c.philips.com/files/n/np2500_37/np2500_37_dfu_eng.pdf
simply long press input and power touch buttons to reset the ic program and it will be ok be sure to wait 5-10 seconds note: be sure the led has display input and powered on with the problem your encounting thanks ok
now a photo review on just buttons (physical) on MON 227E
open the window (physical) in room to get some sun light.
or use a TORCH (usa flashlight )
and look at all 6 sides of the monolith, main display panel
go slow and just look first, as the manuals do stink at makers site (new ones)
next see year and real models, only manuals matched work
learn to tell model, and or learn to google them by exact model
or go to philips.com and get it for free.
2012 models too, 10 years ago and are not the same.
one some the model is full and on the bottom stand label.
older 2012 ,227e4LHab/00(Germany)
that is the best I can do , this side of huge pond
we have none here,.