How to replace fuse in a waring pro waffle maker
The fuse is inside, clamped to the bottom iron.
Swing the top open. There are 4 small screws, two metric M3 flatheads in the front pivot, two self tapping near the hinge, that hold the bottom iron in place.
Often the M3 screws will become fused to the captive nuts. Using the correct size cross-point screwdriver, position it in one of the pivot end screws, and while holding it firmly directly in line with the screw, give the screwdriver a sharp tap on the end of the handle, as if it were a chisel. Repeat with the other front pivot screw.
If the screw does not unscrew with a minimum of force, repeat the tapping procedure. If this does not work, use a 1/8" metal bit to drill through the screw heads. Remove the rear screws.
There is a spring-loaded pin running through the front pivot halves. Press it in and carefully swing the bottom grid upward. Turn the iron upside down. At the rear of the irons, you'll see where the wires enter from the rear support. Find the metal clip holding down a piece of white rubbery tubing. Remove the screw and clip. The temperature-limiting fusible link is inside the tubing.
Push the tubing toward one side until the wire crimp is seen. On the fuse side of each crimp,AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CRIMP, clip the lead. Remove the tubing and clip the other lead.
Take two uninsulated crimp-style spade lugs for 20 ga wire, and clip off the spade ends. The crimp ends will be your new crimp connector.
From the iron's leds, remove the old crimps. Strip just enough jacket for the exposed wire ends to match the length of the new crimp connectors.
Take the stripped lead that is toward the iron's terminal, insert into a crimp connector. Insert one end of the new fuse in the other end so the overlapping leads each just reach the opposite end of the connector. Crimp in place.
Slide the tubing over the fuse and push it toward the iron. (The loom tubing on the other wires will compress to permit this).
Connect the other end of the new fuse to the remaining stripped wire with the second crimp connector.
If you had to drill out the M3 screws (I did), use a vice grip wrench to grasp the remaining shaft with as little compression as possible and remove. The threads of the captive nuts should be ok. Replace the screws with M3 flat head crosshead screws and antiseize compound of the threads.
Notes:
1. The most common reason for thermal fuse failure is running the iron empty with the top raised.
2. I got replacement fuses via ebay 4/$2, M3 screws at Ace Hardware @$0.19.
3. All the wires inside the iron are insulated with high temperature silicone or non-melting jackets. Stripping requires an electricians stripper/crimper with a 20-22 ga cutter. More force is needed to strip these wires than you might expect. You'll find it much easier if you hold the wire being stripped with a pliers while stripping.
