A heatpump has two sources of heat. One is when the heatpump is operating in normal heat mode, and the other is typically electric heat strips.
The strips come on when the unit is going into defrost, when the unit is not able to keep up with the demand for heat (really cold temps) and when the unit is not working properly.
Whne the strips are on, the T-stat displays "aux-heat" to indicate the strips are in operation.
If the strips are working properly you should have warmer air than with the HP alone. Try switchin it from "heat" to "emergency heat" and see what it will do.
When the HP is not able to keep up with the demand for heat then the heat strips come on, but they typically come on only when the room temp has gotten well below the thermostat setting.
In that situation it would be normal to see indoor temps at 63 degrees when the T-stat is set on 70.
But when you set it to E-heat it bypasses the heatpump operation and goes directly to the heat strips. If they are working properly it should maintain an accurate temp in the home.
You obviously have a heat pump. A heat pump is basically an air condition running in reverse. By way of example, during the summer time you will notice cold air coming from you vents and hot air being blown out of the outside section of you unit. And in the winter time it switches the flow of refrigerant (freon) and sends the hot air inside and the cold air out. So when the temp drops below about 45 and/or there is a high demand for heat inside the aux light will come on. When this happens it bring in the resistance heat (back up heat stripes) to accommodate for the added need for heating. Heat stripes do in fact burn a lot of electricity. My suggestion to you is not to make more than 5 degree increments of temp rise at a time on your t-stat. For instance if it is 50 inside, set the t-stat to 54, as the temp in the house rises you may continue to raise you setpoint...just never more than 5 degrees of room temp. Otherwise there is not much you can do for it on your own.
Let's start out by your statement that the fan would not run, then you changed the contactor, not it won't stop running.
I believe, based on your info, here's what you need to do. Kill power to the unit. The 2 wires bringing power to the outdoor unit should be on the top 2 terminals. The 2 fan wires should be on the bottom 2 terminals. This is providing that the contactor is mounted Vertical. The could be an outside chance that the unit has a short in it and you are getting voltage feedback somewhere.
Take another look.
Standard hook up for Heat pump.
Red wire----------R
Green-------------G
Blue----------------C
Yellow-------------Y
Orange------------O
White--------------W1 with a jumper to E sometimes will also say Aux, varies with Manif. of T-stat.
Since you filed this under AZ55H09, I'll assume that's the unit we are talking about. I have a copy of the old installation manual for the AZ55. I have placed it on our web site. You can download here. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Greg McNary Air Distributors Company Inc. Louisville, KY 800-866-1210
hi there,
there is an overload protection and safety devices of all air conditioner but there are not using internal fuse,if we are talking of fusable fuses,sometime internally the compressor has a thermistor inside the winding to protect motor from burning,but most common use is the over load thermostatic relay which you can find on control panel board,there a level which you just push it to reset,some are auto thermostatic overload protection this will automatically reset when unit tend to cool motor.one more is the circuit breaker on main supply of unit.push this up to reset.thermostat on evaporator are safety device it will cut off your
compressor supply if the temperature was acquired on the setting.
so if your unit does not run even your switching on this are common factor to be checked.have a nice day and don't forget to rate me.thank's
I don't have the book for this particular unit but, check the sequencers that control the electric heat mode, as the regulator heat pump works good. The part may have a time or temperature delay that is too long for you. Also if it has a remote thermostat, check the heat anticipate setting. You will have to check the installation manuel, but its usually .6 to .8, but I don't think that is the problem.
Impossible to say. There are a lot of variables here. Which country, and which model. Even different cities would charge different prices. It is a gas appliance, so you can't work on it yourself.
Just for information, we are Fixya dot com, we aren't GE, we don't do pricing for them.
The only way is to ask a local appliance shop. A good way is to ask for a recommendation on a local Facebook group where you live.
