20 Most Recent General Electric WHDRE526EWW Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Can you move the transmission pulley by hand both directions forward and backward? If not, bad transmission. As I vaguely recall wash cycle motor goes in one direction, for the spin cycle it goes in the opposite direction. So my guess is the "reversing" also known as flipflop switch. A headlight dimming relay is such a switch. The switch may be a problem a problem. You may be able to test this theory by energizing different leads and observing motor direction. There may be a diagram Identifying leads. You may be able to verify my "vague" recall by Google washing machine motor function/s or google motor number and see if it is a reversible motor. The online appliance parts guys are usually very helpful. Ask about reversing switch I'm sure they have some answers. The switch is probably reversed by a momentary signal just as the signal for head light dimming is a momentary voltage signal. So know you know how to live test the reversing switch. If it doesn't reverse. It is most likely the problem. However, if it does test out as good, your signal from the "clock" is bad. Hope this helps.

I had the same issue as well. A friend of mine, who does appliance repair said the control board was bad. Had a 5 yr extended protection plan so warranty repair, otherwise looking at @$500. Fixed the problem and have not had it since then (almost 2 yrs now). Hope this helps.

There is a pressure sensor that needs to be looked into. USUALLY, there is a chamber, on the outside of the washer tub, and out of the top of it is a small plastic hose. This hose runs up to an electrical switch.
Too much soap, over time, can plug up this system, so the machine has no idea how much water is going in...and keeps filling..... Sometimes the hose comes loose, but this makes a fairly immediate water leak, so I suspect something is plugged.
Doc

The water is syphoning out the drain. Make sure the drain hose is not sealed to the drain stand pipe it drains into, and make sure the top of the drain stand pipe is higher than the washers tub. Try to extend it with a coupling and a peice of pipe up to 36 inches.

Several of the washing machine controls are also responsible for the washing machine not draining, continuing to fill or fillng too slowly. If the washer doesn't want to drain or stop filling, the issue could be the pressure switch. When water enters the machine, water also fils a tube in the pressure reaches a certain point, it triggers a switch that will stop the machine from filling. Locate this pressure switch on your machine and look for damage. If you have a multimeter, use it to find any electrical issues. If there is no reading, the pressure switch needs to be replaced.

Hello,

There are several reasons that a washing machine won't drain or spin. The cause could be something as easy as a clog or something difficult that will need a licensed repairman. Start with the simplest possible cause and work down to the more difficult causes.

INSTRUCTION BELOW

A washing machine won't spin if the water can't drain. Check hoses for any kinks or clogs that may prevent the water from draining. If a hose has kinks, try to straighten out the kinked hose. If it can't be straighten sufficiently, replace the hose. If hoses are not kinked, check for clogged hoses. This can be done by using the screwdrivers to remove the hoses and looking for clogs or running a water hose through the clogged hose to remove the clog. Use the rags and bucket to clean up the water that comes out of the hoses when they are disconnected. Once the clog is cleared, put the drain hose back into place. The washer should drain and spin now if a clogged or kinked hose was the problem.

2 If the washer still won't drain or spin, check to see if the lid is not closing all the way or if the lid switch is not clicking into place. Close the lid and make sure that it closes all the way down. When the lid closes, the lid switch should click. If there is no clicking sound, then the switch may need to be replaced. Follow manufacturer's directions for replacing the switch. If the lid does not close all the way, visually check for signs that the lid is bent. If bent, try to bend it back into place.

3 Loose or broken belts could also prevent a washing machine from draining or spinning. Pull the washer away from the wall and, using the screwdrivers and wrenches, remove the back panel. Using the flashlight, visually check for any broken or loose belts. Replace any broken or loose belts. Although replacing washing machine belts is difficult, anyone who has replaced belts on a car, lawn mower or even a bicycle chain should be able to accomplish the task.

4 Another possibility for a washing machine to not spin or drain is the pump. With the back panel still off the washer, check the pump with the voltmeter to ensure that the pump is getting power. If the washer is getting power, turn on the washer and listen to find out if the pump is running but the water is still not draining. It may be necessary to remove the pump and clean it or to replace the pump with a new one. Once the pump is replaced, turn on the washer to determine if it will now drain and spin.

5 If all of the above steps fail to produce a washing machine that drains or spins, then it is time to call a professional repairman. Use the screwdrivers and wrenches to replace the panel on the washer and push it back against the wall.

rate this.

Thanks and good luck.

check to see if the belt is still attached.. hope it helps...

you need to check the pressure switch and the hose that goes to it to make sure there are no holes in the hose.some of these switches can be reset.you should replace it if you can not reset it

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Probably a bad water valve.

This training manual will help.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,
The soleniod valve is bad.... here is a tip that will help...the problem you have is with the same part but the opposite problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3880845-washing_machine_problems_no_water

heatman101

Your transmission is still good that is why it still agitating and spinning. The culprit is the pulley. The transmission pulley is a part of spinning mechanism including the clutch, and the brake. The clutch and the brake are hardly needing replacement, but the pulley. Good luck.

I wish I had a solution, I have the same issue. My WHDRE526EWW Top Load washer stops intermittently sometimes while filling up, sometimes while rinsing, sometimes while washing and sometimes while spinning. I just have to guess when it's going to stop and check on each load frequently to restart it when it stops. Sometimes I can't even get it to start spinning again and I will have to unplug it and plug it back in and then it will spin. Hope someone can help!

I think your problem is due to a marginal design of the motor. The motor overheats and an thermal proection device prevents the motor from running while the timer times out the spin cycle. My motor gets hot enough to boil water (in excess of 212F). When the motor cools down, it's back to normal. The solution is to replace it with a NOT GE washer

I gotta congratulate you for taking on the toughest job on your washer. The transmission replacement is daunting if you've never done one before.

OK... about your question.

Here's a place with detailed instructions (and pictures) on how to do the 2X4 trick. If after doing that you still can't get it, then try tapping (actually a little more than just "tapping") the agitator with a rubber mallet. This will (hopefully) loosen any rust on the splined shaft allowing the 2X4 to do its' job.

As a last resort, you can get yourself an "Agi-Tamer". It's a tool that we in the appliance repair biz use for just this problem. It's a snazzy little gizmo that fits between the bottom of the agitator and the tub. It has a water hose connected to it... you then take that hose and put it on the cold water valve behind the washer. Then you slowly open the valve filling the Agi-Tamer with water. As it fills, it expands and forces the agitator to lift with it. You have to be careful, though. I've seen agitators fly off the shaft like a cork from a champagne bottle! So if you go this route, put your 2X4 over the agitator as the Agi-Tamer fills to keep it from flying, OK?

(*NOTE* ---> the link to the Agi-Tamer above shows one designed to use air pressure, not water (like the one I use). I've never used one with air, but it appears that it'll hook up to a bicycle tire pump or one of those inflatable swimming pool toy electric pumps. Just a word of caution here... knowing what I do about Hydraulics and Pneumatics, the pneumatic model WILL MOST DEFINITELY BLOW THE AGITATOR OFF THE SHAFT!!! So, take care if you use that model, OK?

Now where to get one. This is a specialty tool sold to appliance repair guys (and girls... although I've never HEARD of an appliance repair girl). You may try calling a local appliance parts retailer and see if they have one in stock or look around on the web. They run about $50, so it's kinda pricey to buy it only to be using it once... why not call an appliance repair company and explain what you're trying to do. Ask them if any of their technicians carry an Agi-Tamer on board their sevice vans. Then maybe work out a deal to rent it or borrow it. Or you may simply schedule one of their technicians to come over and remove the agitator FOR you. <--- That's probably the way to go, btw. Using an Agi-Tamer is kinda dangerous and a reputable company might not want to take on the liability of you using one of theirs just in case you poke your eye out or something.

So there ya go, KR! I hope this solution was satisfactory for you and that it helps you get that pesky agitator off. If it did, please remember to rate me as "it solved my problem", deal?

SG

Geo,

The answer to your question is most definitely NOT what you want to hear, but I'll go ahead and deliver the bad news... (don't hate the messenger, OK?)

The transmission is shot. There, I said it.

Here's what is going on... See? When the washer fills and begins to agitate, the inner tub (where the clothes are) is supposed to "lock". The only thing that's supposed to actually move in there is the agitator. OK... now when the washer advances to "spin mode", the tranny switches gears (think of it like going from "drive" to "reverse") and the inner tub unlocks and is spun up by the tranny.

Your inner tub is not being locked by the transmission when it's in "agitate". When this happens, the inner tub begins to rotate with every stroke of the agitator (the thing in the middle of the tub). So, the tub continues to rotate... faster and faster, until the water in the tub rises because of centrifugal force. Eventually, the water rises high enough to overflow... that's where your overflow tube (and the leak you see) comes into play.

OK, Geo... there's good news if your washer is less than 5 years old. Can you believe it? Good news! The transmission is covered by a 5 year warranty. Yeahhh! Don't worry if you don't have you original paperwork for it. You don't need it. All you'll need to do is copy the exact model and serial numbers down (<-- they're located above and behind the control panel on a white sticker) and holler at GE (1-800-GE-CARES). Give 'em the M# and S# and they'll be able to tell if it's covered or not. Just tell 'em that you had an appliance repair company diagnose you machine with a "failed transmission" and you need to schedule a service guy to come replace it.

If it more than 5 years old, you ask? Well my friend... you are the proud owner of a very large boat anchor cuase that's all it worth right now. The reason being is that a transmission replacement (if you hire it done) would cost far more than the washer is actually worth. Obviously, it's possible to replace on your own... but I would NOT recommend it unless you are very very comfortable with tolls and have many of them accessible to you. The transmission itself would set you back about ~$140.00 (which is more than you'd spend on a good used Whirlpool washer from craigslist or classified ads).

So there ya go. I hope that the information/news I gave you was enough for you to decide which direction to go from here. If it was, please rate my solution here as "It solved my problem". Thanks for using FixYa!

SG