Hi, I want to remove my clutch shaft seal of my 1997 BMW 650F but can't get the shaft out. How does one do this. Thanks, S

Check that it is not the rear of the sump gasket that is leaking. If not then the fix will be to remove the gear box. If manual the leak may be at the clutch shaft input seal which is relative minor fix. If auto it will be torque converter seal and shaft seal . A bit more expensive. It it is the rear main seal then the clutch ( if applicable) and flywheel have to come off as well. All in all about $20.00 dollars for seal and about 6 hours labour.

IF it is a front seal on an automatic --pull the box . If a rear seal on an auto then remove the drive shaft and lever the seal out and tap in a new seal finishing flush with the housing all the way round If a manual box and it is a front seal the box has to come out and the clutch shaft housing ( bit the throw out bearing slides on taken of and the seal fitted in side at the end . IF a rear seal do the same as for the auto box.

It is located on the transmission input shaft collar of the transmission inside the bell housing.

I am dealing with this now on my 2001 R1200C. Is there fluid in the clutch slave cylinder? Full? if not then fill it and work the lever quite a few times does the level go down? if so refill it and do it again. Do you see signs of fluid on the ground under the bike just behind the engine basically where the rear swing arm pivots? Mine after a couple reservoirs full showed a few drips on
the floor. If so the Hydraulic slave cylinder is gone and must be replaced. Ok 2
theories here.

#1. you can replace the slave only, flush and bleed the system and ride it
and hope for the best. I would suggest pulling the clutch pressure shaft and making sure there is no wear on the ends that goes into the slave. Mine did and I had to replace it also. or there is

#2. I was informed when the slave goes it pumps the brake fluid into the bell housing where the clutch is. The input shaft to the gearbox is right there and I was informed brake fluid can get on the gearbox input shaft seal and it can soften and eventually it will fail. Then if the gear box grease gets on the new slave cylinder it can cause the seals in it to soften and eventually go out. I personally have talk to 2 people who
replaced the slave and in 20,000 miles had it go again but found the gearbox
seal was also leaking. I opted for number 2 but beware it is an extensive job.
Basically you remove the entire rear of the motorcycle including rear frame, (See photo) swing arm, air box and (well everything from the bar that goes across the bike for the center stand to slip onto) all back from there. I did not feel comfortable doing the gearbox seals so I took it to my local BMW shop and they
are charging 180.00 bucks to replace "all" 8 seals in the gearbox, clean up the sludge all over the gearbox from the brake fluid leaking as well as change the gearbox grease so that it is all handled. I pick it up Tuesday afternoon and it will be ready to install and put all back together.

I was going to go to the slave only thing but to be honest when both of the people I talked to advised me they had a shop do the whole thing after the second failure and it was 2700 bucks. I cant afford that so I decided I would do it. I was also worried if the gearbox seal went and I didnt catch it soon enough I didn\'t want to find out I have some damage done to the gearbox which would just get crazy expensive (I assume).
Hope this helps.

If all your clutch problems have been caused by oil leaks, make sure the mechanic working on the bike this time installs all new seals in the transmission and the crankshaft seal on the rear of the engine. Since the input shaft is hollow, you must replace both the seals (on each end) as well as the clutch pushrod felt. Check the clutch slave cylinder too as these have been known to leak.

BMW updated the input shaft seals a while ago, so once you get the new seals CORRECTLY installed your problem should go away.

BTW, was the clutch done at 15,000 by an authorized dealer?? If so, there should be some warranty as BMW gives a two year warranty on repairs done by authorized dealers. If the clutch disc is worn out due to abuse, then that is a different story. Might be wise to investigate if you are entitled to some warranty coverage due to the leaking seals.

To redo the shaft would require a machining tool and that means removing the input shaft, with the bother I would replace with standard parts since you would have to tear it down anyway..... Just a small amount of eccentricity would cause vibration.....

alignment tool to align the clutch plate with the crankshaft when you are bolting the pressure plate back on. Also since you have the drive shaft off relube the splines with the correct grease.

The clutch arm where the cable connects is on the left and it connects to the clutch via a shaft that pushes a rod which then pushes a ball bearing sitting in the holder and then the holder pushes the clutch operating plate to dis-engage the clutch. The only seal is on the clutch arm shaft that goes into the casing. At worst, only the springs on the operating plate would need to be removed then a 1/4" inward push on the rod from the right side would give clearance for the shaft to be inserted.
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Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

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Hi,yes it will be easier for you to remove the transfer case first.The weight is off center when you remove both at one time.You will have a hard time trying to realine the input shaft and clutch components when you reinstall,if you dont seperate the two.Dont forget to rate this answer.Thanks. Good Luck!!!