20 Most Recent 2001 BMW R 1150 GS Questions & Answers

The kill switch on a BMW R1150GS motorcycle is designed to immediately shut off the engine in case of an emergency or accident. If you need to replace the kill switch on your R1150GS, you can follow these general steps:

1. Disconnect the battery to avoid any electrical hazards.
2. Remove the handlebar grip on the side where the kill switch is located. You can do this by loosening the screws that hold it in place and gently pulling it off.
3. Locate the kill switch module on the handlebar and disconnect the wiring harness from the switch. Depending on the year and model of your R1150GS, you may need to remove the switch from the module by using a screwdriver or Allen wrench to remove any screws or bolts that hold it in place.
4. Install the new kill switch by reversing the steps used to remove the old one. Connect the wiring harness to the switch and secure the switch to the handlebar or switch module using screws or bolts.
5. Test the new kill switch to make sure it works properly by reconnecting the battery and starting the engine.

It is important to note that these steps may vary depending on the specific year and model of your R1150GS. If you are unsure about how to replace the kill switch or are not comfortable doing so yourself, it is recommended that you take your motorcycle to a professional mechanic or BMW dealership for assistance.

It could be the gear position switch neutral switch on the rear of the gearbox if oil dripping from rear Could also be output shaft seal going A good site for help from other oil head riders is ukgsr as the only way to find leak is to remove drive parts till you find leak

Injectors are gummed up

Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture. As with white smoke, just a small drop of oil leaking into the cylinder can produce blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more likely in older or higher mileage vehicles than newer motorcycles with fewer miles.How did the engine oil get inside the cylinder in the first place? The car has many seals, gaskets, and O-rings that are designed to keep the engine oil from entering the cylinder, and one of them has failed. If too much oil leaks into the cylinder it sometimes cause's a misfire (engine miss) in that cylinder, Using thicker weight engine oil or an additive designed to reduce oil leaks might help reduce the amount of oil leaking into the cylinder.you can also get the pots pressure tested just to see if you have warn rings, or even leaky valve seals as this will cause the same fault, to find out if its the rings, just pressure test them first remove the spark plug,pressure test that pot, then record the reading, then pour some oil into the pot ( make sure you disconnect HT leads to stop it from running) then test again, if it is way higher then the rings are warn and need replacing, if it is roughly the same, a couple of psi/bar than the first test then its ok...hope this helps,

I had this with a Yamaha 900 it was the Ignition switch broken inside. I fixed my switch and all was well, you may need to replace new switch

Go to Sears or another large auto parts store and ask them to test the battery and chargeing system. They do it for free.

who told you that???? a wally or what?
im sorry to tell you the cluch slave cylinder has nothing to do with the cluch thrust bearing the slave cylinder only operates the cluch rod,, which inturn pushes on the cluch thrust bearing which then disengages the cluch,,,if the trust bearing is warn or wearing out it rumbles or starts a knocking sound from the gear box,, this noise gets worse as the cluch bearing wears out,, finaly it starts to realy screem,, bad like!!! the problem is,, you need a new cluch fitted to the bike which is far from cheep to get repaired,,,,,and its a big job too,
i hope this has put you right,,
good luck,,from1 biker 2 another

alignment tool to align the clutch plate with the crankshaft when you are bolting the pressure plate back on. Also since you have the drive shaft off relube the splines with the correct grease.

This happend to me when I put the new battery on, I held down the abs button for over 10 second, drove down the road and did not reset but when I turned the bike of then back on again it was cured

The drain plug for your bike should be on the botom of the engine. Remove the plug and drain the oil. Remove the oil filter and repalce it with a fresf one. Fill the new oil until the site glass or dip stick is at the correct marked level.

The problem you are having is most likely due to tight valves. Your exhaust should never get "red" unless you are running a turbo on the bike, in which case that is completely normal.
I would first check the exhaust system for blockages, these usually happen around couplers or in the diffuser in the rear of the exhaust. This is much like a catalytic converter going bad. Put your hand at the rear and make sure you are feeling good pressure coming out of the exhaust. I'd recommend you do this when the engine is not hot so you don't burn your hand. If you feel good pressure coming from the exhaust then you most certainly have tight exhaust valves and this need to be addressed very soon or you will cause serious damage to the engine.
Best of luck!
RSelvy

those are hex heads not oil heads such as yours. I havent seen it done yet. maybe you can be the first.