Clutch in .transmission in 1st gear ,wheel still turns . adjusted clutch still won't let you set in gear with clutch in ? any suggestions ?

You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.

If this doesn't help, then take it to a shop to see if it's simple worn clutch disks (easy to replace on this bike) or if the gears have worn teeth in the transmission.

Check the gear lever linkage adjustment, and the gear lever stick foundation.

Could be the clutch.
Reverse and first do not have gears that line up like the others do. So if the clutch is not disengaging all the way, they will grind.

It may not be the transmission, it could be the clutch or clutch pressure plate. Try double clutching (pump the clutch twice) before shifting.

It does sound like your clutch needs replacing. Adjusting the clutch may help but will not solve the problem. If the transmission has not been serviced for a long time it is a good idea to replace the transmission fluid, inspect the pressure plate. They may also start to wear.

I am not really understanding what is going on...
.. OK...With ALL the clutch components and the drive chain removed - can you (in each gear) SPIN the main transmission shaft ALOT( 20+ turns) in the correct (drive) direction?..I think its counterclockwise.

It is important to remove the drive chain and all clutch components to do this check. You are checking for a SINGLE CRACKED GEAR TOOTH .. the crack will be at the base of a tooth.

Do this check exactly as described.. you are checking the functionality of the transmission alone. - no clutch-no drive chain. If you do have a cracked tooth, the transmission will only rotate about 340 degrees in either direction.
If it was the clutch giving the problem, it would happen in ALL gears...

After the check.. repost and we'll go from there.

With the engine off, check your operation of the gear shift. If you can go in and out of the gears fine without the engine running, then you have a worn clutch disc that needs replaced. If the problem still exists then you either have low fluid/weak hydraulic system, or there is a problem with the syncro that may be adjusted.

This could be caused by a couple of things. One is that usually when you first start the ride for the day, the oil in the transmission is cold and thick. This makes the gears on the mainshaft and the countershaft turn with those shafts. When you try to shift into gear, the drive dog is not turning and it's trying to shift into a gear that is turning and doesn't want to stop due to the thick oil. You can avoid this by pulling the clutch in and holding it while the bike warms up.

The other problem could be that the clutch needs to be adjusted or you've go too much oil in the primary. Adjust the clutch as the manual says to adjust it. Make sure you don't have too much oil in the primary. If the oil level is too high, oil gets between the clutch drive plates when the clutch is disengaged. Then, the oil between the plates acts like the transmission fluid in the torque converter of an automatic transmission.

Loosen the clutch cable where it goes into the primary cover so that the maximum possible amount of slack is achieved. Remove the cover from the clutch, remove the spring, and the locknut. Turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise until it stops. Turn it back clockwise 1/4 turn. Insert the locknut, the spring and the plate. Screw the cable adjuster out until you have just a little freeplay. Work the clutch lever a couple of times and readjust the cable so that you've got 1/16" to 1/8" freeplay at the lever.

Good Luck
Steve

linkage too tight clutch going bad not enough fluid if hydraulic or low trans mission fluid levels check these areas 1st