How to wire a shovelhead engine on a rigid frame to make it start and run

I don't know about shovelhead? As far as automotive ignition coils I can talk to you in general terms. Is the there a distributor? Take coil wire loose from distributor, hold close to engine ground, have helper crank engine, do you see a spark jump? I have been shocked when doing this test, It hasn't killed me yet. I don't like getting shocked with secondary ignition voltage.
If you see spark jump nothing wrong with coil.
In the past, I have used digital multimeter on spark plug wire, the engine was running, you don't penetrate the spark plug wire and you don't take it loose, it's an inductive reading. Some of the readings were .6 or .7 volt, not a full volt. The I found reading that bouncing off zero, that's where I started testing and I found the problem.
I haven't tried that with just engine cranking, haven't had the need.

This Harley is 35 years old! Any bike or car of that genre is entitled to have used-up its starter. But Harleys, of course, can be easily repaired.

First, be certain your battery is healthy and that both your battery and starter have good, clean ground connections (a common problem on older machines). Check the starter's positive battery connection as well. Of course, you must also confirm that your engine is willing to turn over (no seized piston, failed bearing, stuck valves or bent push rods).

Next, go online or to a dealer and purchase a shop manual. The $30-$40 price will be recouped in saved labor costs on your very first repair. The manual will guide you in trouble-shooting the starter, starter solenoid, general wiring system, and anything else you want to repair on your machine. You will learn a lot and have fun!

Did you ever get it running Roy?

i doubt that one exists for a assembled bobber. but dude all you need are 3 wires on ignition switch 1 from the batt. 1 to the coil 1 to the lights if you want to rewire your bike (kick start only) very simple..1st post on the ignition switch (key switch), 1 wire, from the battery to the ignition. on the second post (key switch), 1 wire from the top post on the coil, (note on the bottom post of the coil another wire goes to your points), on the top post of the coil add 1 wire to one side of the brake light switch, then another wire from the other side of the brake light switch to the brake light, 3rd post (key switch), 2 more wires, 1 to the head light, 1 to the tail light (if you want high beam run a extra off the 3rd post to the hi lo switch then 1 from the hi lo switch to the head lights high beam wire)
last 1 wire from the regulator back to the battery.
you have just rewired your bike. if you have a electric starter then just add another from the 2cnd post (key switch) to the starter button, then 1 from the starter button back to the solenoid.

check ur coil hook up wires and ground they have to be just EXACTLY correct like instructiions tell u !wich wire to to the correct side of the coil

Here's a few different ones:

http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/custom_chopper_diagram.jpg

http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/custom_chopper2.jpg

http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/custom_chopper3.jpg

http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/custom_chopper4.jpg

http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/custom_chopper5.jpg

http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/custom_chopper6.jpg

Most likely this is due to a loose connection or other wiring problem which is stretches when the powertrain "swings" to the right when you make a left turn. This happens because the powertrain is mounted in flexible rubber mounts to allow some motion rather than a rigid mounting to the frame.
To determine if this is indeed what is happening, with the engine running and the car parked, open the hood and give the engine a hard push towards the passenger side of the engine compartment in order to simulate the motion of the drivetrain when you make a left turn.
If the engine cuts off, you may begin looking for wiring problems in the relevant locations

It' sounds like you've got an FXEF, the first Fat Bob bikes. To know for sure, you need to go by the frame number. Got to any site that list the "harley alphabet" to decode your frame VIN number. I'm pretty sure the "7G" designation on the engine indicates the 80" engine that was standard from 1980 on. The 80" engine was available prior to 1980 through special order only. The serial number (last five digits or so) should match the last five digits on your frame.

Good Luck
Steve

This problem is not as common on the Evolution and later engines as it was on the old Shovelhead engines. What causes the problem is the engine trying to start and "kicking back" against the starter. This will cause the starter drive to disengage with the starter ring gear on the clutch while it's trying to turn the engine. The noise is frightening and sounds like something tearing itself apart in the primary.

Like I said, the Evo and later engines don't do this as badly as the earlier Shovelhead engines did. Usually, the stock ignition system has to wait until a few revolutins of the engine occurs before the plugs start to spark. That's the purpose of the compression sensor on the Twin Cam engines.

Now, since you didn't tell me exactly what year model bike or ignition system your running, I'll generalize my answer. If you're still running the stock ignition, I'd check the timing on the engine and make sure it is not set too high. If you have an aftermarket ignition system, check the timing on it as well and if it is equpped with an "electric start / kick start" switch, make sure it's in the "electric start" position. This would probably only be revelent if you're riding a Shovelhead.

Like aaid earlier, this does happen from time to time but if it's happening too often, check the ignition system on your bike. Good Luck, Steve

The shop manual for shovels has a diagram in it .They're all the same except for xtra lights your bike probably doesn't have. Get the heritage book too for the front end wiring.Both have alt./stator/reg. so have at it.