I have a 1988 flhtp harley davidson police special.the neck lockigintion switch does not lock the neck anymore.the pin drops but doesnt line up with the hole no matter how i turn the handle bars it cl

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

SOURCE: installing handlegrips

Instructions Difficulty: Easy Things You’ll Need:

• Razor blade OR Air compressor
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Glue cleaner
• Soft cotton towel or cloth
• Warm water
• Pro taper grip glue

Step1 Decide which method you want to use to remove your old motorcycle grips. There are three methods in which you can use. The quickest would be with a razor blade. However, if you fear scratching the chrome or wires are underneath the grips, this may not be the best choice. An air compressor can help slide the motorcycle grips off with ease. However, if they are attached with adhesive, you may need to loosen the glue. A flat-head screwdriver may be your best bet with wires and glue. You can ease the screwdriver between the grip and the bar and pry it up gently without cutting wires or damaging the chrome. Step2 Pop off the bar end of the motorcycle handle. With a flat-head screwdriver, this should be simple. Be careful not to damage these pieces. The threads must be in tack to put them back on. If they become damaged, you will need to replace them. Step3 Using the desired method in step 1, remove the old motorcycle grips. Step4 Clean the old glue from the handle. This can be accomplished with any type of glue cleaner and a little elbow grease. When the glue has been removed, dry the handlebar completely with a soft cloth towel. Step5 Soak your new motorcycle grips in warm water to loosen them up a little bit. This will make it easier to install the grips quickly. Step6 Use your grip glue. You will want to add this around your handlebar where the grip will be placed. You will want to do this one side at a time. There are several methods that are recommended for this task. However, Pro Taper Glue seems to be the most recommended. Step7 Slide the motorcycle grips on each side. When they were soaked in warm water, it will be simpler to slide them on. Again, do one side first, then the other. Step8 Remove the excess glue and water with your cotton towel. This will clean up any mess left behind and give your motorcycle a pristine look. Step9 Let the glue dry for at least a couple of hours. The recommend time can be found on the glue of your choice. Step10 Replace the bar end gently. Be sure to screw it in until it cannot pop off again.

SOURCE: I have Harley Davidson 2000 Sportster 883. I

Neg cable corroded thru.
I bet you have 12v at the battery and less at the other end of the neg cable.
I had the same problem.

SOURCE: clutch cable broke at handle lever on 1979 harley davidson sporst

To change the clutch cable on you '79 Sporty, you'll have to take the outer primary cover off. To do this, you'll have to drain the oil from the primary, take the left side foot peg off, and loosen the primary chain adjuster on the bottom side of the primary. Loosen the locknut and use an allen wrench or hex key to screw the adjuster bolt downward.

If you need to know anything else, drop me a line at [email protected]

Then, remove the large "plug" towards the rear of the cover. Inside, you'll see something that looks like a nut but with no threads in it held in by a small spring. This the the lock nut, remove it. Below it is what looks like another nut with a slotted adjuster bolt sticking out. Remover the bolts from around the primary cover and break it loose from the engine. While turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the cover inward, remove the cover.

The cable connects to the cluch release mechanism. By turning the "link" downwards, you can disconnect it from the mechanism. Notice which way the "link" in attached to the release mechanism. Take the "link" off the end of the clutch cable.

Break the lock nut loose at the threaded cable adjuster on the outside of the case and screw the adjuster all the way out of the primary cover. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever and your cable is out.

Reinstall the new cable in the reverse order. When replacing the outer primary cover, make sure you use a new gasket on the cover as well as on the foot peg boss. The "foot peg boss gasket" is very important. You'll see an aluminum boss with a threaded rod sticking out of it that holds your left foot peg on. There is a round gasket that goes over this threaded rod and seals against the boss. If you leave this off, your bike will leak oil around this threaded rod when your foot peg goes on. Make sure you specifically ask for the "foot peg boss gasket" when you buy the new primary gasket. It's just a round gasket a bit larger than a quarter.

As you put the primary cover back on, there is a spring on the primary chain adjuster. Part of the spring is in the primary cover and the other part is in the engine. You'll see how it goes in. There is a large stud in that area that the outer primary cover slides up on. Adjust the tension on the primary chain by removing the "plug" at the top of the primary cover. You want 3/4" to 7/8" up and down play in the chain with the engine cold.

On the adjuster, as you're installing the outer cover, turn the ajuster screw back into the clutch release mechanism by turning the screw backwards. Once you have the outer primary cover completely installed, you must adjust the release mechanism. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance, then back the screw off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, insert the "lock nut" and spring, and install the "plug". Then, using the cable adjuster on the outside of the cover, adjust the cable. Add oil.