Everything turns off when I hit the start switch.

The most obvious thing is that the headlight bulb has failed on your mystery motorcycle. You can test it with a multimeter set to ohms, or connect it direct to the battery with a couple of lengths of wire.

Neither the rectifier or the stator would cause a lights out scenario. Everything is powered by your battery, the stator and rectifier just charge it back up. If the bulb is good and the fuses are good, there is only the connector, the switch or a break in the wiring that can be the cause.

Google

mystery make model wiring diagram

Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

Triple check your work, you have a bad connection/s some where.

Is there an immobiliser fitted?

Everything runs off a main plug from your battery that runs into your head cluster then back down individual plugins for your rectifier your head light and horn then you're starting switch along with your stop switch All those have plugs that run into a Box labeled SX12 volts And a rectifier From there it goes to your headlights. But if you just want to get it running Make sure Your coil connected to your spark plug If there's a key that that's your switch turn the key and turn it over. There's no key than don't worry about turning the key.

when it shuts off i would check to see if your on/of switch has continuity in the on position, if yes is your answer check the r/r = regulator rectifier it will give you stator symptoms when the stator may be functioning properly also just for giggles check your stator the procedures for checking also check the starter to make sure it is not sticking if it is sticking it will cause run ability problems

check fuses??

and is even there when just the ignition is on. 1. Battery tested at 12.7 when off. 2. 12.2 or so when first started then 13.5 to 14.3 when reved up to 2K to 8k+. 3. Yellow stator to R/R wires mint with no crimps or burn marks and any other imperfections. 4. Headlight gets brighter when it revs up to 2K or so as it should. 5. Bike starts ides revs rides 100% fine (took it out today for a while with no problems. Granted I didn't go to far from home as I didn't want to get stranded. 6. Disconnected everything at the battery, check all fuses, couldn't find any damaged wires, etc... reconnected, blue light still on, even when just the ignition is in on mode with the motor not on. Curve ball... I took off the license plate mount including the rear blinkers last week by just disconnecting the OEM connectors under the seat (turning it into a track only machine), no shorts or anything there, can this trigger the light to come on? So any ideas? Any other test points I should look into? I really want to get this sorted before hitting the track!,When a regulator/rectifier goes bad it can cause a condition where the battery could be overcharged or undercharged. I had an old GS750 that would boil the battery dry about every 2 months but since it was a Suzuki I just kept refilling the battery with electrolyte. The light will come on if the power output is over or under a set voltage parameter. The removal of all lights has probably caused the regulator to exceed this parameter. Plug back in the lights and see if it goes away.,,,

and is even there when just the ignition is on. 1. Battery tested at 12.7 when off. 2. 12.2 or so when first started then 13.5 to 14.3 when reved up to 2K to 8k+. 3. Yellow stator to R/R wires mint with no crimps or burn marks and any other imperfections. 4. Headlight gets brighter when it revs up to 2K or so as it should. 5. Bike starts ides revs rides 100% fine (took it out today for a while with no problems. Granted I didn't go to far from home as I didn't want to get stranded. 6. Disconnected everything at the battery, check all fuses, couldn't find any damaged wires, etc... reconnected, blue light still on, even when just the ignition is in on mode with the motor not on. Curve ball... I took off the license plate mount including the rear blinkers last week by just disconnecting the OEM connectors under the seat (turning it into a track only machine), no shorts or anything there, can this trigger the light to come on? So any ideas? Any other test points I should look into? I really want to get this sorted before hitting the track!,Either you didn't get the notches set correctly, or the 'rod' inside the cable isn't seated right. Or the rod broke like mine just did, and will need replacement.,,,