2005 KTM EXC 525 Racing Logo

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Posted on Jan 16, 2009
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Front fork oil change.

Hi,

I trid to take off the top parts of front forks KTM 525 EXC 06
First, I could loosen the top parts but they became very tight and stop at end. Should I keep doing with more power or any other way?
Please let me know.

Thanks.

Kenji

2 Answers

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  • Posted on Jan 16, 2009
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Kenji,
be careful, the front forks are under a spring. Just keep going and BE CAREFUL.

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  • Posted on Jan 10, 2013
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Make shure that the bike is on a stand other wise the fork top will shoot up and posibly damage the inner thread and also you.

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KTM EXC Head Torque Specifications

Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings


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  3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
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  6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
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  8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
  9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
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  11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
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  13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
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  15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
  16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
  17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
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  19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
  20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
  21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
  22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
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  24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
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Take your front wheel off and stand bike on box or stand. The cable and brake may interfere but leave it on so you don't open up any hydraulic systems Drain the forks. .
You can purchase a tool that looks like a extended deep spark plug socket with a 3/8 inch notch filed across the hex portion. You can also make your own tool out of a 3/8 drive spark plug socket. You can then use a 12 inch long extension and a ratchet with your tool to reach up from the bottom and hold the dampening mechanism while you remove the fork caps and loosen the top nut. (Old Husky Trick) Keep track of the parts order.
Check the manual for fluid capacity and viscosity prior to draining.
Once you have the forks and tubes separated you can remove the seals and wiper with a screw driver or a small puller. Look at the part numbers on the seals and wipers or take them down to a bearing supply house and match them. More than likely SKF or ***. Clean the tubes real good prior to re-assembly. A little grease on the outside of the seals will help reseat them while gently tapping first the seal then the wiper. I use a piece of wood I cut off something. Work your way around gently tapping and keep the seal even. Don't force.
Re-assemble and use lock tite on the internal nut. Don't want wheel coming off mid air.
Thank you for contacting FixYa.
TF
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Change oil fork

There is a bit of directions on how to change the oil. I will give you a link to a site that has pictures with step-by-step directions that will work for any bike fork.

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask..
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front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:

slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs.
your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.
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If you get the sevice manual or contact a dealer to get the correct oil amount for your bike, they need to know the model and year, you have to have the forks off the bike. take the fork caps off, take the springs out compress the upper fork tube all the way and add the specified oil. if they also give you the measured amount from the top that's the best way to get both fork oil levels exact. there is a special tool that you set the oil level in millimeters and it sucks out the oil to the right level, but before you do that step after adding the oil always pull and push on the cartage rod several times to remove air from the cartage tube. you will hear the air coming out and you will feel the changes in the cartage rod as the cartage tube fills up with oil and the air is removed.
something i'm confussed on though is if you replaced a seal you would have had to brake down the fork to replace it. you would have poored the oil into a container, cleaned all the internal parts,and used a fork seal driver to install the new seal. part of your question asks where do i put the oil in? thats in the open end of the fork after you have taken off the fork cap. It sounds to me like you only replaced the dust seal on one fork. that is not going to fix your leaking fork. you need to replace the oil seal thats pressed inside of the top fork tube.
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and when the forks/bars/tripleclamps are straight the wheel goes towards the right. ii think they are twisted or bent. how much do new forks cost?Loosen your front wheel slightly. Loosen your fork clamp bolts on the triple clamps slighty. Hold the front brake lever. Put one leg on either side of the front wheel to keep it from moving. Use the handlebars to turn the front end back straight. Tighten everything back up using a torque wrench and torqueing to the proper values from your service manual. Go ride and have fun. ,
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and when the forks/bars/tripleclamps are straight the wheel goes towards the right. ii think they are twisted or bent. how much do new forks cost?Loosen your front wheel slightly. Loosen your fork clamp bolts on the triple clamps slighty. Hold the front brake lever. Put one leg on either side of the front wheel to keep it from moving. Use the handlebars to turn the front end back straight. Tighten everything back up using a torque wrench and torqueing to the proper values from your service manual. Go ride and have fun. ,
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