20 Most Recent 2004 KTM EXC 525 Racing Questions & Answers

.008 on both intake and exhaust.



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check piston ring is not damaged.

then i stripped the hex bolt for oil screen.for overheating issue i was told to rejet to 185 @ 45 and change out pipe for restriction! after doing this the bike was still getting hot.so then i changed stockk coolant to cycle logics engine ice and gutted the thermostat for a free flowing system!after doing all this the bike needs a lot more abuse than before to over heat but it STILL DOES-very frustrating!! my only option left is to install the engine fan which is still on back order for at least another monthand was also recomended to run waterless coolan(evans)!im 260 pounds which doesnt help the situationi know. but if anyone else has any suggestions im all ears!dont get me wrong i love the bikeit HAS cooled down a lot! but im looking for news maybee to incress the lb rating on radiator cap to possibly 4lbs from the three lbs ktm supplies for this bike! if anybody has heard news with this problem please respond! thank you,ve got a 2006 450 exc that used to over heat also. I installed a JD Jetting kit aand it seems much better. Also installed a coolant recovery system for those real hot days. No problems since.,,,

Sounds like you have a clogged jet. Remove the carburetor and give it a thorough cleaning. Don't attempt to use steel objects to open a clogged jet because you will end up enlarging the jet. Use either wooden toothpicks or copper wire and take care not to let anything break off in the jet.

One of the disadvantages of parking a bike for such a long time. One of 2 things have happened.(Or maybe both.)
Valve stem seals have hardened.
Rings have become gummed up.
Either way you'll need to get the head and barrel off. I've heard of mixing a table spoon brake fluid with a cup of petrol and running that through the carb. I dont recommend it as I've not tried it. Rather try something like valve ease. Dont use it too often. The graphite tends to clog filters. I've also used acetone on my 4X4 but be VERY careful. Use only about a teaspoon full per litre of fuel.

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..

Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.

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Hi, try to see this link and looking for the manual that you need. https://www.pdfmotomanual.com/manuales/ktm/eng I hope to give you an help. Luca

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Hi, most likely your cdi unit or ignition coil needs replacing.

took me a min or two of WTF-ing to see pic and realize you meant a 2-stroke motorcycle..

try replace spark plugs

It's a bad seal of the head gasket. You need a new head gasket and to scrape every particle of debris from the cylinder head and cylinder surfaces that mate with the head gasket. Use the factory specified gasket sealing compound and do a clean job - no blobs or pools of the stuff. The head gasket should lay flat on the surface of the top of the cylinder, and you have to make this surface free of grit, leftover sealant and any other foreign matter before you put the head in place and torque it down. Start with the head bolts just finger tight and then go by the manufacturer's specs for the pattern and amount of torque to be applied. Usually it is recommended that you get to the specified torque amount in stages, going around several times and repeating the torque pattern until you get that maximum rated amount. This will prevent the seal from shifting or warping and should make the gasket seal perfectly. This is the old school method of doing this job. and I have never seen this fail to produce good results. Take your time, be clean, and you will have the results you want.

Check the clutch, adjust, clean, or replace