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Eric francis Posted on Oct 12, 2012
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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I have a 2000 honda f4 that's giving charging

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Anonymous

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  • Master 408 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2012
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No it does not matter. That is why they all have the same color.
If you check for resistance with an Ohm meter between either one of the yellow wires and the chassis there should not be any (infinite resistance means stator is OK).
Measure the output voltage between each pair of the yellow wires (3 measurements). At idle you should get 12-15V and at 5000rpm more than 40V on each pair.
If all the above stand correct you probably need a new regulator/rectifier assy.

  • Eric francis Oct 13, 2012

    Ok thanx.. So just to clarify... Any yellow wire from the stator can go to any input terminal of the rectifier ?

  • Anonymous Oct 13, 2012

    Correct.

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4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 221 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2009

SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

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Anonymous

  • 66 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 13, 2009

SOURCE: not charging, removed the regulator, has three

(I am the author of the reference thread on TriumphRat that wasposted by another respondent)

Not personally intimate with the Vulcan, but this is a 'conventional' motorcycle 3 phase stator energized by a crank driven magnetic rotor. 
The stator is connected in delta to the R/R. There should be NO measurable resistance from any of the three stator output terminals to engine ground - it should be completely isolated.   If you can measure a low resistance (not clear if your 0.2 ohms is from terminal to terminal or terminal to engine ground) then your stator is fried. 
Regarding the R/R connections - the third wire on the output is one of two functions (unfortunately without benefit of a schematic I cannot definitively conclude for you): either a 'voltage sense' wire, or in some Kawasakis they feed one phase of the stator output back out again for use in the starter cut/latch circuit. It should be reasonably easy to differentiate which it is. 
Good Luck! 

yeskimoe663

Angelo Stewart

  • 224 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 08, 2010

SOURCE: killing the battery when running

you need to replace the reg/rect . regulator not working properly, it's allowing to much current flowing through wire causing it to heat up and melt.

sisadsl

gavin jones

  • 1508 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 08, 2011

SOURCE: Hi I have a 2001 Honda shadow ACE motorbike.

3) there may be damage that has caused this
2)doesnt matter which yellow wire
1)maybe fried regulator or stator coils or aged insulation which has allowed a short between windings

The three wires are the 3 poles of the stator windings,

Fix the wires and plug first(electronics shops will have suitable 3 or 4 pin plugs to use)
get a multi meter and check resistance, any pair should have same resistance, non should short to ground.
with the bike running they will produce AC current (maybe 50-60vAC)again any pair.
If you are getting good AC voltace, then put the meter across the battery 12vDC engine stopped should rise to 14 vDC (about) when engine revved to 3000rpm

No AC -new stator
No DC-new regulator
Note voltages are estimates, many bikes run very similar charging systems

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G'day,
You say you are only getting 12v to the battery(& I presume you tested this with the engine running) then that is too low.
It needs to charge from about 13.5 to 14.2volts(DC).
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Faulty voltage regulator.
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Unless your experienced, faultfinding charging systems can be tricky & you need a couple of special tools too do it efficiently.

If your up for it- & have a multi meter,
You can start by disconnecting the wiring at the regulator.
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