Petroleum-based oil or synthetic oil

Yes, you can use most any petroleum based oil that you want. I'd avoid the use of synthetic oil on that bike as it may cause the clutch to slip. The clutch discs in those early bikes are not very heavy and slip easily. A lot of guys just use straight 30 weight petroleum based engine oil.

Steve

The fuel pump injector needs adjustment.

Your bike came from the factory with H-D Syn3 20W50 synthetic engine oil in it. Todays petroleum based and synthetic engine oils are compatible with each other so there are no issues there. Check the oil level with your bike on the side stand. There should be two lines on the dipstick. The upper line is the "FULL HOT" line and the lower line is the "FULL COLD" line. As long as the oil level is between the two lines, do not add oil. Resist the temptation to "top off the oil tank". Do not overfill the oil tank.

Good Luck
steve

Your bike came with H-D Syn 3 , 20W50 synthetic oil from the factory. You need to stay with 20W50 oil unless you live in some extremely cold or hot climate. For ambient temps running anywhere from 0° F. to 100° F., 20W50 is fine. You can use either petroleum based or synthetic oil. Other brands of oil that you can use are Mobil V-Twin, Amsoil, Revtech, and many others but go online and check for each manufacturer's recommendation. Harley says that you must use an oil that is rated for use in diesel engines due to the high pressure additives that these oil contain.

Good Luck
Steve

Okay I don't understand why on this earth would you not want to use a synthetic oil in your GL1800. Synthetic oils have proven themselves for longevity, superior performance and the list goes on. You are riding one of the best if not the best performance touring motorcycle in the world why destroy it with an off brand filter and petroleum based oils? Sorry can't help you with a "best" non synthetic oil or filter for your Goldwing.

Well it depends on the ambient temperature. Your bike sounds like it's in about the correct temp range on the oil temperature. This is why Harley went to using synthetic oil. It has a higher breakdown temperature than petroleum based oil.

Good luck
Steve

Hello,

Visco 2000 or mobil oil, use the dipstick to check do not let it be too full.

The type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in your owner's manual. For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today, it's any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "SH" rating.
As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multiviscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valvetrain components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it's important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures.
For older engines and ones that are driven at sustained highways speeds during hot weather, 10W-30 or 10W-40 is a good choice. Heavier multiviscosity oils such as 20W-40 are for high rpm, high-load applications primarily and are not recommended for cold weather driving.
Straight weight 30W and 40W oils aren't very popular anymore, but some diehards insist on using them. They say the thicker oil holds up better under high temperature (which it does), increases oil pressure and reduces oil consumption in high mileage engines. But straight 30W and 40W oils are too thick for cold weather and may make an engine hard to start. They may also be too thick to provide adequate start-up lubrication to critical upper valvetrain components during cold weather. So switching to a straight 20W oil would be necessary for cold weather driving. Straight 10W oil can also improve cold starting, but is very thin and should only be used in sub-zero climates. A multiviscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 will provide the same cold starting benefits of a 10W oil and the high temperature protection of a 30W or 40W oil.
For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:

• Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
• Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
• Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn't great, but it can make a noticeable difference.
• Longer oil change intervals. Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, some suppliers say oil change intervals can be safely extended -- in some cases stretched to as much as 25,000 miles. Such claims are justified by the fact that synthetics don't break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do in use. CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM's maintenance schedule can void your warranty.
  Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.
  There are also lower-cost synthetic "blends" that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.
  Who should use a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for:
  
  • Turbocharged or supercharged engines
  • Performance or high output engines
  • Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
  • Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates
  • Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection
  • 
    

Take care and good luck

If changing your filter as well as the oil, your bike should take three quarts of oil as best as I know. Always check your oil using the dipstick when you change it. Change the oil and filter and add three quarts, start the engine and run it just a bit, two or three minutes. Check the oil level with the dipstick. The dipstick has two marks on it. The upper mark is 'FULL HOT" while the lower mark is 'FULL COLD'. Make sure your oil level is between the two marks and never overfill.

As for regular petroleum based oil or synthetic, you're 2001 machine came from the factory with H-D's Syn 3 20W50 synthetic oil in the engine, the primary, and the transmission. I'd recommend sticking with the synthetic oil but it must meet H-D's specification. Not all synthetics do. Matter of fact, very few do. Some that do is Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Mobil V-Twin.

Good Luck
Steve

Use a good brand of synthetic 10w-30 for probably treble the mileage between changes. Otherwise use a good brand of petroleum based 10w-30 oil at 3000-4000 mile intervals. Hope this helps!

Everyone has their favorite spark plugs and oil. As for spark plugs, I like NGK plugs because I've had less problems with them than any other plug I've ever run.

As for oil, it depends on whether you're talking petroleum based or synthetic. Aftermarket petroleum based, I like RevTech. Aftermarket synthetic Mobil V-Twin.