My check engine light comes on about 4 seconds after engine start and stays on. When I run the speed odometer diagnostics all I get is d01cl through d10cl and than PPU on each push of the switch. HELP

Beings the "Check Engine Light" goes off and on, there SHOULD be one or more error codes stored in the system.
Have you tried pulling any error codes?

The speedometer is capable of displaying & clearing speedometer , tachometer TSM/TSSM , HFSM , ECM , ABS Diagnostic Trouble Codes also known as DTC's.
1 - Turn the ignition switch to off & run/stop switch is to run .
2 - Push odometer reset button in & HOLD .
3 - Turn the ignition switch on and then release odometer reset button . The background lighting should illuminate & the speedometer needle should sweep it's full range & indicator lamps ( battery , security , low fuel , check engine and cruise ) should illuminate . The word "DIAG" should then appear .
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPtb" with the first P flashing .
5 - Each letter represents a area of the diagnostics module . The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check . To move from one letter to the next you must push the odometer reset button one time . ( from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P , ect ect )
P = ECM
S = TSM/TSSM/HFSM
SP = speedometer
t = tachometer
b = ABS codes
6 - To get the DTC code in a area of diagnostics you should PUSH & HOLD the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and the release . If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word " none " will appear if there are no DTC's . Push the odometer reset button again to view any additional codes if they exist .
7 - Record the codes .
8 - If DTC's are NOT to be cleared , press and release the odometer reset button . Part #of module will be displayed .
9 - If DTC's are to be cleared for that module , PRESS & HOLD the odometer reset button until " clear " is displayed .
10 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module .
11 - Turn the ignition switch off to exit the diagnostic mode .


If you DO get any error codes, repost them for diagnosis.

It's not a button, it's a process that has been the same since 2001. In addition to what is below, there is a list of diagnostic codes as well. Let me know if you don't have them. Too long for this post. Here it is. Thanks goes to Road Captain:

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

Also if the code set is a historic code (not a constant light) after 50 start and run cycles of at least 30 seconds each in duration, the light will extinguish itself as long as the error hasn't occurred again.
If it were a current code, the light would remain lit while running.

2011 TOURING ODOMETER SELF-DIAGNOSTICS

Press and hold the trip odometer reset switch while turning the IGN ON to enter diagnostic mode, release the trip odometer reset button and "diag" will appear on the odometer display. However if "no rsp" appears instead then you either do not have the RUN/STOP button in the ON position or if it appears after the PSSPtbhas appeared then the particular module that "no rsp" is displacing is not present on the motorcycle. THEN press and release the trip odometer reset button again and "PSSPtb" will appear on the odometer display, the letters "PSSPtb" refer to the different modules that could display codes if the motorcycle is equipped with those modules. "P" indicates ECM codes; "S" indicates TSM/TSSM/HFSM codes; 'SP" indicates Speedometer codes; "t" indicates Tachometer codes; and "b" indicates ABS codes. If you rapidly press and release the trip odometer reset button you can cycle through all of these letter(s) one by one and they will flash as you do so. Once a letter is flashing its corresponding module has been selected to show codes on the odometer display. When a letter is displayed and flashing if you press and hold the trip odometer reset button, if there are no stored DTC's"none" will appear on the display. If any DTCs are stored in the module, whether current or historic, they will be displayed on the odometer. If you the rapidly press and release the trip odometer reset button you can cycle through all of the stored DTCs. If "no rsp" is displayed move on to the next module and when you get to the last module the display will show "end". If you want to clear all DTCs for any module press and hold the trip odometer reset button and they will all be erased from the computer memory. If at the end of a display of DTCs you want to progress to the next step or sequence for that module, quickly pressing the odometer reset button will cause the module part number to be displayed. After that display if you again quickly press and release the trip odometer reset button the display will move on to the next module display in the sequence of modules. When you are finished and wish to exit the diagnostic mode simply switch off the ignition or run switch.
continue to the next module.

If you want to do a quick of instrument function, a "WOW" test can be performed by entering the odometer self-diagnostics. In this test the background lighting should illuminate, the gauge needles should sweep their full range of motion, and the indicator lights that are controlled by the serial data circuit (the battery, the security and the check engine) should illuminate. If the instrument fails "WOW" test, check for a poor battery condition or connections and/or a poor ground connection condition and check for proper ignition voltage to the instrument. If any feature in the speedometer or tachometer is non-functional, you will have to check further into that/those area(s).


Observing the check engine lamp is the best way to start to diagnose ECM system problems. "IGN ON" means that the ignition switch is turned to IGN and the engine run/stop switch is set to RUN (even if the engine is not running). When the IGN is turned ON, the check engine lamp will illuminate for approximately four seconds and then turn Off again. If the check engine lamp is not illuminated at IGN ON or if it fails to turn off after the initial four-second period, then you must check for a no ECM Power situation.. After the check engine lamp turns off following the first four second illumination period, one of three events may occur. Which are i) The lamp remains off which indicates there are no current fault conditions or stored DTCs presently being detected by the ECM; ii) if the lamp stays off for only four seconds and then comes back on for an eight second period it is an indication that a DTC is stored, but no current DTC exists; iii) if the lamp comes on and remains on past the eight-second period it is an indication that a current DTC is in existence.

with the car on safety stands and running in gear check the speed sensor with a volt meter . The oil light should light up wen the ignition is on and go out a second or two after starting. Check the sender unit and wiring .

The ABS light should stay on until you reach a speed of about 3 MPH or higher.

Did you check for error codes?

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

Also if the code set is a historic code (not a constant light) after 50 start and run cycles of at least 30 seconds each in duration, the light will extinguish itself as long as the error hasn't occurred again.
If it were a current code, the light would remain lit while running.

If you clear the error code (step #8), the light SHOULD reset.

The engine light lights up when you turn the ignition switch on, then goes off. After four seconds, if it comes on again and stays on, there is a present fault code. When it is an historical fault code, it comes on with ignition and goes off then comes on and goes off again. I believe in like 4 second intervals. An historical code will not be removed until a cycle of 50 ignition on/of intervals has passed. In other words, the engine light will continue to light two times when ignition switch is turned on, after 50 on/off cycles have passed the historical codes will no longer affect the engine light when starting.
If you will hold the odometer button on the side of the console down, and turn the ignition on and off, three times I think, waiting for the fuel pump to stop before turning the ignition switch to the off position, and one second until you turn it on again, the third time holding the odometer button down until the engine light begins to blink it will begin to blink in a fast sequence showing the fault codes will follow.
First indication of fault code display is rapidly blinking engine light. After that count the number of times the engine light lights up. There will be a brief pause between digits. If there are multiple codes stored, the rapid blinking will separate each. Once the fault codes begin to repeat, you have gone through all stored codes.
Tips: Have a pencil and paper ready.
Maybe ask a friend to help out. Sometimes a second pair of eyes can be good.
Go through a couple of cycles, so that you are sure you haven't missed any codes.


Method #2:

1. Remove right side saddlebag and side cover if so equipped. Remove protective plug from data link connector. Other models will be under the seat.
2. To activate the diagnostic feature,follow these steps.
a. Create diagnostic test wire or use a female spade clip which will bridge the two terminals perfectly.
b. Install diagnostic test wire/clip across Terminals 1 and 2 on the data link connector, they are marked.
c. Turn Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately 10 seconds (4 seconds lamp ON, 6 seconds lamp OFF) for check engine lamp to start flashing.
3. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes. To retrieve the first digit of the trouble code simply observe the number of times the lamp flashes.
a. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code.
b. The length of time the lamp is illuminated and the length of time in which it is off are each about 0.5 second in duration.
4. The second digit follows:
a. Following the transmission of the first digit, there is a 1.2 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the second digit of the trouble code. Count the number of times the lamp flashes to retrieve the second digit.
5. If more than one trouble code is sent:
a. Following transmission of the second digit of the first code, there is a 3 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. Once all codes have been sent, the data string is repeated. When you have recorded the same trouble code twice, it is an indication that the transmission has been restarted and that all trouble codes have been retrieved.
IMPORTANT NOTE ..If diagnostic test wire is installed across Pins 1 and 2 on connector in lieu of a Scanalyzer, the ECM is placed in a diagnostic test mode and the engine will start. The test wire must be removed from the data connector and the ignition switch turned OFF or the check engine lamp will continue to flash codes. A historic trouble code resides in the memory of the ECM until the code is cleared by use of the Scanalyzer or a total of 50 trips has elapsed. A "trip" consists of a start and run cycle, the run cycle lasting at least 30 seconds. After the 50 trip retention period, the trouble code is automatically erased from memory (that is, assuming no subsequent faults of the same type are detected in that period). The numbers after the 'historic' or 'current' is the speedo code number, but without the electrical diagnostics manual you're not going to know what they mean.


After retrieving codes, repost the codes for meaning (too many codes to type them all here)

Your bike can run a self diagnostics.
to do this:
key off position
run switch in run position
press and hold trip reset button
turn ignition to on
odometer will start diagnostic
release trip meter button

To cycle through pess trip button

Had the same problem in Sturgis. Voltage regulator

Having the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's could point you in a diagnostic direction . Most auto part stores will check them for free .Not shifting ,odometer not work would make me believe the VSS - vehicle speed sensor is bad , engine light coming on has to do with the engine management system , not the engine mechanical ! You don't know about OBD 2 - onboard diagnostic's . The check engine light it's called ,comes on when the vehicle is polluting 1 & 1/2 times more then the EPA allows . Your best bet mite be to take it to a qualified repair shop that knows how it works .

check engine light comes on when starting then shuts off and then comes back on but when i start ridding it goes off??