20 Most Recent 2011 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic Questions & Answers

Ahhhh unless you have a custom eng sensor installed they dont have a eng light ummmmmm do you have key acc light on your bike?

2011 TOURING ODOMETER SELF-DIAGNOSTICS Press and hold the trip odometer reset switch while turning the IGN ON to enter diagnostic mode, release the trip odometer reset button and "diag" will appear on the odometer display. However if "no rsp" appears instead then you either do not have the RUN/STOP button in the ON position or if it appears after the PSSPtbhas appeared then the particular module that "no rsp" is displacing is not present on the motorcycle. THEN press and release the trip odometer reset button again and "PSSPtb" will appear on the odometer display, the letters "PSSPtb" refer to the different modules that could display codes if the motorcycle is equipped with those modules. "P" indicates ECM codes; "S" indicates TSM/TSSM/HFSM codes; 'SP" indicates Speedometer codes; "t" indicates Tachometer codes; and "b" indicates ABS codes. If you rapidly press and release the trip odometer reset button you can cycle through all of these letter(s) one by one and they will flash as you do so. Once a letter is flashing its corresponding module has been selected to show codes on the odometer display. When a letter is displayed and flashing if you press and hold the trip odometer reset button, if there are no stored DTC's"none" will appear on the display. If any DTCs are stored in the module, whether current or historic, they will be displayed on the odometer. If you the rapidly press and release the trip odometer reset button you can cycle through all of the stored DTCs. If "no rsp" is displayed move on to the next module and when you get to the last module the display will show "end". If you want to clear all DTCs for any module press and hold the trip odometer reset button and they will all be erased from the computer memory. If at the end of a display of DTCs you want to progress to the next step or sequence for that module, quickly pressing the odometer reset button will cause the module part number to be displayed. After that display if you again quickly press and release the trip odometer reset button the display will move on to the next module display in the sequence of modules. When you are finished and wish to exit the diagnostic mode simply switch off the ignition or run switch. continue to the next module. If you want to do a quick of instrument function, a "WOW" test can be performed by entering the odometer self-diagnostics. In this test the background lighting should illuminate, the gauge needles should sweep their full range of motion, and the indicator lights that are controlled by the serial data circuit (the battery, the security and the check engine) should illuminate. If the instrument fails "WOW" test, check for a poor battery condition or connections and/or a poor ground connection condition and check for proper ignition voltage to the instrument. If any feature in the speedometer or tachometer is non-functional, you will have to check further into that/those area(s). Observing the check engine lamp is the best way to start to diagnose ECM system problems. "IGN ON" means that the ignition switch is turned to IGN and the engine run/stop switch is set to RUN (even if the engine is not running). When the IGN is turned ON, the check engine lamp will illuminate for approximately four seconds and then turn Off again. If the check engine lamp is not illuminated at IGN ON or if it fails to turn off after the initial four-second period, then you must check for a no ECM Power situation.. After the check engine lamp turns off following the first four second illumination period, one of three events may occur. Which are i) The lamp remains off which indicates there are no current fault conditions or stored DTCs presently being detected by the ECM; ii) if the lamp stays off for only four seconds and then comes back on for an eight second period it is an indication that a DTC is stored, but no current DTC exists; iii) if the lamp comes on and remains on past the eight-second period it is an indication that a current DTC is in existence.

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Did you pull any error codes? If you got any, what are they?

You're clutch cable needs to be adjusted. Most likely you can gain enough "pull" up at the hand lever. The adjustment will be turned clock wise, your goal is to imagine you're pulling the inside cable more-farther to dis engage the engine from the wheel. You should have a little play when the lever is at rest to be absolutely sure it's completely free. Might be worth a couple bucks to have a shop do it and ask to watch. It's a quick, easy adjustment but should have an experienced hand.

For "one-up" rider, 30 psi in the front, 36 psi in the rear.

For "two-up" riding, 30 psi in the front, 40 psi in the rear

I have found that these pressures are safe and comfortable. Higher pressure in the front results in a harsh ride.

Good Luck
Steve

1st step is check the wheel bearings and the speedo drive if applicable to your model. Make sure the speedo drive tab is in the notch on disk, lube the cable.Wheel bearing end play needs to be checked, clean and check the bearings or replace bearings, races and seals...again, be sure to check bearing end play to specs