20 Most Recent 2005 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic - Page 4 Questions & Answers

oil leak from where is it the sump

Are u sure it is oil or is it your carburettor dripping slightly and picking up oil off engine casing?seems strange unlikely to caused by service

It is likely to be the electric fuel pump my r1 does it if I haven't used bike for a while it is normal

Are you saying you missed an oil change, and they won't fix the starter problem? Sounds like I would find another place to take the bike and see if they will fix it under warranty.

The brakes on this machine is not normally that sensitive. Check the Front Brake pads and make sure the Calipers aren't leaking Brake fluid on them. Brake fluid on Brake pads makes them VERY grippy.

i think its on the front of the motor. directly above the drain plug. maybe behind a finned cover?

or go here for a free pdf service manual
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Either your speedo cable has come loose at one end or the other, or broken inside it's protective sheathing or the speedo itself could be bad. I would check both ends first make sure they are attached properly. If so and still not fixed I imagine a new cable is cheaper than a new speedo so I would start there first. and lastly if still not working replace the speedo.

Have you cleaned the Fuel tank recently? some times even under excellent care you can get gunk built up. also have you checked spark plugs

Use the proper tools and follow the service procedure in the service manual.

The oil coming out of your carburetor is coming from your crank case. Either you have a stuck float, a stuck float needle, dirt in your carburetor, or you have a vacuum style petcock with a leaking diaphragm. Take apart and clean your carburetor. Drain your tank , take apart and inspect your fuel petcock. If the diaphragm is bad repair it with a K&L rebuild kit or put on a new petcock. Inspect your air filter if it is saturated with oil replace it and drain the excess fluid out of the air box. Also check your engine oil, if your crankcase is too full (gas/oil mixture) you will need to change your oil before running the engine.

There is a fuel setting issue and the mixture to the cylinder is not correct. It can be problems in the carburator, the air / fuel mixture settings, possible there is dirt clogging within any ports and choking.
When the throttle is raised there is insufficient fuel to the cylinder and so it shuts down. check the spark plug, the gaps and the timing.

sounds like a universal joint or the shaft is bent

Remove the Phillips head screw under your choke lever and retrieve the wave washer and other small parts there. The cable, with a large trunnion swaged here will come away from the lever.
The Carb end is more difficult... You can opt to remove the fuel tank, pump, cable bellcrank bracket (screwed to the top of the carb) for better access. If your fingers are small enough you might try without so nuch removal but your objective is to unscrew a hexagonal connector that holds the cable/spring and choke plunger in the carb.
Pull back the dustboot over the cable and you'll see it.
You should be able to use an open end wrench to loosen it then use fingetips to unscrew it, take care when removing the whole lot from the carb- the spring and choke plunger sit on the end of the cable held only by a small 3mm swage. remove these parts from the cable and pull the cable out through its guides along the frame. Assembly is the reverse. I hope this helps

I do not agree your bike should run better then it sounds like it is. Just throwing on a set of pipes and a carb kit is not always all that needs done. I ask about the air filter because it seems your motor is getting to much gas and not enough air. The thing I would do next is to get a higher flow of air on the intake side by going to a high flow air filter. A quick check to see if this will help is to temporarily remove the air filter and test ride the bike. If it runs better without the filter this tells you a high flow filter will help. Your bike may need more work than this to get it right on. The other thing you could have done is get someone to jet in the carb to cut down the fuel flow and get the fuel air ratio right on.

That is the sign of a bad Kick stand switch. Check the switch to be sure it is working properly.

I own the same bike, this all depends on where exactly you are leaking the oil from, I know for myself, I had to replace basically the whole top end of the motor and all the gaskets, are you sure that its oil and not brakes?

3000 to 5000 miles is the range. 3000 miles city driving or up to 5000 miles touring miles. Some people change yearly or at 2000 miles. That is probably excessive and wasteful (of money and oil). Typically if you drive your motorcycle a lot, you will sense when it is running louder and with more vibration. That is how the motorcycle tells you that it wants an oil change.
You can use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. Shell Rotella T and Rotella T Synthetic 15w-40 are inexpensive JASO MA oils. You will need 4 quarts of oil, an aluminum drain plug washer, and a filter. Pour in 3.3 quarts , run the motor, and check the oil level . Top up as needed.

Quite common to get the parts in the wrong order. You should bave a shouldered spacer and a flat washer.
so looking from the back of the wheel...on the right side you should have the following..
wheel
shouldered spacer with shoulder into wheel.
brake caliper bracket
flat washer
swingarm.

if the washers are in the wrong order it pulls caliper against rotor causing the drag

Check fuses and Battery leads

Check the starter motor for continuity. I expect the brushes need replacing.