20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Go to http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm and search up the year of your bike, then find the part

The Main Fuse, is located behind the left hand side panel below the drivers seat. It is a 30 amp green fuse that is in the starter relay. Pulling out this fuse will cut all power to all parts of the bike. In order to determine where your electrical drain is while your bike is off, replace the 30 amp main fuse back into the starter relay, and pull fuses from the fuse box, one at a time. Let your bike sit, for however long it takes to drain your battery, to determine what system is draining your battery. For example, pull the fuse labeled for the lights and see if the battery drain goes away. If it does, then you will need to check all the wires that power the lights. If the drain persists, replace the fuse you removed and remove a different fuse and see if the drain is still there. This will help you determine what system is draining your battery and help you focus on that system to pin point the drain. It is most likely a wire that has rubbed its insulation off and is coming in contact with either the frame or two or more wires that have fused together through heat or insulation being rubbed off. KPCYCLES.com Hawaii

That reservoir is the rear brake master cylinder . I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

each cylinder works alternatly to each other !

air leak

Guess you fixed the wrong part.

i'd try taking the cover off first or it may come apart from the back. should be simple

Running light has its own feed from. Ignition switch, you must have blown a fuse or unpluged a wire while you were doing the rear light

Your problem is more than likely not the clutch fluid, but the clutch plates. The friction material wears off quite quickly on the larger v twins due to the amount of torque they have to handle as compared to an inline 4 of the same size.

Change to oil, it can go bad and make the engine run bad or on one pot!

MOST LIKELY THE BATTERY. IGNITION NEEDS OVER 10VOLTS TO SPARK. WILL PUSH START CAUSE YOU ARE NOT TAKING VOLTAGE WITH STARTER

had a similar problem with a honda a few years ago; changed oil but put the wrong make of oil in (i didnt think it would matter).
had to re-drain, dismantle the clutch and thoroughly clean friction plates, reinstall then refill with correct oil. in my case this solved the problem. hope this is of help to you.

This may help. There is a wiring diagram for your bike posted HERE Note that this is "part 1" of the diagram. There is also a link for "Part 2" posted on the page. The page also has some very good advice for checking your bike out.

The site below has got all but the tappet clearances covered. You will need a service manual for the correct valve clearances or a friendly word to your dealer if you want to do it yourself.

Front and rear carbies' are depicted in exploded view form with all parts named and numbered. The diaphrams and idle adjustments are clearly shown. All sections of the bike are covered.

As for the timing chains, they are self adjusting and when adjustment runs out, the chains must be replaced.

Richness is governed by the size of the carby jets, smaller numbers are leaner.

Cheers!

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-vs800-gl-intruder-1992-1997-usa_model16322/partslist/

Your kickstand switch is either broken or out of position. The bike kills the engine as a safety feature if it thinks the sidestand is down and the bike is put in gear while the engine is running. -------------- You can cut the wire and by-pas the switch. Either twist the wires together or wrap electrical tape around the ends and keep them apart, whichever makes the engine not die. -------------- Check the side stand safety switch . The switch must be pressed fully home,if it isn't bend the plate that presses agains the switch to get a better contact.---------
It is the sidestand safety switch. It is designed to stall the bike in case you put it in gear with the sidestand down. If it is out of adjustment, or just plain dirty, it will not make a good contact and the bike will stall even with the sidestand up. Clean it, make sure the plunger is moving correctly, and if all else fails pull the two wires off and twist them together to bypass the switch until you get a new one.---------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

You don't have to rebuild the carburator the float is stuck . With the bike running try tapping on the carb in the middle of it to try to reset the needle and seat.Not real hard but firm with the handle of a screw driver will work, if this does stop the over flow you will need to remove the float bowl and replace the needle and seat .

Remove the left side cover, look near the middle and you will see a black rectangular box mounted sideways. the main fuse is under the panel on the right side behind the forks and the rest of the fuses are in the crank case under the cover...where you fill the oil.

Remove carbs, clean float needles check they dont stick, and also they control the amount of fuel flowing into the carbsCheck needle ends for progresed ware or dammage

sounds like you have a cracked hose. You will need to replace it

Take cover off the clutch reservoir and check the fluid level. Fill it if necessary. Look for leaks between the clutch lever/reservoir, down the hose to the clutch slave cylinder. If no leaks visible, slowly squeeze clutch lever and release, watching for air or fluid pumping in the reservoir. Repeat until clutch has a solid pull. If the pull doesn't improve and stay good, you'll need to bleed the hose and slave cylinder. Locate the bleed valve at the clutch, squeeze the lever till it's a good solid pull, hold it in, and open the bleed valve. Watch for air bubbles. After doing this several times, you should get nothing but fluid. Refill the reservoir and close it. Good riding