20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I would be much more inclined to check the choke, it sounds like it's stuck on or at least partially.
Any bike will do this if the choke valves are closed or partially closed even.
You might be surprised that the solution is as simple as turning off the choke (opening the valve) is the solution.
And yes, this would very much so cause the bike to run rich as well.
Good for starting up, not good for running!

Hi, is this after the bike has been away for the winter, these bikes Are designed to run on modern fuels, the intruder normaly runs fine , good advice would be to replace the spark plugs and drain the fuel from the carburettor float bowls by undoing the drain screws in the bottom of each carb, prior to using the bike after the winter, you may also check the condition of the air filter located on the left hand side of the engine under the chrome cover

The weight and how much depends on which bike you have. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

Hello,

I use this coolant; Engine Ice Coolant
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You have a short circuit regulator I expect. Disconnect the regulator and see what happens.

Ebay would carry a manual most likely also be sure to drain oil and gas as well as cleaning the entire bike also you should try to test if its locked or seized up first before rebuilding.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the two forward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end. Lift the motorcycle until the rear tire is just off the ground.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the wheel from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

Starting should be accomplished by pressing the starter button with the clutch pulled in, bike in neutral, and choke on. If starting in gear, the sidestand will need to be retracted (up) as well as clutch lever pulled in.
Unfortunately, if the bike has not been used in 10 years, you may have other problems that will cause it not to start, i.e. dead battery, bad fuel, gummed up carburetors, or faulty switches to name a few.
Hope this helps.

one down from neutral is 1st then 1up is neutral +1 is 2nd +1 is 3rd, etc.

You can check the coil with an ohmmeter for continuity. For spark you use one of these
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis19380.html
You can find a similar one at every car shop.

Check the contact from the key, then the contact breaker (if there's power coming to it and if power is coming out to the solenoid). If there is then the problem is either in the solenoid or the high tension circuit.
You could also try to check if fuel really enters the cylinder: crank the engine for a while then smell the spark plug - you should see and smell the gas.

if there are bolts holding the rear fender to the frame at the side of the seat (2 on each side), remove these 4 bolts and offer up the saddlebag brackets. the bolts then go through the ends of the brackets and then back into the frame of the bike and then on in to support the rear fender.
It might be an idea to purchase longer bolts as they may not be long enough with the added depth of the saddlebag bracket.
make sure they are tightened up as the bolts also hold the rear fender to the frame of the bike and if the rear fender is allowed to move it will crack the plastic.
hope this helps

Check the plugs to make sure they are getting gas, try pouring a cap full of gas into each sylinder and see if it fires, chances are the carbs are dirty.

May I suggest a trip to your local library. Cycle repair books should be in 646 stacks of reference.

Thick fluid is the result of poor maintenance. If you have added new fluid and still no pressure you may have a bad pump or blockage. Try flushing the systed with pressure (may have to go to the shop). do not rund it with 0 pressure as internal damage will result very quickly

start learning some japonese n purchase a manual by haynes or other-they take u step by step in every part of the bike-domo arigato

it is a yb16-a1
http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-vs800glr-intruder-1994/o/m6861

The battery probably needs replacing. They are small and it is over 12 years old.

You need to be careful due to the age of the bike as the wires may have become harder but brittle and any squeezing would mean any wire inside might snap..Also because it is coming at the front side of the bike it could be anything like a signal control,a horn wiring or even a thermostat switch wire..causing any loose connection might be very costly if you don't have the expertise..I have 15 years with re-conditioning old bikes that's why I think I can advise you.Now if you really want to hide the wires you will need to look for all the screws and bolts that covers the front and once out,all the wires are seen then you can hide them nicely back with a strap or a tape to prevent it coming back out when you are putting back the covers.Hope this helps.

Si jodance