Top 20 2001 kawasaki KLX 300 Questions & Answers

Not familiar with this exact model but I have tested other stators. There should be 3 wires of the same color at the connector. This would be a 'Y' wound stator, all 3 are connected to each other. I f you don't have the ohm specs just check for resistance with an ohm meter. All 3 should show continuity to each other no matter what order you test. And, NONE should show continuity to ground. If the stator is removed, ground would be to the iron stator core.

Hi Kieron, you can download the workshop manual here where you can find out how to tension the chain... KLX MANUAL HERE

That could possible be a drain back tube or vent tube. May also be overflow tube. Follow tube back from carburetor and see where it goes.

adjust the valves or the rocker arms you want a little slap but not mutch

check you coils and pick up i have had to replace the pick up on those little klf alot
Good Luck
M.Woodring

Kawasaki 10w40 motor oil. This is the oem recommended oil... Good luck and happy riding.
HDTV GURU JAY

4 stroke sae 30 advanced auto parts 8.00

sounds like it may need clutch adjustment,may be an adjustment on cable at the motor turn it out couple turns and try again,theres also an adjustment at the lever,try that also,based on what you have described if the clutch is not fully engaged when shift into 1st gear it will shut down on you,also if you have it running with clutch lever pulled in and it wants to still move forward that is the problem,hope that helps.

take your carburetor apart and clean it . it sounds like your float is sticking . good luck .

check to see if the choke is stuck or the carb could be dirty (gummed up)

how do i adjust the vaulves

G'Day b shrum,
You can download a service manual for the bike here, (click on "free user") I checked the link working fine for now at least. Get a copy for yourself while the link is hot.
The Kawasaki shop manual suggest Engine Oil as SE Class SAE viscosity of 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50 Is really a subjective thing, use the oil that suits your riding conditions, and climate. 10w40 for lower temps, 20w50 for hotter heavier duty conditions. Thicker oil protects better, thinner oil makes you go faster :)
I suggest using any good quality synthetic oil engineered for motorcycles. The brands here are endless. Chose what you can afford, but always get good quality oil and change it and the oil filter every 1000 k's
regards robotek

have the voltage regulator checked for the proper output

Are you sure you put them back together in the correct sequence and spacings? To me it sounds as you missed something such as over tightneing or wrong clutch sequence. Try re-do it again.

idle jets are clogged needs to have carb cleaned

Look in the recycler or craigs list and average out what the asking prices are for that model. Bump your price a couple hundred for negotiating and see what happens? Chaz Moto DC

Well there is a dating service on the internet. ha ha whats wrong

If spark plug is wet with petrol then float level is incorrect either by dirt under float needle or set too high.

If you havent altered / removed the carb and it has just happened, somtimes gently tapping the float bowl can dislodge the dirt. Otherwise you will need to remove carby, (I assume it has one) and clean out.

your carb is durty need to pull it apart and clean it both jets idle and main

manual or electronic design?

basic 2 pole flasher relay manual design = battery -ve to lights return (metal shroud of bulb)

battery +ve to fuse holder (10A on 12volt system)
output of fuseholder to flasher unit +ve pin (sometimes marked input or L)

output of flasher unit to centre (common) connection of flasher direction switch.

output of one side (left or right) of switch to front and rear bulbs (wire from switch to front, wire from switch to rear) = centre pin of bulb

repeat last instruction for other pair of bulbs

Done!