20 Most Recent 1986 Honda CB 700 SC Nighthawk Questions & Answers

Bleed is on the slave cylinder...usually near the top

cbx 750 , cb 750 a possibility but i would compare before you buy or have yours reconditioned

12Nm is common for 6x100mm with 8mm head screws.If the head of the screw is 10mm I recommend 14Nm.

Most Honda bikes of the 1980's had small fuse boxes with 3-4 fuses at the most. Usually 1 for ignition and charging, 1 for Headlight Only, and 1 for All other lights. Overheated and even melted fuse blocks are commonplace in these years due to high current draw and the plastic block which melts and distorts over time, breaking the circuit to the lights. Replace all 3 or 4 circuits of the old fuse block with modern in-line blade-type fuses and this will never happen again. (If the fuses are all good, and the plastic box is not melted or burnt, you may have a bad Ignition Switch, but this is rare)

Sounds like no timing advance. Will seem to go well up to about 55 or 60, but will run flat or even slow down above 60. Follow shop manual procedures for verifying timing advance operation. If you watch the timing mark with a conventional timing light, you will most likely discover the mark will not move when you rev the throttle. If this is the case, you must replace the electronic timing pickup or module. Consult shop manual for the correct procedure.

that carb is probly dirty as a pair of dentures--it needs takin apart soaked in solvent and meticulus assembly-somethin ur good at but buy a clymer manual for insurance

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B68_zXPsRU2kSmlGcGJ3MFRneU0 download manual

Hi, you may use those specs for your bykeOnly recente engines use Car type screws with permanent strech and crazy torquesgood luck

http://hondatech.info/downloads/Moto/Common/These manauls are for non specific models and they give torques according to bolt size and type.

i would look to a faulty seal in the slave cylinder, but would expect to find a fluid leak also above that i cant help

Corrosion in the electrical contacts and the ground wires and bolts. You will need to take them apart and clean them - use fine emeri paper. Also check the battery plots and cable connectors for oxidation.

Hate to sound like a smart $$s but if you have got to ask then you don't have the tools or mechanical knowledge to do the work. If you feel the rods need replacing I'd strongly suggest ether finding a motorcycle mechanic or purchase another bike. This is not a simple repair and it's costly certainly it will cost more to repair then what you could get another bike for

bad battery or bad starter check the battery an connections you can remove battery take to part store they will check battery voltage an then go from there

Your key code is on the helmet lock, the tumblers of the ignition, and on the underside of the gas cap. It is a six digit code the last three of which are the code( xxxA56). If you take a 10 mm socket and a long extension you can reach up underneath the lock, remove the two mounting bolts, and pull the lock out the bottom. Most motorcycles have a headlight with a mounting bolt on each side. By taking one of these bolts you can usually swing the headlight or in this case the fairing out of the way. Removal of the switch may not be necessary to read the key code(Honda usually stamps it facing the frame neck). One key fits all the locks on the bike if no locks have been changed.

there may be a problem with the fuel tap, if there is a position between on and reserve called PRI(prime) try the prime position next time it stops.

Remove the gas tank and seat. Then look carefully over and around the frame. You should see the CDI box.

A service manual is a valuable tool with an aging bike. I suggest the dealer/mfr. or Clymer books. In the meantime, go to the library reference section...646 stacks should have what you need.

check pulse coils generator circuit first then spark unit. coils seem o.k. check for loose or worn /burnt connectors.