Hi, Alma the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual https://www.ultimatespecs.com/motorcycles-specs/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-1500-nomad-1999 Kawasaki Vulcan
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the injectors.
8. Intake air leak.
9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or the fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
10. Fuel pump or pressure regulator faulty.
11. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
13. Faulty ignition coil.
14. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a nice day. nomad wont start Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums 3 Things to Look for When Your Motorcycle Won Start The Allstate Blog Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual
Hi, Shereenkhouz if you're having trouble with your hydraulic clutch releasing-that is, when you try to shift with the clutch all the way in, it feels like the bike still "wants" to be in gear-there's a good chance you may have air in the system. Air trapped within the system defeats the mechanical advantage of hydraulic pressure-the air can be compressed much more than the fluid, so when you pull in the lever, the clutch itself is not fully disengaging.
That's the bad news. The good news is that this is a problem that may often be fixed simply by adding fluid and bleeding the system, and you're about to learn how to do just that.
1. Check the level of the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Your owner's manual will show you how and what DOT type fluid to use. Add as much fluid as necessary to reach the "full" level. Throughout the process, either you or your assistant must remember to check the fluid level regularly during this process. If the reservoir reaches empty, the system will begin taking more air in, adding to the problem you're already trying to solve.
2. While the bleeder screw is still tight at the clutch slave cylinder, place a pan underneath the bleeder screw fitting. Have your assistant pump the clutch lever gently several times, and then depress the lever all the way to the handlebar grip and hold it (it is very important to know that releasing the lever early could result in air being sucked into the system via the bleeder valve).
3. With a box wrench, slowly loosen the bleeder screw about one-half turn. A mixture of fluid and air should come out of the valve. As the flow from the screw fitting slows, re-tighten the bleeder screw until it is snug and completely closed, but easily loosened again. At this point, your assistant can allow the clutch lever to return to the extended position. Be sure your assistant does not allow the lever to return before you have re-tightened the screw, as doing so can result in more air being drawn into the system.
Repeat steps 1 to 3 several times, until no air, only fluid, comes out of the valve (it should not sputter or hiss at all). At this point, give the bleeder screw an extra quarter-turn to ensure it won't come loose. You don't want to over-tighten and strip either the screw or the fitting, but if the bleeder screw comes loose, you will quickly lose hydraulic fluid while riding.
Again, make sure the reservoir contains enough fluid after each round of bleeding, and again fill it to the "full" level when the process is complete.
After you're done, test the clutch out in a driveway or parking lot before taking it to the road. If you have the time after you've tested the clutch leave it parked for an hour or so with a piece of cardboard underneath the bleeder valve; this way, you can see if anything is leaking. A couple of drops is most likely nothing to worry about, as there will be residue remaining from the bleeding process, but if you find any puddles whatsoever, make sure to check that you've completely re-tightened the bleed valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/132963-1500-mean-streak-clutch-will-not-disengage-fully.html How to bleed hydraulic clutch on motorcycle in an extreme case of air... How to bleed hydraulic clutch on motorcycle VULCAN 1500 as example Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Nomad Fi Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. No power when switch is turned on http://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electrical/21038-no-electrical-power.html Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Nomad Fi Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Loud knocking in top end Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forumshttp://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/39151-nomad-topend-knock-when-cold.html Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Nomad Fi Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Nomad FI light comes on Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forumshttp://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/faqs/5165-nomad-fuel-injection-light-stays.html Kawasaki VN1500 CLASSIC TOURER Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Nomad Fi Owner Manual