KTM Motorcycles - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It may be the sincranizer (excuse the spelling)

Make sure cables are working . Follow it down to clutch and make sure clutch lever is actually moving. It is does then pull clutch in and pushbike backwards. Should release If not , plates are probably frozen through excessive heat. Replace them. If lever does not move when clutch handle pulled, then adjust or broken cable. hope that' it, easier and cheaper!

any engine engineering shop that does re-bores will have the piston and rings to suit pistons and rings are generic and not made by the engine manufacturer as for taking it back to stock it is a pointless exercise as the .040" oversize may give you a 1% increase in power if you are lucky

ITS THE CARB!!! -- take it to a qualified professional and have them clean and set the carburetor!! If you put the power valve in wrong, they can fix it too!!

It may be the electronic controller for the engine. Its probably factory set to 250 specs. You will probably have to get the software reprogrammed or get hold of a matching 350 system which allows for higher RPM.

Yes, they are vents and part of the emission system..DO NOT remove them..!!!!

Make sure the wires on the other side of the relay box are holding when you push the relay in.

http://www.servis.offmoto.com/Manualy/KTM/2008/KTM%20125_200_250_300%20SX_EXC_XC-W%20Service%20info%20-%202008/KTM%20125_200_250_300%20SX_EXC_XC-W%20Service%20info%20-%202008.rar

I think you will like this.

Have you tried an emissions test? That can tell you a lot about how the combustion is doing, and what you would need to adjust at the carburetor. Have you checked the spark plugs?

Hey.. with all that you have told me.. PLEASE - PLEASE take this machine to a QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL.. DO NOT work on this machine yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey Luke, make SURE you have the throttle cable routed correctly.. and there is some slack in the cable too...

indicates that the clutch cable or slave cylinder need adjustment as the clutch is not fully disengaging

https://youtu.be/kUzEuHYjodo

Hey E.. 176psi is fine... I have been a factory trained Yamaha for 43 years...I have seen engines run fine with 90psi..(not racing engines).. Compression is a good indicator of overall top condition of an engine. Compression Ratio is different than compression psi. Now that you have established your baseline.. you want to maintain it!! ....If you want the engine to last.. run at least a 28:1 OIL/FUEL ratio.. even a 24:1 or 20:1 is better *... settle on a ratio and RUN this ratio at ALL times... if you are fouling plugs.. get a PROFESSIONAL that KNOWS how to "jet" an engine.. you should be able to drop the main jet one size..and maybe raise the needle jet clip UP one groove..this will lean out the mixture to the correct FUEL/AIR ratio and you won't foul spark plugs and the engine will LAST a LOT longer.. >> ... *Remember..the two-cycle oil you mix with the gas ALSO lubricates the main crankshaft bearings and the rod bearings.. (replacing those are $$$$$!!) .. If you have more questions, reply to me on here...