kawasaki KE 125 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

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Hi, From what you describe it sounds like the big end bearings to me. Gearbox problems tend to be slipping in and out of gear or difficulty selecting a gear. Be careful doing this but if you place the blade of a large screw driver against the engine casing and place your ear against the handle, you can use the screwdriver as a stethoscope and listen for engine noises. It may give you an indication where the noise is coming from. Get someone to hold the bike steady with the engine running as you put the blade of the screwdriver against the engine casing and the handle close to your ear. Watch out for the hot exhaust in particular. The longer the screwdriver the better. Do take care doing this but it's an old mechanics trick to trace noise problems. Good luck, I hope you get it sorted.

Check that the connection of the wires in the block connector (near the fuel tap) from the generator to the main loom is good. When checking the the ignition timing an ohm meter is connected to the black wire at this connector, sometimes causing the wire to 'pop' out of it's location and causing intermittent/complete ignition failure.

check the points for corrosion

I used automatic transmission fluid (ATF) on my two stroke CR250. Your bike should be the same, don't forget to mix the two stroke oil with the gas.

Yes, there is a lighting coil that only powers the headlight when the engine is running, all other lights/indicators can be run off the battery when not running.

This makes 0% sense sorry.

That is a timing issue. The usual cause is the cam and crank are not in synch. If that bike has a lot of use, time to overhaul the engine.

Point gap will be .14. Make sure after you set the points at .14 you attempt to insert a .16 feeler gauge. It should not go between the points without moving them. Also, a .12 feeler gauge should slip in without any force.

6Volt 6AH

burning to hot, change air filter. adjust mix on carb, tight in and 1 and 3/4 out

If you are using choke to make it run, then the mixture is to weak. As its an old bike has anybody changed the main jet to a smaller on at some time? You can also look at the main needle itself. Some models hace a little clip on the top of the needle. If you move the clip down (there are little notches) it will raise the needle and richen the mixture. I would definately get the carb apart and check it has the correct jets and is clean.

Petseal will fisx the petrol tank and the carb is probably blocked with dead insects and corroded jets etc.

bike starts and then stalls

ck the fuel quality and timing

I don't know if I can solve it but it sounds to me like you're not getting enough fuel. has it been sitting awhile or just start doing this randomly? If it's been sitting there's a pretty good chance you'll need to clean you carburetor. when gas sits in the bowl of your carburetor for too long it will get thick and smell almost like varnish. My Suzuki 250 4x4 had a similar misfire and cleaning the carb fixed mine.

A 1978 KE125 has only one cylinder. The head does have two spark plug holes. From the factory there is a bolt in one of the holes. The thought behind having two holes is that two plugs can be in the head at the same time so that the rider can just move the spark plug wire from one plug to the other during a race without needing any tools or waste time trying to install a new spark plug. If for some reason you want to disconnect the oil pump, you would drain the oil tank then put a plug on the oil pump infeed line.

Could be that you have blown the piston rings, firstly i would remove the rear silencer, as 2 strokes bellow out exsess smoke and loose power when the silencer becomes blocked due to carbon, start and run the bike and check without the silencer, furthermore to eliminate the exhaust itself is blocked, undo it from the cylinde

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you sure their vacuum lines and not vents?