How do I remove the driver side half shaft from transaxle?

It is inside the transmission , side cover . Need to take driver side wheel off an maybe the inner fender well to see it .

Removal Procedure
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness.


Alot of steps involved to replace it .

Removal Procedure
Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Element Replacement .
Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side .
Remove the wiper module cover.
Disconnect the 20-way electrical connector at the transaxle.
Remove the shift cable bracket from the transaxle. Refer to Range Selector Lever Cable Bracket Replacement .
Install the engine support fixture and support the engine/transaxle assembly. Refer to Engine Support Fixture .
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
Disconnect the left wheel speed sensor harness connector (1).
Remove the left engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement .
Remove both stabilizer shaft links from the lower control arms. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement .
Remove the wheel speed sensor harness from the control arm (1).
Remove the left lower ball joint from the left steering knuckle. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement .
Remove the left drive axle from the transaxle. Refer to Front Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement .
Reposition and secure the drive axle.
Remove the heat shield bolts from the frame. Refer to Steering Gear Heat Shield Replacement .
Remove the steering gear-to-frame bolts and secure the steering gear.
Support the left side of the frame with a utility stand.
Remove the transaxle mount lower nuts only. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement .
Loosen the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side .
Remove the air deflector. Refer to Radiator Air Baffle Assemblies and Deflectors .
Remove only the left side frame bolts. DO NOT LOOSEN the right side frame-to-body bolts. Refer to Front Frame Replacement .
Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the frame.
Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
Remove the utility stand and lower the vehicle.
Loosen the right engine support bolts. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side .
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the transaxle mount bracket. Refer to Transmission Mount Bracket Replacement .
Remove the transaxle wiring harness connectors.


This is not a job for a amateur.

There are thee ways to do this. The first, easiest, but least reliable way is to use split boot repair kit. This allows you to cut the old boot off, clean the joint as best you can, install new grease, and bolt the split boot into place and clamp it. These boots have a higher-than-average failure rate however. The next ways require jacking up the drivers side of the car, remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. Then remove the hub nut that secures the half-shaft to the wheel bearing. Using a crowbar or other suitable tool, you must pry the inner CV joint out of the transaxle and maneuver the half-shaft out of the vehicle. You must take care not to separate the inner CV joint as it is easily damaged if overextended. You may have to separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm to remove this shaft as it is the shorter of the two and has less space to work for removal. Once you have the half-shaft out, there are two options - repair or replace. Repair requires removal of the joint from the half-shaft assembly, and it can be difficult for someone with no experience. The easier option is to replace the entire half-shaft with a re-manufactured one. The cost is not much more than that for the repair parts, plus you don't have to worry about dirt, grit and debris in the joint damaging it since it is already fully sealed. Replacement is the reverse of removal. You simply insert the shaft thru the wheel bearing opening and into the transaxle. You must "pop" the inner joint into place to latch it, otherwise it will cause damage by leaking and binding. You will feel it lock in when you do it. The last thing that is critical is that the hub nut has a specific torque requirement. Too much or too little torque will cause the wheel bearing to fail very quickly. So use a reliable torque wrench set at the correct setting. There is no "feel" for the correct tightness on this nut.

To remove an inner CV joint, you must remove the entire half-shaft from the vehicle. Here is the procedure:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Front wheel Spindle nut Lower ball joint from the knuckle
3. Press the stub shaft out of the hub, use a plaster hammer if necessary.
4. If removing the left side halfshaft:
   1. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the transaxle.
5. If removing the right side halfshaft:
   1. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the center bearing bracket.
   2. Remove the center bearing bracket mounting bolts.
   3. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the center bearing bracket from the cylinder block.
   4. Remove the inner shaft from the transaxle.
   
   
   The individual joints CAN be replaced, but this requires disassembly of the half-shaft by cutting the clamps that hold the boots and frankly is a greasy mess. Remanufactured half-shafts are available for less than $100 USD and are already assembled for immediate installation.

Try Autozone's loan-a-tool deal. The typical half-shaft remover is a fork that fits between the inner CV's housing and the transaxle case. The fork is attached to a slide hammer, only takes a blow or two to pull the half-shaft free.
Another way is to get a large screwdriver or pry bar or punch, use it against the inner CV's housing, tap it outward with a hammer. If you can get a good whack on it, it usually frees the axle. There is a circlip (ring) in a groove on the inner end of the shaft. This circlip fits in a corresponding groove in the transaxle gears. Once the ring clears the groove, the axle will slip right out.

YOU NEED A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB PUSHING THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB,THEN TAP THE SHAFT UNION AT THE JOINT CASE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER TO REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT AND INNER SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE. IF YOU HAVE AN INNER SHAFT REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT BY SETTING UP A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB AND PRESSING THE HALFSHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB. AFTER PRESSING THE OUTER SHAFT INSERT A PRYBAR BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE CASE AND THE HALFSHAFT AND PRY THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE DONT PULL ON THE SHAFT.

two axles, different for ach side. Passenger side has a carrier on the half shaft, driver side is one solid link. Loosen lug nuts, the you need a 36mm socket to loosen the center nut on the drive shaft, same for both sides. Remove the cotter pin and retainer before loosening the center nut. Jack up the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Remove wheels. Remove brake calipers and tie up out of the way. Loosen and remove lower strut bolts (2) and lower ball joint bolts (3). Swing center knuckle out and off the drive shaft. On passenger side, loosen carrier bolts (3) halfway up the drive shaft, above the exhaust pipe and crossmember. This is a pain on the 94, but easier on later models. The passenger shaft has two half shafts joined at the carrier. No retainer clip is used, so pull on the end of the shaft and it will come out. Iff the inner CV boot is puked, it will probably come out in two pieces. You may have to use a large screwdriver to pry the inner shaft out of the transaxle. The driver side does not use a carrier and will come out with a strong pull. It does use a retainer clip on the inside end of the driveshaft. You can get new driveshafts with cvs as an assembly at most auto parts stores, about 60-80 bucks with exchange. Be sure the new driver side shaft has the new retainer clip on it. Assembly is reverse of dissassembly, but make sure to tighten everything up good.

two axles, different for ach side. Passenger side has a carrier on the half shaft, driver side is one solid link. Loosen lug nuts, the you need a 36mm socket to loosen the center nut on the drive shaft, same for both sides. Remove the cotter pin and retainer before loosening the center nut. Jack up the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Remove wheels. Remove brake calipers and tie up out of the way. Loosen and remove lower strut bolts (2) and lower ball joint bolts (3). Swing center knuckle out and off the drive shaft. On passenger side, loosen carrier bolts (3) halfway up the drive shaft, above the exhaust pipe and crossmember. This is a pain on the 94, but easier on later models. The passenger shaft has two half shafts joined at the carrier. No retainer clip is used, so pull on the end of the shaft and it will come out. Iff the inner CV boot is puked, it will probably come out in two pieces. You may have to use a large screwdriver to pry the inner shaft out of the transaxle. The driver side does not use a carrier and will come out with a strong pull. It does use a retainer clip on the inside end of the driveshaft. You can get new driveshafts with cvs as an assembly at most auto parts stores Be sure the new driver side shaft has the new retainer clip on it. Assembly is reverse of dissassembly, but make sure to tighten everything up good.

yes, the left (driver) side pops off similar to the right side, however, it just pops off of the intermediate shaft instead of the transaxle. for some reason the first time i had tried it, it would not move. later when i tried it again it came off easily. go figure!

You'll have to remove the other side axle and place a screw driver or something to knock the other half of the axle out of the trans. from behind.

Removal (3000GT AWD)
1. Remove air cleaner cover, air hoses and vacuum pipe. Remove air cleaner, intake hose, battery, battery
tray and washer tank.
2. Disconnect transaxle control cables and speedometer cable. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove both inner fender splash shields. Remove clutch tube bracket and disconnect clutch release
cylinder (including clutch damper assembly on FWD models) and wire aside. Support transaxle assembly
with jack and disconnect upper transaxle mount. Remove mount, bracket, plug and stoppers.
4. Remove transaxle assembly upper coupling bolts. Disconnect tie rod ends and lower arm ball joints.
Remove right support member, starter cover (if equipped) and starter.
5. Remove left side bearing bracket mounting bolts and pry left axle shaft from transaxle. Wire left axle
shaft and inner shaft assembly aside. Pry right axle shaft from transaxle and wire aside.
6. Remove front bank side and rear bank side transaxle stays. Support transaxle assembly with a
transmission jack. Remove transaxle assembly lower coupling bolts and lower transaxle from vehicle.
7. Insert a clutch alining tool to prevent pressure plate and clutch disc from falling. Loosen pressure plate
bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping pressure plate flange. Remove pressure plate and
clutch disc.