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I have a 1997 subaru legacy outback it misfires as it reaches normal running temperature for a short while then runs normally and only misfires now and then also fuel consumption is up it is 2.5 litre non turbo
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the only way you can do this is if you can identify the gear ratios from both cars with the transmission codes found on the strut tower plate.
see this list to check for matches, read it carefully its a ton of info subarugears narod ru
the biggest draw back that you will have to check first is the ratio of the diffs you want to change. If they are not the same but will fit then you will destroy the 3rd diff in the transmission from excessive use.
I would check to make sure the radiator is full and the overflow tank is filled to the proper level. It doesn't have to be very low for these cars to stop blowing heat.
when you replaced the plugs , was one of them (cylinder 1 ) dirty and fouled ?
I'm thinking that bad rings in cylinder would give you low compression , and eventualy cause the missfire by fouling up the plug.
There is an inexpensive product that will help with the compression by filling up scratches in the cylinder walls. It is called Restore , and it is one of the only products of its type that I have used , and feel actually works.
Unfortunately , if your rings are broken , or badly worn , nothing in a bottle will fix them.
If your car had a distributor cap and rotor , I would change them too.
check the coolant level - you may have low coolant, causing the sensor to occasionally read an air pocket. If you don't correct this you will burn out your motor.
We had this problem & eventually replaced both the thermostat and radiator cap, being careful to bleed out any air pockets by running the engine form cold with the heater on hot and the radiator cap off - keep watching & topping up the coolant as the enigine heats & the thermostat opens.
Good luck!
I've had the same problem all year. I've had four different mechanics look at this car - 97 legacy with 2.5. I've had the coolant seals replaced, the radiator cap, the thermostat, the water pump - all to no avail. I've realized now that it only overheats shortly after running sustained high rpm's. Recently the last mechanic mentioned the bleeder valve (I didn't know it had one and think maybe he didn't know either - not a subaru mechanic). Recently it overheated again (again sustained high rpm's - apparently more prone to produce air in the system), I sat the vehicle on an incline (raising the bleeder valve to be the highest point) and let the car warm up and run for half an hour. Now 300 miles and no overheat. I went through alot with this car to get to this point. Unbelievable.
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