2010 Ford f150 -- I put aftermarket wheels on this truck, looks good, but the right rear wheel sticks out further then the rest. It is about 5/8 in more then the rest of the tires. Ford dealership says they will just shift the bed over, but that still isn't fixing the problem. Anyone else have a similar situation?

Debbie Campbell... hello,

I know this will sound a wee bit odd...

Let me stall you a little bit... because unless you take your vehicle off road (even if you do) there's a GOOD probability you are looking for a fairly inexpensive problem if you get to it NOW... (Catastrophic if you ignore it).

But if you care about your vehicle(s) as much as I do it might make sense right now. Life's early poverty dictated I fix things myself... (or walk).
Later life: experience and cynicism (after the "professionals" broke at least two things for every one they fixed)... I continue (happily) to fix things myself.

There are SOME places to get information in cyber-space... some good ... MOST pure HOKUM.

If you want the VERY BEST INFORMAION the BIG secret is
the FACTORY+WORKSHOP+MANUAL... 3 books
(eBay, used $150 ish).... See the eBay URL (below).

A little shopping = better deals but Volume 3 is hard to come by... CDs are also available (worlds cheaper)... but I like having the pages (copies) at my side as I work.

FOMOCO makes some of the very best... (note: Volume 3 has wiring... lots of folks leave that out... but after 50 years of steady electronics... one thing I know for sure: its ALL BATTERY & GROUND (notwithstanding contemporary "wisdom" to the contrary))... all those on-board-computers make it all quicker, better, faster, easier!

And... They have an APP for that (Bluetooth OBD service plug).
((the goal for that is the same as a GOOD WINE... the best price!).

Right now.. you don't care about any of that...
Transfer cases + drive-lines, shafts, joints are covered EXTENSIVELY in Volume 2.

If you have a hoist or a REALLY safe way to get under your vehicle... Your description logically puts it into the front drives.

Or... ask your local gas/service station if you can watch them give it a FULL-LUBE JOB... If they find something
(& their prices are NEAR RockAuto: CV = $114, U-joint = $16)...
Consider it.

The clatter... means it could be far enough to be shinning metal at the flex joints... or producing IRON OXIDE (CHOCOLATE/RUST color)... Those are the big clues. Failing to see any of that..
You are going to have to check for FREE-PLAY...

Every "U" joint or "CV" joint you have should be really snug.. any slack can be YOUR problem.

It may take you and an assistant to play the wheels back and forth... until you find the offending joint... (these troubles usually travel in pairs).

Sorry I'm so chatty... Comment me back if you've more questions.

Be safe... Chock your wheels...!!

Lotta SMART folks have run themselves over disconnecting
DRIVE LINES!

Happy hunting...

Ford 150 2010 Ford 150 Manuals

2010 Ford F150 Service Shop Repair Manual Book Set Pickup Truck

2010 FORD 150 5 4L V8 CV Joint RockAuto

2010 FORD 150 5 4L V8 Universal Joint RockAuto

Clicking Noise From Left Front Tire Area - F150online Forums

www.f150online.com/.../47713-clicking-noise-left-front-tire-area.html

Aug 11, 2001 - I have a clicking type noise comming from the left front tire. It does not ... I can really hear it when I'm driving beside a sound wall or the side of a building. ... the sound. (Yeah right!) ... Almost forgot: 1999 Ford F150 XLT Supercab 5.4 4X4. ... My 2000 4X4 had a ting ting noise coming from the left front wheel. Intermitent Grinding Noise on 2004 F150 4x4 - Page 5
Jan 15, 2010
Popping noise in front end.
Oct 26, 2009
Clicking noise at low speeds.
Aug 7, 2009
Annoying clicking sound in rear of truck?!?!
Jun 8, 2009
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ABS code C1145 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

www.ford-trucks.com > ... > 1997 - 2003 F150

Aug 20, 2009 - ABS code C1145 1997 - 2003 F150. ... C1220 Yellow ABS WarningIndicator Failure (2) C1222 Wheel Speed ... C1230 Rear ABS Sensor (Electrical/Static) (2) ... ABS light on (Anti Lock Brakes) and I hear pump when in turn ...
Oct 9, 2010
ABS code C1206-2003 F150 SuperCrew
Aug 13, 2007
ABS light C1230
Oct 22, 2006
ABS light on DTC's C1229,C1230
Nov 18, 2002
More results from www.ford-trucks.com

check wheel bearing condition and adjustment on the right wheel. Check that the pads and caliper is free on the disc rotor. Check wheel alignment. Check tyre size and tyre pressure . Check for free movement of rear brakes as a dragging rear brake will affect the steering. Check the rear end alignment as an out of align rear axle will affect the front end steering.

Look behind the front wheels and see if you have a wire going to it..If it does its 4 wheel..If you cant find a wire then its 2 wheel..Most of them are 2 wheel,,unless its a loaded edition

Pull both drums and VERY CAREFULLY compare the left and right side, check all the hardware and return springs, position of the shoes, etc. (You know that the left and right are mirror images of each other, as you look at each assembly, think "front vs. rear" not "right vs. left"
Are the shoes pulled tight against the adjuster and the top post? Check to see that the shoes are resting on the backing plates at the correct points, especially near the bottom.
Make sure the shoes are the correct size and have the same mounting points as the old shoes.

Something is wrong. While you may not feel it sticking or grabbing, the excessive heat will cause trouble, including possibly causing the outer wheel bearing to fail.

You must get this fixed, if you cannot resolve the problem, take it to someone who can. Do not ignore this and hope it will correct itself. It won't.

Try e brake cable that was my problem

Curtorsey About.com;

There is no need to replace the PCM, a dealer can reprogram the as built data to activate the Cruise control buttons that you add.

Ford dealers w/ online parts ordering get about 55 ( + Ship ) for the buttons ( MSRP is 109.60 ). They mount right in place of the blanks on the wheel ( for the CC only, the radio controls is a whole other story ).

The wiring should be in the wheel, I have seen XL 5 speed manual transmissions have the wiring in the wheel ( just needed the programming done ).

Item #6 is what you need to buy and install


If you are good with the mechanics of the work, should take about 45 min or so to mount the switches, and a trip to the dealer to change the as built data with the IDS ( WDS replacement ), and you are all set. Programming should take about 20 min, but they might charge for a full hour ( billing rules per dealer ).

I use Tasca and Southwest Ford for online parts ordering.
Trademotion path to the parts :
Collision Catalog
2006 ( I see you have a 04, same parts ) -> Ford -> F-150
Steering wheel -> Steering wheel and trim -> Cruise switch -> W/o radio controls.

yes, The springs clip onto the pads on the ends, you can see how they would hook over. Pot you silicone on the the outside of the spring