2003 Chrysler Town and Country will not turn over. Battery at 12.5 volts with no drop in voltage when key turned to start position, but I do hear a faint click sound. All lights, windows, guages appear to be working fine.

Had already cleaned the posts and terminals, because I had disconnected the battery hoping that it might reset something I don't know about. There is a starter relay in the underhood fuse box, but there are 4 more in there with the same P/N. I switched the starter relay with the accessory relay. Both still worked. The clicking sound is apparently coming from these relays, therefore I don't believe the relay is the problem. Put the battery on the charger for about 4 hours. Started out drawing only about 2 amps, and eventually went to 0. Lights are good, blower motor good, radio, everything works as should. Anyone know where the neutral switch is on this vehicle? Had already cleaned the posts and terminals, because I had disconnected the battery hoping that it might reset something I don't know about. There is a starter relay in the underhood fuse box, but there are 4 more in there with the same P/N. I switched the starter relay with the accessory relay. Both still worked. The clicking sound is apparently coming from these relays, therefore I don't believe the relay is the problem. Put the battery on the charger for about 4 hours. Started out drawing only about 2 amps, and eventually went to 0. Lights are good, blower motor good, radio, everything works as should. Anyone know where the neutral switch is on this vehicle?

I seem to be having the same problem. Does your fuel pump come on (faint humming or hissing sound?) when you turn the key? Mine does not. I have the same clicking in relay. My wife said the van turned over and started twice but shut off right away. Then the starter would not crank and fuel pump would not run. Same problem? I seem to be having the same problem. Does your fuel pump come on (faint humming or hissing sound?) when you turn the key? Mine does not. I have the same clicking in relay. My wife said the van turned over and started twice but shut off right away. Then the starter would not crank and fuel pump would not run. Same problem?

I don't hear the fuel pump either. I jumped the starter and it turns over, so I know that its not the starter or solenoid. As I said before, I don't believe it's the starter relay, as I've swapped them out with no change. I think there is a "transmission range sensor" inside the transmission, but moving the shift lever to different positions has no effect either. Still, it could be the problem I guess. I've read that there are components in the "integrated power module" such as the ignition switch output and starter relay control that could be malfunctioning. It could be the ignition switch itself.



Based on what I've read, here is what I'm trying next: There is a yellow wire coming from the ignition switch that should have power when the switch is turned to the start position. I will check that from under the dash, right out of the ignition switch. If no power, then I might suspect the switch. If there is, then there should also be current at terminal 86, and through a dark green/orange wire to terminal 85 of the starter motor relay. (Terminal numbers are marked on the bottom of the relay) If you pull the relay half way out of its socket, you can get a test light or volt meter on the terminals to see if there is current. If no current, the problem must be between the ignition switch and the starter relay. If current is present at terminals 85 and 86, then there should also be current present at terminal 87, which goes to the starter. I don't know if there are any replaceable components here, so if someone knows the answer, please let us know.



As far as the fuel pump, it should be activated when the ignition switch is in the run position. I don't have the terminal numbers for the ignition switch, but there are only 5 terminals, ACC, LOCK, OFF, RUN and START. Using a test light and turning the key to the different positions, you should be able to determine which wire does what. This might also help verify that the ignition switch is working properly.



This is what I'm doing based on what I've been able to find out. No promises, no guarantees, just my own logic. Hope it helps. I don't hear the fuel pump either. I jumped the starter and it turns over, so I know that its not the starter or solenoid. As I said before, I don't believe it's the starter relay, as I've swapped them out with no change. I think there is a "transmission range sensor" inside the transmission, but moving the shift lever to different positions has no effect either. Still, it could be the problem I guess. I've read that there are components in the "integrated power module" such as the ignition switch output and starter relay control that could be malfunctioning. It could be the ignition switch itself.

Based on what I've read, here is what I'm trying next: There is a yellow wire coming from the ignition switch that should have power when the switch is turned to the start position. I will check that from under the dash, right out of the ignition switch. If no power, then I might suspect the switch. If there is, then there should also be current at terminal 86, and through a dark green/orange wire to terminal 85 of the starter motor relay. (Terminal numbers are marked on the bottom of the relay) If you pull the relay half way out of its socket, you can get a test light or volt meter on the terminals to see if there is current. If no current, the problem must be between the ignition switch and the starter relay. If current is present at terminals 85 and 86, then there should also be current present at terminal 87, which goes to the starter. I don't know if there are any replaceable components here, so if someone knows the answer, please let us know.

As far as the fuel pump, it should be activated when the ignition switch is in the run position. I don't have the terminal numbers for the ignition switch, but there are only 5 terminals, ACC, LOCK, OFF, RUN and START. Using a test light and turning the key to the different positions, you should be able to determine which wire does what. This might also help verify that the ignition switch is working properly.

This is what I'm doing based on what I've been able to find out. No promises, no guarantees, just my own logic. Hope it helps.

Completed the tests described in my comments of July 20. Everything checked out, by that I mean the ignition switch, relays, etc. There was just no current being sent to the starter circuit. So, I basically gave up and took it to a local repair shop. 3 hours of diagnosis later, they determined it to be the ECM or as some call it the PCM (Electronic Control Module or Power Control Module) that needs to be replaced. The ECM runs about $600 through a dealer, plus programming and remove and replace labor. However, I found a couple of places in Florida on the internet where you can get one for under $300. All they need is the vehicle VIN#, mileage and the part number of the ECM. The p/n starts with a P and should be on the module. I ordered the ECM myself to save the repair shop markup, and will take it to the repair shop for them to install. The ECM hasn't come in yet, but will post the outcome when it does. Completed the tests described in my comments of July 20. Everything checked out, by that I mean the ignition switch, relays, etc. There was just no current being sent to the starter circuit. So, I basically gave up and took it to a local repair shop. 3 hours of diagnosis later, they determined it to be the ECM or as some call it the PCM (Electronic Control Module or Power Control Module) that needs to be replaced. The ECM runs about $600 through a dealer, plus programming and remove and replace labor. However, I found a couple of places in Florida on the internet where you can get one for under $300. All they need is the vehicle VIN#, mileage and the part number of the ECM. The p/n starts with a P and should be on the module. I ordered the ECM myself to save the repair shop markup, and will take it to the repair shop for them to install. The ECM hasn't come in yet, but will post the outcome when it does.

After eliminating all other possible problems such as the battery, connections, starter and relay, ignition switch, etc, it turned out that the problem was in the ECM itself. A remanufactured module was purchased from a company in Florida for $269 $20 shipping. Van is now up and running. After eliminating all other possible problems such as the battery, connections, starter and relay, ignition switch, etc, it turned out that the problem was in the ECM itself. A remanufactured module was purchased from a company in Florida for $269 $20 shipping. Van is now up and running.