Timing marks for 4.0 sohc , the timing chain has been removed, put new one in,,, need timming marks

remember 1 thing..dont confuse cam timing with ignition timing also if the belt or chain has alignment dots or marks on it ..it can be put on backwards and still line up marks correctly but but in a different position making the cam timming off i have done it and seen it done before like an old chevy when you put timming gear set on you line up the 2 dots alot of people think that is tdc and they set up ignition and go to start it and get pops and bangs well thats because the the install dots are actully 180 degrees out from tdc so you remove the distributor and turn it 180 deg. and now she starts right up i think you have 1 of these cams a tooth off or your using marks incorectly or belt or chain is backwards making dots align in different postion appearing correct

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/lee_9bf2e1a3cef596dc

Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets

some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com

My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.

TIMMING IS NOT ADJUSTABLE. IT IS ALL COMPUTER CONTROLED. THE ONLY TIMMING IS THE MARKS ON THE CHAIN AND GEARS.

Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.2L Engine Fig. 1: The timing marks on the sprockets should be in alignment. If not, turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned
Fig. 2: The timing chain tensioner is retained by a Torx head bolt (1) and a regular hex head bolt (2)
Fig. 3: Unfasten the camshaft sprocket bolt
Fig. 4: Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain at the same time . . .
Fig. 5: . . . then remove the tensioner assembly
Fig. 6: Compress the tensioner spring and insert a cotter pin or nail in the hole provided to hold the tensioner in position

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the front cover as previously detailed.
3. Place the No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke so that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are in alignment (see illustration).
4. Loosen the timing chain tensioner nut as far as possible without actually removing it.
5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and remove the sprocket and chain together. If the sprocket does not slide from the camshaft easily, a light blow with a soft mallet at the lower edge of the sprocket will dislodge it.
6. Using a suitable gear puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket. To install:
   
7. Press the crankshaft sprocket back onto the crankshaft.
8. Install the timing chain over the camshaft sprocket and then around the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that the marks on the two sprockets are in alignment (see illustration). Lubricate the thrust surface with Molykote® or its equivalent.
9. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the sprocket and then install the sprocket onto the camshaft. Use the mounting bolts to draw the sprocket onto the camshaft and then tighten to 66-68 ft. lbs. (91-95 Nm).
10. Lubricate the timing chain with clean engine oil. Tighten the chain tensioner.
11. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprockets - 2.2L OHV engine
    

Timing Chain and Sprockets
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. 
   
   
   
   Fig. 1: At 90 degrees past TDC, the crankshaft sprocket timing
   mark and keyway will align with the main bearing cap split line
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 2: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprocket
   assembly - SOHC engine
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 3: Insert the timing pin to ensure that the camshaft is at
   No. 1 TDC - SOHC engine
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 4: When the camshaft is at TDC, rotate the crankshaft
   counterclockwise 90 degrees to achieve TDC
   
   

DOHC Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the timing chain front cover.
   NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the
   crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC) to make sure the pistons will
   not contact the valves upon assembly.
   
   
   
3. Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the
   crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line.
   
4. Remove the bolts, then remove the timing guides and tensioner.
   
5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts, using a 7?8 in. (21mm) wrench
   to hold the camshaft. Then remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket. Remove
   the crankshaft sprocket, if necessary.
   To install:
   
   
6. Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the
   chain, it should be no more than 23.15 in. (588mm). Inspect the chain guides for
   wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace
   components as necessary.
   
7. Verify that the crankshaft is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC. The
   crankshaft keyway should be at 3 o'clock aligned with the main bearing cap split
   line to prevent piston and valve damage.
   
8. Install the camshaft sprockets, retaining bolts and washers. Make sure the
   letters FRT on the sprockets face forward, away from the cylinder block. Use the
   wrench flats provided on the camshafts to hold the shaft and tighten the bolts
   to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
   
9. Bring the camshafts up to No. 1 TDC by rotating the camshafts and sprocket
   until the dowel pins are at 12 o'clock. Install a 1?6 in. drill bit
   into the hole in the sprocket about 9 o'clock.
   
10. If removed, install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft
    counterclockwise 90 degree up to No. 1 TDC (keyway and sprocket timing mark at
    12 o'clock, in alignment with the block timing mark).
    
11. Position the timing chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the
    camshaft sprockets so 2 silver link plates align with the reference marks on the
    camshaft sprockets and another 2 plates align with the downward tooth (at 6
    o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. Excess chain slack should be
    located on the tensioner side of the cylinder block.
    
12. Verify that the crankshaft reference mark aligns with the cylinder block
    mark at 12 o'clock and that the timing pins are installed in the holes at about
    the 9 o'clock position. Remove the timing pins from the camshaft sprockets.
    
13. Install the timing chain fixed guide to the right of the block face toward
    the water pump. Tighten the bolts to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) and verify the chain is
    snug against the guide.
    
14. Install the pivoting chain guide and check for clearance between the block
    and head. Tighten the bolt to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify the guide pivots
    freely.
    
15. Install the 2 forward camshaft bearing caps and the upper timing chain
    guide, then tighten the retaining bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
    
16. Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1?8 in. (3.18mm) No.
    31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the lower front of the component.
    Install the tensioner and tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove
    the drill bit.
    
17. Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then
    remove all timing pins.
    
18. Install the timing chain front cover.
    
19. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 5: Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark
    on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 6: Loosen the timing chain tensioner mounting bolt . . .
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 7: . . . and remove the tensioner from the engine block
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 8: Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever
    with a 1?8
    in. (3.18mm) drill bit inserted in the alignment hole
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 9: Remove the mounting fasteners from both timing guides .
    . .
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 10: . . . and remove the timing guides from the engine
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 11: Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts, using a 7?8 in. (21mm) wrench
    to hold the camshaft
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 12: Remove the timing chain and camshaft sprockets
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 13: Insert the timing pins to verify that the camshafts
    are at TDC
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 14: Make sure that the silver link plates and reference
    marks are all in alignment as shown
    
    

possibly you are 180 degrees off.
the timing marks are dimples on the gears to align up.
paint will be no use at all to use and have never heard of anyone using paint .
use paint on a crack balancer for the timing mark ony

didnt you mark it before you removed the old belt??

the timing is set to 8 degrees at 700 rpm...if it helps any

get a haynes manual and look up camshaft replacement..its worth the 30 bucks

i'am a little confused here. are you saying it jumped time and you took it apart and put new timmimg gear and chain in? and don't know if you got marks lined up right, between cam gear and crank gear?