What is the case surrounding the piston - 2006 Isuzu i-350

If the engine the figures are required for is a re-ring using the original pistons it is important to check the amount of wear of the bore and of the piston groove clearance.

Once the ring gap is set to the minimum at an unworn part of the cylinder bore the gap should be rechecked at the most worn part and if the gap exceeds the maximum it indicates an excessively worn cylinder bore.
While this is not immediately detrimental it does mean the piston ring grooves will wear much more quickly and the job will have a shorter life and in some cases a high oil consumption can be worsened.

The piston ring groove clearance - side clearance between the ring and the piston should be 0.0015 inch maximum. It can be expected the top groove could be considerably worn and in that case new pistons would be beneficial or a Cord ring set.

2 possible answers
hydraulic washers in use have a steel surround with a rubber insert which acts a a seal
the rubber seals off and the steel stops hydraulic pressure from pushing it out of place
or the there is a crack in the thread where the hex nut is
get a new washer from a hydraulic shop and if that doesn't fix it, you may have to get a new valve body
discuss the problem when you are at the hydraulic shop for more ideas

Either the crankcase is overfilled with oil or the breather for the crankcase is obstructed or the engine is worn and has excessive cylinder blow by past the piston rings.

The term "o-ring" usually is in reference to some sort of rubber or neoprene ring that serves as a gasket or seal for something. Pistons do not have o-rings, but they do have piston rings. There are usually three or more rings on each piston. They are split rings of steel that are inserted into grooves of the outer circumference of the piston. They seal the piston to the cylinder walls and prevent the air/fuel mix from getting past the piston into the crankcase and prevents the crankcase oil from being sucked into the cylinders. With the pistons rings, the cylinders would not have sufficient compression to do their job effectively. Rings can and do break from time to time. This can cause degradation of performance or in the worst-case scenarios, serious cylinder damage.

Here is the procedure:-

1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.



2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.



3. Remove oil pump and strainer.

TIMING GEAR COVER

1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.



2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS

1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
   

Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.

1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.



2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.



3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.



4. Remove injection pump drive gear.



5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.

CAMSHAFT

1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.



2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.

PISTON & CONNECTING ROD

1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.



2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.



3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.

CRANKSHAFT

1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.



2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.



3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

Possible broken piston ring or hole in a piston

hi i had this problem my self not all of 2 weeks ago rebuilding a holden rodeo c22ne motor had bad miss new plugs will do you no good on this one
in my case the side of the piston had cracked the three ring holes right threw leaving only the oil ring intact in this case if you have replaced coil and spark plugs and all sensors its almost betting to be a busted piston do a compression test to see your pistons should be around 190 psi if number one is down a long way ie in my case 50 psi its about $250 to fix your self and you have to buy all pistons no use buying one only

all timing marks should have been marked up before pulling the engine down. check for 'notches' in the cam and crank pulleys with matching notches on the surrounding cases. be sure not to bend valves. remove spark/glow plugs to allow easier turning over of the engine, this way u will 'feel' if a pistons comes into contact with a valve. with the timing built up. turn over the engine by hand (a wrench on the main crank bolt NOT the cams) a full 360 degrees to ensure there will be no contact between engine internals during start up. if there is there will be bent valves = lots of money, so make certain before u start. good luck

what it probably is is you need new piston rings. the oil is splashed up from the crank case onto the bottom of the pistons, which keeps them lubricated. the piston rings are what seal the combustion chamber off from the crank case and when they go bad, oil gets into the combustion chamber and is burned.

There is no "easiest way" to remove the pads. You need to unbolt the calipers, (bolts are on the inboard side surrounded by small rubber boots) retract the caliper pistons and remove/replace pads,(make note if any pads are marked R&L) put it back together. Make sure that slides that caliper bolts pass through move freely. Don't use calipers with torn rubber dust boots and don't pinch boot between pad and piston when you reassemble. Unless you open the hydraulic system you do not need to bleed. Before attempting to drive, depress pedal a few times to restore proper caliper adjustment.