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Posted on Mar 29, 2017

Alpine cda 105 DC ERROR only when engines running

I have an alpine hu cda105 and i just installed 6 new infinity 6032cfs in my car + the 12'' infinity sub and amp, + 6 other speakers in just my trunk and for some reason unknown to me it keeps reading dc error which means theres a wire grounding out some where but... i just took all the doors and speakers out and everything is connected and fine. plus when the cars in acc power (engine not running) the speakers work fine and can go as loud as i feel but when the engine is running the speakers can only go for a while before a dc error is poping up... so my thoughts are 1. a new/bigger battery?? 2.bigger amp 3. shorted wire 4. just burn the dam thing and say it was stolen?? lol thanks for any help

5 Related Answers

5LTRBTR

Kevin Blair

  • 196 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2008

SOURCE: 1990 subarru legacy 4 door car 2.0

have you checked the knock sensor? This is a common issue with the older models it will give a rough idle and reduced gas mileage.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 01, 2009

SOURCE: Battery Drain in 4 days

In my case, the problem turned out to be the after-market radio which is on the same circuit as the interior lights and clock. Once it was changed, the problem was solved.

Anonymous

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: Check engine light is on in my 1993 Subaru Loyale

i would suggest disconnecting the battery for 30mns then connecting this some times clears the code othr wise replace the sensor

martin538

steven martin

  • 117 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 08, 2009

SOURCE: check engine light flashing

Ok, well I doubt very much that changing the engine would cure all of the faults. If say a piston had gone bad ( and they have been known to without warning) it would not cause all of the fault codes to read. I would start checking all of the wiring connections especially the earth wires as the early Subarus did not have very good wiring. Also check to make sure no water has got into the fusebox area.

motor1258

Mike Butler

  • 6674 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2009

SOURCE: 2004 subaru forester, 99,000 miles. Check engine

Drop in to an Autozone, or Pep Boys, or similar big parts store & they will usually scan for codes free. This will hopefully eliminate all the guess work, or at least point everyone in right direction for better diagnosis. If not obvious from codes what the problem is, get back to us and we'll help you out.

Testimonial: "Thanks for the great suggestion . I'll have Autozone read the codes on Monday. Thanks again!"

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How do I remove tank?

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On a 3.8L what is the aspec diagram and tourque for the racker arm

Hi Juan, I'm AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair

Below is the torque specs for the rocker arm as you requested.

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. Camshaft Sprocket-Bolt 54 40 - Camshaft Thrust Plate-Bolts 12 - 105 Forged Connecting Rod Cap-Nuts 54 +¼ turn 40 +¼ turn - Cracked Connecting Rod Cap-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - INSTALLATION) Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap-Bolts 41 +¼ turn 30 +¼ turn - Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Cross Bolts (3.8L) 61 45 - Crankshaft Oil Seal Retainer Rear-Bolts 12 - 105 Crankshaft Damper-Bolt 54 40 - Cylinder Block Drain Plugs 20 15 - Cylinder Head-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION) Cylinder Head Cover-Bolts 12 - 105 Flex Plate to Crankshaft 88 65 - Engine Mounting (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING) Powertrain Torque Strut 54 40 - Exhaust Manifold-Bolts 23 - 200 Exhaust Crossover Pipe-Bolts 54 40 - Intake Manifold - Lower-Bolts 23 - 200 Intake Manifold - Lower Gasket Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Intake Manifold Upper-Bolts 12 - 105 Lifter Yoke Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Filter Attaching Fitting 54 40 - Oil Cooler Attaching Fitting 27 20 - Oil Filter 20 15 - Oil Filter Adapter-Bolts 28 - 250 Oil Gallery Plug 27 20 - Oil Pan-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Pan Drain-Plug 27 20 - Oil Pressure Switch 23 - 200 Oil Pump Cover Plate-Screws 12 - 105 Oil Pump Pick-up Tube-Bolt 28 - 250 Oil Dipstick Housing-Bolts 48 35 - Rocker Arm Shaft-Bolts 23 - 200 Spark Plug 16 12 - Thermostat Housing 12 - 105 Timing Chain Case Cover -M8 Bolt 27 20 - -M10 Bolt 54 40 - Water Pump-Bolts 12 - 105 Water Pump Pulley-Bolts 28 - 250
Should you need extra help visit my website here: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/
0helpful
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What is the torque spec for a 2003 jeep wrangler 2.4 connecting rods

  • ENGINE 2.4L

DESCRIPTION

N·m

Ft. Lbs.

In. Lbs.

Balance Shaft Carrier to Block-Bolts

54

40

-

Balance Shaft Gear Cover-Double Ended Fastener

12

-

105

Balance Shaft Sprocket- Bolt

28

-

250

Balance Shaft Chain Tensioner-Bolts

12

-

105

Balance Shaft Carrier Cover-Bolts

12

-

105

Camshaft Sprocket-Bolt

101

75

-

Connecting Rod Cap-Bolts

54 +1/4 turn

40 +1/4 turn

-

Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate - M8 Bolts

34

250

-

M11 Bolts

41 +1/4 Turn

30 +1/4 Turn

-

Crankshaft Damper

136

100

-

Cylinder Head Cover- Bolts

12

-

105

Flex Plate to Crankshaft

95

70

-

Flywheel Mounting Bolts

81

60

-

Engine Mount Bracket Right-Bolts

61

45

-

Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head-Bolts

23

-

200

Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield-Bolts

12

-

105

Intake Manifold - Lower -Bolts

28

-

250

Oil Filter

20

15

-

Oil Pan-Bolts

12

-

105

Oil Pan Drain-Plug

27

20

-

Oil Pump to Block-Bolts

28

-

250

Oil Pump Cover Plate-Bolts

12

-

105

Oil Pump Pick-up Tube-Bolt

28

20

-

Oil Pump Relief Valve-Cap

41

30

-

Spark Plugs

28

Timing Belt Covers - Front Covers to Rear Cover-Bolts

12

-

105

- Rear Cover-Bolts

12

-

105

Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly-Bolts

61

45

-

2helpful
1answer

What is the torque spec for the cam bearings on a 1998 dodge stratus with a 2.4 L?

Hi, the spec is 105 in. lbs. I have pasted the entire procedure below from autozone.com.
Thanks for using FixYa.


To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean the camshafts and related parts.
  2. The hydraulic valve lash adjusters are inside the roller camshaft followers. Make sure they are clean, well lubricated with clean engine oil and properly positioned. Install the camshaft followers in their original positions on the hydraulic adjuster and valve stem.
WARNING Make sure NONE of the pistons are at Top Dead Center (TDC) when installing the camshafts.
  1. Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals and camshaft followers with clean engine oil and install the camshafts. Install the right and left camshaft bearing caps No. 2 through No. 5 and right side No. 6. Tighten the M6 fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm) in the correct sequence.


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Fig. Fig. 3: Camshaft bearing cap tightening sequence-DOHC engines


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Fig. Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap sealant application-DOHC engines

  1. Apply Mopar® Gasket Maker or equivalent sealer to the No. 1 and left side No. 6 bearing caps. Install the bearing caps and tighten the M8 fasteners to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). The end caps must be installed before the seals can be installed.
  2. Install the camshaft end seals.
  3. Reinstall the camshaft sprockets, if removed. Install the timing belt, taking care to make sure all timing marks are properly aligned, using the recommended procedure. Use care. DO NOT allow oil or solvents to contact the timing belt, as they can deteriorate the rubber and cause tooth skipping.
WARNING Verify that all timing marks are correct. If the timing belt or sprockets are incorrectly installed, engine damage will occur. Take time to make sure all timing marks are correctly aligned.
  1. Install the timing belt covers.
  2. Clean all valve cover sealing surfaces. Make certain the rails are flat.
  3. Install a new valve cover gasket. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at the camshaft cap corners and at the top edge of the 1 / 2 round seal.
Inspect the spark plug well seals for cracking and/or swelling, and replace if necessary.
  1. Install the valve cover assembly to the cylinder head and tighten the fasteners in sequence, using the following 3 steps:
    1. First: tighten all valve cover fasteners to 40 inch lbs. (4.5 Nm).
    2. Second: tighten all fasteners to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
    3. Third: tighten all fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

  2. Install the ignition coil pack and connect the spark plug wiring to the correct spark plugs. Tighten the coil pack retaining fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Reconnect the engine ground strap.
  4. Check to be sure all vacuum lines and remaining wiring have been reconnected.
  5. An oil and filter change is recommended.
  6. Reconnect the negative battery cable and test run vehicle. Check for leaks and for proper operation.
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Remove thermostat

300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, 1998-2004
THERMOSTAT - Removal & Installation

2.7L Engine
  1. Disconnect negative cable.
    CAUTION Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
  4. Remove nuts from heater tube flange studs.
  5. Loosen starter bolt at heater tube bracket.
  6. Pull heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.
  7. Remove bolt and two studs.
  8. Remove thermostat housing, O-ring and thermostat.
  9. Remove thermostat housing bolts.

To install:
  1. Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
    NOTE Install thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position, between tabs on seal.
  2. Install thermostat and seal into thermostat housing .
  3. If removed, install two studs.
  4. Install thermostat, thermostat housing and O-ring and bolt. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs.(12 Nm).
  5. Lubricate new heater return tube O-ring with coolant.
  6. Position heater return tube flange over two studs. Install nuts.
  7. Tighten retaining nuts to 53 inch lbs.(6 Nm).
  8. Tighten starter bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54.3 Nm).
  9. Connect the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install hose clamps.
  10. Refill cooling system.
  11. Inspect for leaks.
  12. Connect negative cable.

3.2L & 3.5L Engines
  1. Disconnect negative cable.
    CAUTION Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  4. Disconnect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  5. Disconnect radiator and heater hoses from thermostat housing.
  6. Remove thermostat housing bolts.
  7. Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
    NOTE The OEM thermostat is staked in place at the factory. To ensure proper seating of replacement thermostat, carefully remove the bulged metal from the thermostat housing using a suitable hand held grinder. It is not necessary to restake the replacement thermostat into the thermostat housing.

To install:
  1. Position gasket on thermostat and housing.
  2. Install thermostat housing, gasket and mounting bolts onto block. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Install radiator hose.
  4. Install bypass hose.
  5. Connect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  6. Connect negative cable.
  7. Fill cooling system.
  8. Inspect for leaks.
  9. Lower vehicle on hoist.

Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).
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1answer

How to replace thermostat

300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, 1998-2004 - Thermostat Removal & Installation 2.7L Engine
  1. Disconnect negative cable.
    CAUTION Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
  4. Remove nuts from heater tube flange studs.
  5. Loosen starter bolt at heater tube bracket.
  6. Pull heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.
  7. Remove bolt and two studs.
  8. Remove thermostat housing, O-ring and thermostat.
  9. Remove thermostat housing bolts.
To install:
  1. Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
    NOTE Install thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position, between tabs on seal.
  2. Install thermostat and seal into thermostat housing .
  3. If removed, install two studs.
  4. Install thermostat, thermostat housing and O-ring and bolt. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs.(12 Nm).
  5. Lubricate new heater return tube O-ring with coolant.
  6. Position heater return tube flange over two studs. Install nuts.
  7. Tighten retaining nuts to 53 inch lbs.(6 Nm).
  8. Tighten starter bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54.3 Nm).
  9. Connect the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install hose clamps.
  10. Refill cooling system.
  11. Inspect for leaks.
  12. Connect negative cable.
3.2L & 3.5L Engines
  1. Disconnect negative cable.
    CAUTION Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.

  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  4. Disconnect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  5. Disconnect radiator and heater hoses from thermostat housing.
  6. Remove thermostat housing bolts.
  7. Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
    NOTE The OEM thermostat is staked in place at the factory. To ensure proper seating of replacement thermostat, carefully remove the bulged metal from the thermostat housing using a suitable hand held grinder. It is not necessary to restake the replacement thermostat into the thermostat housing.
To install:
  1. Position gasket on thermostat and housing.
  2. Install thermostat housing, gasket and mounting bolts onto block. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Install radiator hose.
  4. Install bypass hose.
  5. Connect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  6. Connect negative cable.
  7. Fill cooling system.
  8. Inspect for leaks.
  9. Lower vehicle on hoist.

Hope helps with this (remember rated this) Good luck.
1helpful
1answer

I need to know where the location of the thermostat is on a 1999 chrysler 300m so i can replace

The 2.7L engine lower radiator hose, connects to the thermostat housing.

To Remove:
1.Disconnect the Negative battery cable.
(Engine COLD!)
  1. Drain cooling system.
  2. Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
  3. Remove nuts from heater tube flange studs.
  4. Loosen starter bolt at heater tube bracket.
  5. Pull heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.
  6. Remove bolt and two studs.
  7. Remove thermostat housing, O-ring and thermostat.
  8. Remove thermostat housing bolts.
To install:
A.Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
B.Install thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position, between tabs on seal.
  1. Install thermostat and seal into thermostat housing .
  2. If removed, install two studs.
  3. Install thermostat, thermostat housing and O-ring and bolt. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs.(12 Nm).
  4. Lubricate new heater return tube O-ring with coolant.
  5. Position heater return tube flange over two studs. Install nuts.
  6. Tighten retaining nuts to 53 inch lbs.(6 Nm).
  7. Tighten starter bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54.3 Nm).
  8. Connect the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install hose clamps.
  9. Refill cooling system.
  10. Inspect for leaks.
  11. Connect negative cable.
3.2 and 3.5L engines:
Disconnect the battery cable. (Again engine COLD)
  1. Drain cooling system.
  2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  3. Disconnect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  4. Disconnect radiator and heater hoses from thermostat housing.
  5. Remove thermostat housing bolts.
  6. Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
The OEM thermostat is staked in place at the factory. To ensure proper seating of replacement thermostat, carefully remove the bulged metal from the thermostat housing, using a suitable hand held grinder. It is not necessary to restake the replacement thermostat, into the thermostat housing.

To Install:
  1. Position gasket on thermostat and housing.
  2. Install thermostat housing, gasket and mounting bolts onto block. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Install radiator hose.
  4. Install bypass hose.
  5. Connect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  6. Connect negative cable.
  7. Fill cooling system.
  8. Inspect for leaks.
  9. Lower vehicle on hoist.
From AutoZone Repair Guides

I feel this way, I can give you an accurate description, and have taken into account your safety.
0helpful
1answer

Rear speakers do not work with aftermarket stereo install

I had the same problem a while back after having a JVC MP£ player fitted at Halfords. The guy told me my sub-woofer behind the back seat wouldn't work with the new stereo which I said was ridiculous, then one of the other guys came to look and told him I needed a different cable to link everything together - then it worked brilliantly.
Sorry I dont know a part number but that is definately your problem.
I hope this helps - or better still that you already have it sorted !!
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