I broke the nut off when I was tightening the housing for the thermastate. What do I do now?

Remove the intake obviously & then
remove the stud

You'll probably have to drill out the bolt. Very carefully.
If there is any part of the bolt sticking out you may be able to use vise grips.

You can replace it. There are several types of screw extractors out there. They usually come with a drill bit for the correct size extractor. You will need to find out what size stud it is. Once you have determined that chose the appropriate size drill bit and extractor. Lowes or home depot carry them. Drill into the center of the broken stud. Be careful not to drill too deep as you might damage the thermostat housing. Once you have drill into the stud use the extractor to remove the broken stud. Napa auto parts or autozone should carry the stud size and length that you need. Purchase a stud and 2 plain nuts that match the thread of the stud. The nuts will be used to install the stud. Thread The stud into the thermostat housing. Once it is tight by hand stop. Thread the first plain nut onto the stud far enough so that you can get the second nut onto the stud and have a thread or two sticking out of the second nut. Once the two nuts are on the stud hold the first nut with a wrench and tighten the second nut tight against it. This will allow you to finish installing the stud. Once the nuts are tightened together, use a wrench (on the second nut only) to run the stud down into the thermostat housing. Do not overtighten the stud as you may crack the housing. Run the stud down into the housing unit the stud is the same height as the existing stud. Then use a wrench to hold the second nut and loosen the fist nut away from the second nut. Remove both nuts from the stud. You stud is now installed and you can reinstall the thermostat. If you have any questions you can email me at [email protected] Good luck

Assuming you have the 2.7 liter engine, the thermostat is where the lower radiator hose returns to the engine.

2.7L Engine

1. Disconnect negative cable.
   CAUTIONDo not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
   
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
4. Remove nuts from heater tube flange studs.
5. Loosen starter bolt at heater tube bracket.
6. Pull heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.
7. Remove bolt and two studs.
8. Remove thermostat housing, O-ring and thermostat.
9. Remove thermostat housing bolts.

To install:

1. Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
   NOTEInstall thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position, between tabs on seal.
   
2. Install thermostat and seal into thermostat housing .
3. If removed, install two studs.
4. Install thermostat, thermostat housing and O-ring and bolt. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs.(12 Nm).
5. Lubricate new heater return tube O-ring with coolant.
6. Position heater return tube flange over two studs. Install nuts.
7. Tighten retaining nuts to 53 inch lbs.(6 Nm).
8. Tighten starter bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54.3 Nm).
9. Connect the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install hose clamps.
10. Refill cooling system.
11. Inspect for leaks.
12. Connect negative cable.

Water pump is driven by timing chain idler and is mounted on the rear of the timing chain housing. Disconnect the neg. battery cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect oxygen sensor connector.
Remove upper exhaust manifould heat sheild. Remove exhaust manifold brace. Remove lower exhaust manifold heat sheild. Loosen manifold to exhaust manifold spring loaded nuts. Remove radiator outlet pipe to water pump coverbolts. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Pull down on the exhaust pipe to disconnect it from exhaust manifold bolts. Disconnect outlet pipe from oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with manual tranaxle, remove exhaust maifold brace. Leave lower radiator hose attached and pull down on radiator out look pipe to disengauge from water pump. Leave outlet pipe hanging.
Lower vehicle. Remove exhaustmanifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove exhaust manifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove manifould. Remove timing chain front cover. Remove timing chain tensioner. Remove bolts bolts securing water pump cover to cylinder block. Remove water pump to timing chain housing nuts. Remove water pump attaching nuts. Remove water pump and cover assembly. Separate componets as necessary.
WHEN INSTALLING WATER PUMP MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCES THAT AFFECT SEALING. My frist one I messed up and broke the pump so becarful.
Installation
If cover was separated from body during removal, join this componets with a new gasket and hand tighten bolts. Apply bearing grease to splines of water pump drive. Set body and assemble into position.
Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Installand hand tighten nuts securing body to timing chain housing. Lubracate outlet pipe "O" ring with antifreeze. (I use RTV) Connect outlet pipe. Install and hand tighten bolts. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification in the following sequence. I'll ad the torque spec. at the end but this is where if you tighten out of order something will break.
pump assembly to timing chain housing nuts.
pump cover to pump body bolts
pump cover to cylinder block bolts (Bottom Bolt First)
outlet pipe to cover bolts
To complete installation reverse removel procedure.
Torque specs are 19 in. or 26mm all except water pump cover bolts which are 124 in or 14Nm
I never torque the bolts just make sure there done in the right order.

This is for the hub....front hub:

1. Install the hub with a new gasket and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
   
2. Install the bolt and washer and tighten it to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
   
3. Coat the inner hub splines with grease.
   
4. Make sure the control handle on the cover is still at FREE (if not automatic), position a new gasket in the cover and install the cover so that the pawl tabs are lines up with the non-toothed portions of the hub body. Tighten the mounting nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
   

This is for the rear hub:

To install:

1. Place the hub on the axle housing and install the outer bearing.
   
2. Install the lock plate with the lock plate tab positioned into the groove of the axle housing.
   
3. Install and tighten the adjusting nut with the special tool used during removal.
   
4. Torque the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). Rotate the hub a few times and retorque the adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm).
   
5. Loosen the adjusting nut until the hub can be turned by hand.
   
6. Tighten the nut a small amount and check the amount of pressure required to rotate the hub using a spring tension gauge.
   
7. The recommended rotational torque is 5.7-12.6 lbs. (1984-88: 0.9-7.3 lbs.). Tighten or loosen the adjusting nut as required to obtain this reading.
   
8. Align one of the axle housing slots with one of the adjusting nut slots. Install the lock screws into the holes of the adjusting nut which are at right angles to the aligned slots. Torque the lock screws to 35-60 inch lbs.
   
9. Recheck the rational torque and install the axle shaft using a new gasket.
   
10. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.
    

Next post is for axles.

Not “thermastate,” “thermostat.”

Put a bucket under it, and open the radiator drain valve.
Find the upper radiator hose.
Follow it to the engine
That which it is pushed onto is the thermostat housing.
Unclamp the upper radiator hose at the engine.
Pull it off of the thermostat housing
Remove the bolts holding the thermostat housing to the engine, & remove it
Clean the gasket surface on the engine, and on the thermostat housing
place the new thermostat in position. If the thermostat is vertical, I put a liece of dental floss or sewing thread through it, thered them out the radiator hose hole, and hold both ends to keep it in position. The copper button goes on the engine side, leaving those supporting arms to wrap the thread through.
With the thermostat in position, and the gasket in position, replace and tighten the bolts to attach the thermostat housing to the engine.
Remove the thread if you had to use some.
Push the radiator hose onto the thermostat housing.
Tighten the hose clamp
Refill wit coolant. If the coolant in the bucket is clean, use that. If not, refill with fresh coolant, using the proper mix of water and antifreeze. (Yes, you need anti-freeze in the summer. It raises the boiling point, reducing the risk of a boilover.)

Remove: wheel, brake caliper & rotor. Drive out the remaining stub with a hammer and punch. Insert a new stud and pull it into place by tightening the lug nut. Before running out of threads, remove the nut, insert a stack of washers or a large nut which slips over the threads without contacting them, tighten the lug nut to seat the stud.

thermistate housing is the place you refer to it fuction is to hold a thermastate to open and close water flow at 150 to 190 degree according to car spectif the thermaste sticks it causes overheating and can blow the thermastate gasget, the tole cost is about 30$ at most for the thermastate and gasget...now many other things can cause a car to over heat and cause a hose leak and somtimes it is simple to just tighten the hiose clamp at the thrmastate and problem sovled see a water leak causes the radiator to lose presure and thus with out a sealed tight water cooling system the boiling point of water is lower and thus the car over heats when in doubt stop by the local gas station and have a tech take a quick look as it could be simple as the hose clamp difficult as a therm,astate but do not let it go to warp a head gasket as this blown headgasket is what is the end results of running a car to hot

can you email me a picture of the area ur talking about? blue_dragon45801@yahoo