Change steering column on 98 f150

Fun job. I have done hundreds of those. WHY Ford put a steel pin in that cheap piece of plastic is beyond my comprehension. However, it has kept me employed :)

Anyway, did you remove the two T-30 TORX pins that go into the tilt head? They are what the tilt head pivots on.

If you have those out and it is still not coming off of the shaft. it is probably because the bearing cone is still in there.(under the spring and clip you removed) There is a stamped-steel ring that kind-of looks like a "top hat" that the spring seats on, then under that, there is a cone ring with a split that fits down into the upper bearing. (If you don't remove these, the harder you pull up on the tilt head, the tighter the cone ring will crush into the shaft and say "FORGET YOU! I AIN'T MOVIN'!!!")
These will come up and off of the shaft with a small screwdriver or pick. Then the tilt head will come off.

Then you are only halfway there. (I hope you have the column removed from the vehicle, because you will need to if you don't.) The column has to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get that !%#$ thing in there. The shaft has to ome out of the lower housing, the ignition switch, shift tube, shiftlock actuator and all that good stuff has to come off. Once all this is removed, you must fight the little pin that the lock pawl pivots on. It is pressed into the aluminum housing and can be a real bear to get out. (putting it back in is easy) Only after the lock pawl has been removed, will you be able to slide the ignition actuator up far enough to hook the little pin into the slot that it goes in. Then you have to get it all back together.

Good luck!

Steering columns are indeed spring loaded. The tilt mechanism contains the spring. If the upper part of your column can be pulled down towards the 7 o'clock position and it then springs back up to level then the pivot pin holes in the housing are probably worn to an oval shape. At this point you have a few options. First, you remove the column and disassemble. Have the pivot pin holes line reamed to round. Then have bushings made to go in the holes. They will need to be made .002-.003" over the size of the holes you reamed up. Then freeze them and press them into the holes. Reassemble the column.
You could also purchase the upper column pieces that have the pivot pins in them. They run about $500-$700 IF you can find them. These parts will eventually wear out also (cheap cast aluminum) Or go all out and buy a whole new column (usually over $1,000) The busing option is going to be the cheapest (especially if you do it yourself) and your bushings will be made of steel and will last forever.

It sounds like the shift tube bushings are worn out. There are usually 2 u shaped clamps that have nylon bushings that hold the shift tube to the steering clumn. If loose, that throws off the shift position, could be btween 2 gears at once, and throws off the park - neutral safety switch. Fix that first.


Item Part Number Description 1 14A664 Air Bag Sliding Contact 2 3530 Upper Steering Column Shroud 3 3518 Steering Column Bearing Sleeve 4 3517 Steering Column Bearing 5 3511 Steering Column Lock Cylinder Housing 6 13K359 Multi-Function Switch 7 N808114 Pin 8 N805857 Steering Column Release Lever Pin 9 3D544 Steering Column Release Lever 10 3F609 Tilt Wheel Handle and Shank 11 7361 Column Shift Selector Lever Plunger 12 7210 Gearshift Lever 13 3D657 Steering Column Shaft 14 7B071 Transmission Control Selector Lever Plunger Spring 15 7G357 Gearshift Lever Pin 16 7212 Transmission Column Shift Selector Tube 17 N806582 Tilt Column Pivot Screw 18 7C464 Transmission Control Selector Lever Spring Clip 19 7E400 Gearshift Tube Bushing Clamp 20 - Spacer (Fixed Column) 21 3E729 Steering Shaft (Fixed Column) 22 3F527 Lever Assembly (Manual Transmission) 23 3F530 Pin (Manual Transmission) 24 3F752 Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid 25 7335 Gearshift Lever Socket Bushing 26 7A216 Transmission Shift Selector Position Insert 27 7302 Transmission Selector Lever Arm and Support 28 7E395 Shift Cable and Bracket 29 7210 Gearshift Lever 30 3E691 Steering Column Shift Lock Pawl 31 7W441 Gearshift Lever Pin 32 3676 Steering Column Instrument Panel Bracket 33 3D681 Steering Column Lower Bearing Retainer 34 3517 Steering Column Bearing Sleeve 35 3L539 Steering Column Bearing Tolerance Ring 36 3C674 Steering Column Lower Bearing Spring 37 3C131 Sensor Ring 38 3518 Steering Column Bearing 39 N806423-S56 Steering Column Retaining Nuts 40 14A163 Wiring Harness Retainer 41 3F723 Steering Actuator Housing 42 3B663 Steering Column Lock Lever Pin 43 11572 Ignition Switch 44 3D655 Steering Column Position Spring 45 3D653 Steering Column Locking Lever (LH) 46 3B768 Steering Column Position Lock Spring 47 3B662 Steering Column Locking Lever (RH) 48 3E715 Lower Steering Column Lock Actuator 49 3E696 Steering Column Lock Spring 50 3E691 Steering Column Shaft Lock Pawl 51 3E723 Upper Steering Column Lock Lever Actuator 52 3E695 Steering Column Lock Cam 53 3D656 Steering Column Tilt Flange Bumper 54 14A163 Wiring Harness Retainer 55 391727-S304 Shroud Screws 56 3530 Steering Column Shroud 57 3E717 Steering Column Lock Gear 58 3E700 Steering Column Lock Housing Bearing 59 3C610 Bearing Retainer 60 11582 Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder 61 3L539 Steering Column Tolerance Ring 62 3520 Steering Column Upper Bearing Spring 63 3C610 Snap Ring

Slop in the actual steering wheel is a result of either bad bearings, universal joints, or the brackets that hold it together. Take the covers off of the column and you should be able to see what is wrong with it.

The "clock spring" is a slang term used to describe the round electrical contact below the steering wheel inside the steering column, that transfers the switch contacts in the steering wheel to the actual vehicle. Your problem is more than likely the bearing in the top half of the steering column. Disconnect the battery and remove the air bag and steering wheel nut, steering wheel, and electrical switches, then look at the mechanical bearings or bushings at the steering shaft and case unit, the problem should be visible at this point. Hope this helps, let me know.

Remove steering wheel (steering wheel puller required). Remove lock plate (lock plate depressor tool required). Remove turn signal screws, pivot and 4 way flasher button. Remove 3 #50 torx screws and loosen upper lock housing cover. Remove lower duct from dash--(not fun) by removing 7mm (9/32 head screw. Wiggle the vent around until it comes out. There is a clip that attaches to the lower shift bowl that controls the position of the shift indicator. Don't forget to slide this off or you will break the cable! Remove the 15 mm nuts that attach the steering column bracket to the dash. Remove the wiper delay module from bracket. Remove the 4 13mm head screws attaching the bracket to the column. Remove plastic sleeve holding wires to column. You may not have to disconnect any wire connectors if you have clearance. If you need to disconnect t/s switch, note how it is attached into its holder on the steering column. Now, back at the top of the steering column. Lift the key buzzer out. The retainer will probably stay in place until you remove the cover. Watch for it when you remove the cover. Its black, made of spring steel and is folded in half. Next, use a # 20 torx driver to remove the ignition lock cylinder retainer screw. Remove cylinder. Take both hands and pull cover far enough so that it can hang free and out of your way. You will find a spring with a silver head w/ a square hole. Make sure the column is in the full up position. Just take the tilt lever and pull towards you and the tilt will go into the full up position. Take a #2 phillips and insert into the square hole, push down and turn counter clockwise. Remove the cap and the spring. Take the little plastic lever that will have grease on it from the tilt area and set it to the side for now. This lever controls the bright lights and is known as a high beam actuator. Next--remove the spring from the upper shaft. Remove the bearing retainer by inserting an awl into one of the holes on the retainer. If you don't get this off at this time, no big deal. Then you need a couple of 10x24 threaded hardened screws. You will need to take a **** or wire cutters with something the can be pivoted on such as a wrench (or a Snap-on pivot tool remover) and thread into the pivot screws. You need to pull these pivot pins out! Once the pivot pins are removed Tilt the bearing housing upward and with both hands a Little to the left. Br careful because the ignition lock rack (toothed) with a loop around the ignition lock cylinder actuator rod.

Upper or lower column bearings probably worn.

your steering column has a plate with 4 inverted torx fasteners I believe they are e8 fasteners, you must remove the upper tilt flange to gain access to these bolts , a few special tools will be needed : Pivot pin puller , steering wheel puller , lockplate depresser to name 3. the job takes about 1.5 hours to complete. hope this helps a little.

Hi,

This is the most common problem with this type of steering column and it becomes loose by using the steering wheel to get in and out of the car. The answer here is general and there will be some slight differences as it pertains to your car.
I have been asked where to get a good blow up drawing of the column and the problem is that even the service manuals don't tell you all you need to know.
You will need to purchase or rent at a parts store a steering wheel puller. A lock plate compression tool and a pivot pin removal tool.

Good luck!

I don't know of a good blow up. Commonly factory service manuals will have you take apart things that are not supposed to come apart. The bearings are most likely not the problem but the 4 yoke bolts are. They commonly come loose by grabbing the steering wheel to get in.
Remove the horn pad (7 mm or 9/32 either will work on the back of the steering wheel. Push downward on cancel cam tower and turn counter clockwise. The horn wire is now disconnected. Remove 13/16 steering wheel nut. Index marks may be hard to see. Take a screwdriver and put on upper shaft and tap. Put adjoining mark on wheel if these factory marks can't be seen. It is for reassembly and so that the steering wheel is put on the way it was taken off. Never use a hammer on the upper shaft to remove steering wheel!Install puller using 2(2) 5/16x 16 x 3 bolts. Draw the wheel off. Install rented lock plate removal tool. Note the position for reassembly. Compress lock plate down and remove snap ring by holding one side with a flat blade screwdriver. Insert an ice pick awl at the ring opening and bring upward. Remove lock plate. Take note for reassembly that lock plate only fits one way om the splines. There is a matching broach (Tooth missing on lock plate and spline missing on shaft. Pull off cancel cam and upper shaft spring. Take a small Phillips and push in on the 4 way flasher and unscrew. Hold together while unscrewing so it does not fall apart on you. Take a Phillips and remove the turn signal screws and the turn signal pivot. Pay attention to how this pivot slides in the groove of the wiper switch.

Here comes the fun part____


Remove the screws from the panel under the steering column.--- The shift bowl is located where you shift the transmission. Below the bowl leading under the dash is the lower shift bowl shroud. On the passenger side of the shift bowl under the dash will be a clip and string. Remove the clip by pulling it off the lower bowl shroud. You are doing this so you don't wreck the PRNDL.
Under the dash remove the (2) 9/16 nuts that hold the steering column bracket on. Remove the (4)1/2" bolts that hold the bracket to the column. Underneath the dash on the passenger side of the steering column will be a plastic sleeve holding the wiring. Pull away from column and the downward. Don't worry about the gray thin shroud. That's just for the cruise wire which when putting back together can be installed in the main black plastic shroud.
Push upward on turn signal wiring from its column bracket. You may no have to disconnect any wiring. Go back to top of steering column. Remove (3) #2 Phillips screws. Make sure keys are not in ignition lock. Take hook tool and grab edge of key buzzer and pull upward. Steel retainer spring will fall out for key buzzer when you remove upper cover. Watch for it. Its about an inch long, doubled up piece of black spring steel. Set to side when you get that far. Next remove the ignition lock cylinder by inserting a screwdriver into the clip at the rear of the lock inside the steering column. Pull lock out. Pull upper cover upward and let hang by wiring. You will find at the tilt lever there is another part to the upper cover. Look for a piece of white plastic with a circular end that slides on the inside of the cover (left side). This is called the high beam actuator. Leave the tilt lever and end cap attached. Tilt the bearing housing to full upward tilt. Insert a Phillips into the square hole in the tilt spring retainer cap. Push down and turn counter clockwise. Grab spring and retainer and remove.
Insert pivot pin tool on passenger side of column. Now, once you have screwed the tool into the pivot pin, do not over tighten. Hold the screw head with 3/8 wrench. Use ½ open end to draw nut down. If it seems like the pin is seized tilt the column up and down a couple of times. Usually there is not a problem, but trust me, you don't want to break the puller off in the pivot pin. Repeat on left side. Hold your foot on the brake. Pull on tilt lever while with tilting in upward position, go a little left and remove housing. The ignition actuator rod will become disconnected with the rack. The rack has a loop on one end and teeth on the other. Set it to the side. Do not let the upper shaft fall downward. It could fall off or the little shaft inside could fall out. You will see (4) inverted torx bolts. Some people will remove one at a time and install locktite. I have never done this and have never had one come back. Its up to you. If you intend to use the steering wheel for getting in and out of the car you may want to use locktite.
Now, you do not need a special socket here. Use a ¼ nut driver with both hands and tighten. Then use a vice grips, wrench, whatever you can to tighten these bolts. They are tight enough when the socket starts to slip. Do not tighten any tighter than this. To install the rack insert a screwdriver into the slot of the geared sector on the left side of the bearing housing. Rotate sector far enough where you can slide the rack in. You need to line up the big tooth in the sector to the big tooth opening in the rack. Once this is done pull the spring towards you either with your fingers or needle nose and insert spring into slot on sector. Take the ignition actuator rod on the left side of the column and pull until dash lights come on. Make sure it is set into the groove. Grab the bearing housing with both hands. As you are getting close to the steering column you need to take the loop from the rack and put it over the end of the ignition actuator rod. The high beam actuator rod that is bent outward goes through the big hole on the left and let it just hang. Once looped around pull on tilt lever and install bearing housing slightly tilting up and down once attached. Insert pivot pin. Insert other pivot pin. Insert bearing race, retainer and spring on upper shaft. Hold the spring downward with one hand and tilt the column up and down with other hand. This helps center the race and it also checks the tilt. Next, take a needle nose and turn lock shaft on right side of bearing housing. Engine should start. Put shaft in lock position. Hold the spring on the upper shaft while tapping on pivot pins till flush. Put in full upper tilt and install tilt spring. Push downward and push cap with screwdriver downward and turn clock wise till seated.
Under dash on driver's side of column you will see high beam switch. The rod fits in the center of this switch. Back at the column to make sure the high beams work, push on the rod. You will hear a clicking. Take the high beam actuator and insert it into the groove in the cover. Make sure circular end is facing towards the lever. You need to slide this actuator all the way forward. When looking down the rounded end should be facing downward towards the floor. You will see where this cover rests on the bearing housing. Hold cover up against housing by the tilt lever. With the other hand insert the upper cover back on the column. As you are doing all this pull on the wiring from under column. Line up lock pin in cover. Take an awl to line up high beam actuator with cover. Cover will lie down on column once lined up. Hold cover downward and pull back towards you the turn signal lever to make sure high beam switch works. Pull wires at bottom of column gently accept for turn signal. Inert three # 50 torx. Insert ignition lock cylinder and retaining screw. Take awl and push button up from lock cylinder from key buzzer hole. Insert key buzzer spring to key buzzer. Squeeze and insert into hole and push down. Install turn signal switch and pull wires at bottom of column gently where turn signal switch lines up. Insert three screws. Line up ball from turn signal pivot into wiper switch groove, line up with t/s hole and insert screw. This screw has a wide head.
Install 4 way flasher. Install cancel cam as you marked it for disassembly. Install lock plate. Wheel has to be lined up with the index marks. Install. Insert horn wire into cancel cam tower and press down on cap and turn clockwise. Install horn pad. Under dash install plastic wiring shroud. Reinstall t/s connector on column. Install bracket. Attach steering column to dash. Hold the brake. Put trans in neutral. Pull on string and install clip so PRNDL says neutral. Put trans in PARK. Start engine. Check PRNDL when putting in drive. You may have to adjust clip's position to get this lined up. Install lower dash.