I have a 92 jeep cherokee, 4L, 6 cyl, 4wd, 5 speed. Started having problems few months ago getting it into first, (no noise just resistance) and grinding in reverse. Had the clutch line flushed. This fixed problem for about a week. It was indicated that if that didn't resolve the problem, it could be slave cylinder. Since then, I've been able to drive by pumping clutch several times before putting in gear. Last two days however, extreme resistance in first, second and sometimes third. Even had to start in second gear, as it would not go into first whatsoever. A friend suggested it could be a sensor? It hasn't popped out of gear, and I am not losing clutch fluid. Although, RPM's fluctuate at odd times when clutch is engaged.
Typically i hear it running high when i am downshifting from second to first, when clutch is engaged. Odd, because sometimes i am at a red light, full stop, and it is idling high.Typically i hear it running high when i am downshifting from second to first, when clutch is engaged. Odd, because sometimes i am at a red light, full stop, and it is idling high.
Typically i hear it running high when i am downshifting from second to first, when clutch is engaged. Odd, because sometimes i am at a red light, full stop, and it is idling high.Typically i hear it running high when i am downshifting from second to first, when clutch is engaged. Odd, because sometimes i am at a red light, full stop, and it is idling high.
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Leaky slave cylinder - Pretty much without a doubt.
If at first it wont go into gear, bring up the clutch, press down again and retry - the clutch isn't fully disengaging and 1st gear is not on synchro so it's pretty much impossible to slot it in if the input shaft of the gearbox is turning -
the RPM fluctuation, does the engine speed change or is it just the tachometer that is moving around?
If its running a bit high like that then make sure the accelerator cable is running smoothly in the sheath and not sticking a little, also make sure it isn't adjusted too tight, there should be a little slack in the cable - enough to let the throttle fully close but not so much that the throttle cant be fully opened - EG, when you've adjusted the cable have someone check that when you floor the gas the throttle fully opens and reaches the stop.
The clutch slave cylinder is the right thing to suspect since you have to pump the pedal and the high idle is completely unrelated to the clutch, that is almost definitely a sticking throttle or throttle cable.
If its running a bit high like that then make sure the accelerator cable is running smoothly in the sheath and not sticking a little, also make sure it isn't adjusted too tight, there should be a little slack in the cable - enough to let the throttle fully close but not so much that the throttle cant be fully opened - EG, when you've adjusted the cable have someone check that when you floor the gas the throttle fully opens and reaches the stop.
The clutch slave cylinder is the right thing to suspect since you have to pump the pedal and the high idle is completely unrelated to the clutch, that is almost definitely a sticking throttle or throttle cable.
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Hi, if when you put it into gear and you lift your foot off the clutch then if your engine revs up without the actual power going to the wheels like when you say the revs change this indicates that your clutch is slipping, i wouldnt say their was a problem with either the cylinder master or slave and i wouldnt say it needed flushing out the problem you are having it that your clutch is slipping due to it being to low.
You need to get the clutch replaced sooner rather than later due to the fact that if your clutch plate shatters due to it being running on the rivets and not the actual clutch plate then this can cause the clutch to collapse and this will then cause damage to the master and slave cylinder and if you was driving at the time you would have no clutch at all and the car would be stuck in gear and you wouldnt be able to tow it as it would be stuck in gear.
You need to get the clutch and pressure plate the thrust bearing changed this will then solve your problem.
let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok
hi could you try putting it into second gear with the clutch down to the floor then rev the car up and release the clutch whilst the hand brake is on if the car stalls strait away then the clutch is ok if how ever the car dont stall the revs drop down before stalling then this indicates the clutch is gone and needs replacing.
let me know what happens ok
hi could you try putting it into second gear with the clutch down to the floor then rev the car up and release the clutch whilst the hand brake is on if the car stalls strait away then the clutch is ok if how ever the car dont stall the revs drop down before stalling then this indicates the clutch is gone and needs replacing.
let me know what happens ok
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I'm having a problem with my tranny not wanting to shift automatically at all. Seems like a dead stop its stuck in low gear. Have to manually shift and does not go into overdrive. I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Can anyone help me cause I've swiched out throttle control sensor, filter change, new tranny cooler and heavy duty lines. I'm at a loss and scratching my head. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
With any 4WD like this, always move a few feet in the opposite direction when disengaging. If you were moving fwd in 4wd, switch to 2wd, back up a few feet, then go fwd.
I love driving 4x4 jeeps, especially in 4-wheel drive. First, a list of when you should and should not use 4-wheel drive.
2x4 Hi is for normal driving in most weather and anytime you are driving over 50mph.
4x4 HI is for getting you unstuck from mud or snow and can be used up to 50mph but is not recommended for much faster. It is only designed to get you moving and unstuck, it will NOT make it any safer to drive faster on slick surfaces like rain, snow, or ice. Always drive slower on these kinds of surfaces.
4x4 lo (low) is for extreme 4x4 driving like trail riding and mud bogging to get over steep inclines and deep mud without burning up the clutch. 4x4 lo should never be used to drive faster than 25-35mph and should only be used in off road situations.
Neutral (on the 4x4 shifter) is mainly used if you are towing your jeep with any of the wheels on the ground. It completely disengages the transmission from the drive train so you can tow it without damaging the trans.
Now, to shift from one to another. My jeep may be different than yours and I haven't driven my jeep in a while (I had to sell it) but it should shift the same way.
First, make sure you are parked and the wheels are not moving. Put the main gear shift (5-speed) into Neutral, hold down the clutch and move the selector from 2x4 to 4x4 by first pulling the shifter to the side then moving it up or down. Some jeeps (especially older ones) may have a wheel lock on the outside of the wheel hub (AKA hub lock). This must be in the "LOCK" position for 4x4 and "UNLOCK" for normal 2x4 driving. Make sure it is fully engaged in the slot before shifting into 1st. Then you can drive normally, following the guidelines above.
The regular 5-speed transmission will shift just the same as before but you will notice that the jeep will drive much slower in 4x4 lo and it will have much more torque for those really sticky situations.
Good luck! Have fun! And if you do plan on doing some real 4x4'in or mud boggin' make sure you buy a winch for the front of your jeep or bring a friend who has a winch on their truck to get you unstuck from the worst of the worst! Don't forget to rate!
P.S. if you have problems with one or more 4x4 settings you can always shift back to 2x4. Make sure that if you are driving on the highway or in normal driving conditions, you are always in 2x4.
P.P.S. If you are near the Columbia, MO area send me a PM, I'd love to find some new friends to do some 4x4 driving with in the area so I can get back into the sport. I miss it.
Look for damaged wires, or something bent, on the Auto Disconnect Device on the front axle before you do anything else. The 4WD HI light is not coming on because the front diff is not engaging.
Re 4 LO: In 4 LO, you ar NOT getting "4 LO", what you are really getting 2WD LO, because of the output gearing of the transfer case.
In any case, your front diff is not locking in, in either mode. The A.D.D. controls the 4 Hi lite.
Typically i hear it running high when i am downshifting from second to first, when clutch is engaged. Odd, because sometimes i am at a red light, full stop, and it is idling high.
Typically i hear it running high when i am downshifting from second to first, when clutch is engaged. Odd, because sometimes i am at a red light, full stop, and it is idling high.
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