No spark on a 1996 vw jetta

the fuel pump and timing belt are not components for spark did you check distributor- points -coil -plugs-wires ignition switch -fuses and relays ----didnt specify engine if diesel need to check glow plugs

2000 vw jetta not starting problem solved - YouTube

? 1:56
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvXOynOHywY
Sep 21, 2012 - Uploaded by STF MASSACRE MEDIA
i was on this for days ordered fuel pump accessories i didnt even need and the whole time was a fuse dat regulates to the fuel injectors and gasoline well i ... ... Volkswagen Jetta Won't Crank, Electrical Diagnosis - Part 1 - Duration: ... Duration: 4:05. ...Anyone Have This Problem Starting Their VW Jetta?

VW A3: No Spark Quick Check... - YouTube

? 4:05
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-uxkgveK7M
Oct 7, 2012 - Uploaded by Thomas EXOVCDS
The first part just shows that the hall sensor in the distributor is not. ... VW Jetta No Start - Duration: 4:59. canadacatalyst 51,287 views ... Rabbit & POLO - No Spark at plugs but will bump start - MYSTERY SOLVED! ... VW Jetta won't start? ... 4:05. Ignition Coil Troubleshooting VW 2.0L Golf Cabrio - Duration: ...

VW Jetta No Start - YouTube

? 4:59
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2lDVCMCNo
Nov 15, 2011 - Uploaded by canadacatalyst
Just go through the basics to see why it will turn over but not start. ... Good diagnosis and repair of catalytic converter on theVW Jetta. ... not start. i believe the fuel pump went bad from sitting long time. no pressure! ... VW Jetta won't start? ... VW A4: 2.0L Replacing Crankshaft Position Sensor / Engine Speed ..

I would check for spark on the ignition coil and the spark plug. If no spark, check the power and signal to the ignition coil. The ignition coil large wires are 12volts power and the other three is a signal to electronic firing circuit from ECM. Testing the power is easy, for testing for trigger signal, use a 12v LED test light.
12 Volts test:
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoil.jpg
Signal test:
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoilharness.jpg

I gave you more than you should need

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause.

b) We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive ).If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Remove the starter and have it bench tested to verify.
a) If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck

So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, neutral safety switch ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables, ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charge the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery is more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit.Do not forget neutral safety switch its on your brake pedal and once depressed it closes the circuit to the relay so B+ can travel to it . Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. IN YOUR CASE YOU HAVE NEW PLUGS AND WIRES SO IT WILL BE EASIER TO CHECK FOR SPARK.If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair .THERE ARE FUEL PRESSURE AND VOLUME TESTS DONE TO VERIFY IF PUMP IS DEFECTIVE OR NOT. IF WITH THE TESTING PROCEDURES I'VE GIVEN YOUYOU CAN NOT DETERMINE WHETHER THE PUMP IS DEFECTIVE HAVE A REPAIR SHOP DO FURTHER TESTING ON THE PUMP. THESE TESTS ARE A LITTLE DANGEROUS and a real pain.
Good Luck

check for a spark at the plugs if you dont have this then you will need to check that the ingintion coil has a live feed and and earth the pins 1 and 3 on the conector if you have this then you will need to check that you have a pulse from the hall sender this is in pin 2 of the conector check it with a circuit tester and the led should flash if it does then the ignition coil has had it if not then check for a live and an earth at the hall sender ( three pin plug on the distributor ) pins 1 +3 if this is ok you will need a new distributor also worth checkin for a live at both of these with someone cranking the engine if you loose the live feed under cranking the you will need an ignition switch

Yes. First, in the fuse block under the hood check INJ A fuse and INJ B fuse. INJ A fuse is circuit 1039 which feeds the coil. If the fuse is OK, replace the coil electrical connector. I stock 2 of these at my dealership because they are needed quite often.
FYI P1351 is an ignition coil control circuit DTC.

did you check to see if fuel pump is pumping. fuel filter isnt clogged is it? but you're sure there is no spark. because if there is spark it could be air flow problems.
and you changed the ignition switch so that's not it, how about the starter. is there any noise coming from the starter when you turn key? if it isn't lined up right.
there has to be spark if you did what you said take off a wire at night and try it . electricity to start goes, ign switch battery starter(is there a relay on s10s cant remember), the alternator is here also.to coil/distributor to wires to plugs to gasoline

also it could be the wires coming from the battery , check them for corrosion. if they are really corroded could be problem. and make sure your ground is good contact. ive seen corrosion inside wires causing no spark.
just a few ideas to check.

Replace thye Ignition Switch.;