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Brake sensor. It tells transmission, brake is depressed and allows you to shift out of park. Or check with diagnostic computer, free at some major retailers. Most likely a sensor, if not transmission may be bad.
Lets start at the beginning. The turn signals and brake lights use different fuses but both go thru the turn signal switch and use the same bulbs. Have you checked the fuses for each circuit and does each switch have power in and out ?
Hi, sometimes the simplest of things can become complicated by omiting the theory of how a circuit works,
The brake light switch is merely a break in a live wire, some cars are constant live, and others rely on the ignition switch being turned to the on position for the supply to work.
You mention you have checked the above have you checked you have 12 volts at the feed wire at the brake light switch, no voltage should be rectified by looking for a secendary fuse or break in the supply, if you have 12 volt supply at the switch,next with the switch disconnected, join together both wires this will allow you to eliminate the switch, if the brake lights illuminate then the switch would be considered faulty, if it does not light move your testing to the rear of the car, at the switch you will observe the colour of the wire feeding the rear brake lights, at the rear of the car observe the wire and check for 12 volts, if not present check for break in wire, sometimes the wire can become damaged in tailgate rubbers etc where amooving part may trap or fracture the wire, it is. Most likely that this is the problem when more than one light does not light , as the rear lights and indicators are working we can assume the earthing to the light is correct, hope this is of help to you paul
OK. Several ideas. The 760 is really a 740 with a fancy body. Start with the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Use a short jumper with two alligator clips to bypass the switch. If the brake light works, bingo!
A good substitute for the jumper is a cheap 12 volt test light from AutoZone or Sears. Clip one end to a good ground, and probe for voltage with the sharp tip. If the bulb lights on one side of a switch, you have 12 volts coming in. If you activate the switch and there's not 12 volts on the other side, the switch is suspect. Check the fuse. The fuse functions are labelled on the iunside of the ash tray door. Check the @#$%^@# bulb sensor in the relay rack behind the ash tray. It's the big, round red relay in the rear left position closest to the firewall. Failure there can knock your brake lights out. A used one fetches about $10 on ebay. I always carry a spare. You didn't tell me if all the brake lights are out, or just one. If they're all out, it's a systemic problem. One out, it';s usually a bulp or bad socket.
You have no power when the parking lamps are on. Do the front parking lamps work? If the front parking lamps work then you have an issue with the rear wiring. Use a test light to verify you do not have power at the sockets.
Check the brake light switch located under the dash, connected at the junction where the master cylinder rod connects to the brake pedal. Remove the connector and with a short piece of wire, paper clip works fine, insert into the two terminals on the connector. Check to see if your brake lights are on. If they are, your switch is bad.
this is going to sound stupid, but check your tail lights and brake lights for a dead bulp (lamp). this could be the cause, and will be VERY cheap to fix!
When this happens the problem is most likely the multi-funtion switch aka turn signal switch. Check to see if the 3rd brakelight comes on when the brake pedal is pushed. If so replace the MFS. The 3rd brakelight in late 80's fords bypasses the turnsignal switch.
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