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89 suburban. No spray from injectors after replacing ESC
1989 chevy suburban 5.7 TBI. No spray from injectors after replacing the ESC. A few weeks ago the truck died on me for the first time ever. When I started it, it idled terrible, it would rev up and then down and almost die. Put it in gear and it would die. Replaced plugs, wires, pcv, dist cap & rotor, fuel filter. Checked the fuel pump, it is operating and pressure is 10.5. Suspected vacuum leak, and check all the lines. Everything looks ok, can feel plenty of vacuum. With it idling (roughly) I tapped the ESC with a wrench and it suddenly started idling perfect. Opened the throttle and it sounded great. Shut it off and it wouldn't start at all! No gas to the injectors. Replaced the ESC. Still no gas. Removed the intake line and verified that gas is getting to the TBI but no spray from injectors. They were working fine before replacing ESC.
My mechanic tested it and said it was at 10.5, and said that the acceptable range was 9-13. Maybe he is full of it, but thats kinda a moot point now. Injectors had full spray one minute, replaced ESC module and now none...not just poor spray..none at all.My mechanic tested it and said it was at 10.5, and said that the acceptable range was 9-13. Maybe he is full of it, but thats kinda a moot point now. Injectors had full spray one minute, replaced ESC module and now none...not just poor spray..none at all.
It was the map sensor. Replaced the CTS first, no change. Replaced the Map Sensor and it fired right up. Still not running right though, no power at higher rpm.It was the map sensor. Replaced the CTS first, no change. Replaced the Map Sensor and it fired right up. Still not running right though, no power at higher rpm.
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Re: 89 suburban. No spray from injectors after replacing...
The fuel pump should be in the 20s. Also it could be losing presure slowly. Leave the fuel pump pressure gage on for at least 2 to 3 hours to see if it is losing pressure - It's a start
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if is the TBI 350 (5.7L), anything from about 1989 to 1995 should be alright, give or take a few sensors. i have owned an 89 suburban, a 90 suburban, and a 95 suburban, and the all have the same motor.
Could be a problem with the pickup coil in the bottom of the distributor if equipped. The pickup coil provides the crank signal for the injectors and ignition module. Did you clear the code and then 53 came back ? On most models code 53 means the computer or one of the components is getting over 13 volts.
for a swap like that a chilton book would cover info for both motors and they cost under 20 bucks. just saying it beats the hell out of guessing at it or taking some schmucks advise from the internet. since your old 5.7 had TBI im hoping the 454 your swapping it with is also a TBI, if not your best bet would probally be to convert to carb but your going to need to replace the fuel system as the 2 high pressure lines that ran the TBI wont work with a carb. if it is TBI your going to need the ECM that came with the 454 as the 350 one is just going to "get confused" and have issues. Since your rig has an older ECM you can remove the Electronic senders and replace them with manual ones to simplify everything ( i have an 89 chevy i built a rat 355 for so ive been through this before) . without knowing exactly the year of the 454 thats about all i can think of to watch out for on that swap, i hope your not trying to mate the 454 to a 4L60, your going to need at least a 4l80 with an upgraded sun shell gear or a heavy duty manual ( at least 10 spline and 12 inch clutch).
Assuming your engine is in good mechanical condition, there are only a few options.
1. You may have a vacuum leak. 2. The pickup in the distributor may be worn to the point that it is sloppy at idle but normal at higher rpm. 3. Idle control valve/motor may not be working properly.
It probably isn't an ignition related problem as the problem would normally get worse as RPM increases. I've seen #2 about 5 times in the past year or 2 so it's not uncommon and would recommend replacing the entire distributor if you come to that conclusion, but would definitely check all vacuum hoses first.
to be honest, with an 89, all you can do is replace the injector. how an injector works is there is a small amount of current that is run to a coil around a rod (if you are unaware, this produces magnetic fields). the magnetic field produced pulls up what is usually a small ball, allowing fuel to go through the tip of the injector nozzle. all you can do to fix this is to buy different injectors.
just a question..why do you think they are spraying too much fuel? because it may just be that you have excessive fuel pressure and your fuel pressure regulator is bad. hit me back.
Sounds like the knock sensor has failed. It's on the passenger side at the bottom of the engine block, in front of the starter. One wire going to it. Have you checked the timing lately, maybe it has moved?
My mechanic tested it and said it was at 10.5, and said that the acceptable range was 9-13. Maybe he is full of it, but thats kinda a moot point now. Injectors had full spray one minute, replaced ESC module and now none...not just poor spray..none at all.
It was the map sensor. Replaced the CTS first, no change. Replaced the Map Sensor and it fired right up. Still not running right though, no power at higher rpm.
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