SOURCE: Electrical problems with trunk gas door and ac
the first problem with you fuel door is most likely the rear actuating motor or cable. remove the right rear trunk lining, and loosen the 2 silver phillips head screws, and remove the actuating motor. i would suggest replacing both the motor and the cable, as both of these parts have superceeded to a new improved part. the AC problem is caused by a faulty fan control unit. this part not only receives the switch signal and processes the information to control the compressor, but also controls the fans, their speed, the compressor,and the hi/lo pressure switch. both of these parts a a common problem for the beetle.
SOURCE: No Power to blower motor
chk. to see if you got a heater resister. if no resister. maybe a relay somewhere around blower motor, somepeople call them breakers others call them relays. ford uses alot of fuseable links but i dought there would be any under dash.
SOURCE: Blower on the heater/AC not working on 1998 Escort, checked fuse under dash?
Ok, first off, check the fuses under the dash. If they're all good, does the blower work only on high speed? If yes, then you have a bad blower motor resistor, which is located under the hood, near the blower motor itself. If the motor doesnt work at all at any fan speed, make sure the wiring harness that plugs into the motor under the hood is clean and tightly installed. If it still doesnt operate, sometimes tapping on the blower motor housing will kick it on, but if that doesnt work, you may have to replace the blower motor. They are available aftermarket, and arent usually too expensive.
SOURCE: Heater Blower won't work
There was a bulletin reguarding water contaminating the blower motor, which overheats the blower resistor and renders it inoperative. The fix was to replace the blower and the resistor and seal the culprit hood cowl screw at the base of the windshield, which is the second screw from the passenger side. They say water drips off of it down into the fresh air opening.
Here's what I'd do: Assuming your switch and blower motor is good, replace the blower resistor. Remove the blower motor and see if it spins without any excessive drag. If it's okay, reuse it. If it's dragging, it will overheat your new resistor in a short period of time and you'll be back at square one. The blower resistor is mounted to the front of the case with 2 screws to the left of the blower motor. Remove the glove box and you'll see it.
The Hood cowl screw is straight down into the cowl, the second one from the right side, about 10-12 inches from the right fender. Pull it out, put some sealer on it, and reinstall it.
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